Review: Kenoza Hall

Why book?

Opened in 2020, Kenoza is the crown jewel in a network of hotels operated by Foster Supply Hospitality that shine a light on the wooly wonders of Sullivan County and the western Catskills. Occupying a historic, rambling, early-20th-century boarding house with extensive grounds (including a swatch of woods and a stretch of lakefront), an excellent restaurant, and a first-rate spa, it’s a genteel way to soak up the rustic, still-somewhat-untamed beauty of this area.

Set the scene

Around a bend on State Highway 52, a gabled Victorian mansion rises up among the woods. When the weather is warm, diners enjoy breakfast on the covered porch and attached gazebo, and the hotel will host special themed dinners on the bluestone patio out front. Inside the main building are several charming common spaces, including a large, game-filled living room with generous windows where my son discovered and fell in love with chess. The crowd is comprised mainly of professionals of all ages from New York City and other urban centers in the northeast.

The backstory

Framed black-and-white photos near the bar tell the building’s early history as the Kenoza Lake Armbrust House, one of the many boarding houses that opened during the early heyday of the Catskills to cater to weekenders from the city. Later, it became a private residence. In 2017, Sims and Kirsten Foster of Foster Supply Hospitality acquired the property, and in 2020 opened it as a hotel that honors the region’s heritage as a vacation destination while mixing in a modern sensibility. That mission extends to the set of chic bungalows that debuted in 2021, a nod to the summer cabin communities that were once ubiquitous throughout the Catskills.

The rooms

The 22 guest rooms in the main inn are comfortable, though not huge. All have great views, some of nearby Kenoza Lake, and large soaking tubs; some have porches. From the sinks to the wall sconces, there are elegant details that summon the building’s Victorian roots. The 10 minimalist but rustic bungalows are more generously proportioned, with gas stoves and private porches with swings. Room rates start at $309 per night.

Food and drink

The thoughtful and personable chef de cuisine Oscar Vargas has crafted a menu around what he calls old world continental cuisine with a strong emphasis on seasonal ingredients and local purveyors. That adds up to very tasty, lovingly presented takes on the classics—trout almondine (which I had one night and enjoyed immensely), steak Diane, oysters Rockefeller, an iceberg salad—served in a long, handsome room with a view of the lake; or, in warm weather, al fresco. Vargas has been very focused on creating a culinary beacon for area residents, not just weekenders and hotel guests. That comes across in Kenoza’s approach to the bar, located just outside the restaurant, in the very heart of the house, which, with its dark tones, exposed wooden beams, and handcrafted latticework, really does feel its age. The menu includes classic cocktails with some seasonal variations, a playful wine list, and a fondue-heavy assortment of bar snacks.

The spa

The hotel’s Hemlock Spa follows the principles of the 19th-century German doctor Sebastian Kniepp, an early hydrotherapy pioneer and advocate of holistic healing. It’s structured around a greenhouse-style lodge available to guests anytime, even without a treatment booking, which offers a barrel sauna, a cold-water bucket shower, and a Kniepp walking path, which connects you to nature by allowing you to experience different natural textures (pinecones, moss) on your bare feet. There is also a generous yoga studio, and a hot tub and swimming pool just beyond the building.

The neighborhood/area

Considering that Kenoza lies just a little over two hours from New York City, it is surprising how relatively free the region is from the bougie masses who descend on towns like Woodstock and Hudson each weekend. The hotel is a short drive from the cute Delaware River towns of Narrowsburg and Callicoon, as well as the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts. Summer or winter, nature lovers have no shortage of activities to choose from.

The service

Warm, friendly, and informal. Much of the staff grew up in the region, so a conversation with them is a great way to find out more about Sullivan County.

For families

The hotel is incredibly welcoming to families. Kids will find a lot to do on the property, from the games in the main inn to the canoes waiting down on the banks of Kenoza Lake. The area, which is less busy and less gentrified than the eastern reaches of the Catskills closer to the Hudson, is very family-friendly, especially in the summertime, when there are ample opportunities for hiking, cycling, tubing, fly-fishing, and more. The recently added bungalows are a better option for a group that wants to stay together than the rooms in the main lodge, which are a bit smaller.

Eco effort

As at all of Foster Supply Hospitality’s properties, Kenoza avoids single-use plastics, including straws and bottles, opting for refillable containers for all guest amenities. FSH is also a solar-powered company, obtaining its electricity from a local solar farm. None of the products in the spa or elsewhere on site contain parabens or sulfates. Most of the furniture is hand-crafted from family-owned and -operated factories utilizing natural materials; the hotel also seeks out eco-minded suppliers, like In2Green, its source for all of its blankets and throws. Kenoza also works with FSH’s nonprofit sister organization A Single Bite, which seeks to address hunger and food insecurity in Sullivan County, on minimizing food waste.

Accessibility

There's one fully-ADA-compliant room in the main building.

Anything left to mention?

From guided hikes through the woods in back and outdoor movement classes in summer to tapping maple trees and going ice skating on the lake in winter, Kenoza offers a host of fun seasonal experiences. Be sure to ask what’s coming up next when booking.