Review: Angama Amboseli

Why book?

Setting up residence in a land of giants, a bold new camp with big ideas promises intimate encounters with some of Africa’s last super tuskers.

Set the scene

Gazing up at the snow-dusted peaks of Africa’s highest mountain Kilimanjaro, the camp arcs around a fever tree forest close to the border between Kenya and Tanzania. Belonging to 844 families, the Kimana Sanctuary is a community-owned conservancy, a 30 to 50-minute drive (depending on road conditions) from Amboseli National Park. It forms a vital corridor for migrating elephants, often seen grazing as they slowly wander towards the Chyulu Hills and Tsavo East National Park.

Search for some of Kenya’s last big tuskers on game drives or return to camp and find them nibbling on trees outside tents or siphoning water from a communal infinity pool. At night, village lights from surrounding communities twinkle at the base of the mountain, a reminder of the growing pressures of human and wildlife co-existence which forms an important part of Angama Amboseli’s conservation story.

The back story

Following the success of their property in the Mara, this is family-run Angama’s second project and first real foray into conservation. Working alongside NGO Big Life Foundation, they lease land from Maasai farmers to provide a safe passage for elephants passing through an area under threat from agriculture.

Angama’s founder Nicky Fitzgerald fell in love with the location after flying over it on a light aircraft and immediately recognised the potential for some of the best views in Africa—a signature for both Angama’s properties.

The rooms

Fanning from a communal dining area, ten tented suites (sleeping 20) all have views of Kilimanjaro and are set far enough apart to maximise privacy. Every aspect of the design has been inspired by elephants. Grey tones reflect their colouration, while curved shapes—from the coffee table through to the toilet—take on their rounded form. Even the adobe-style walls are partly made with dung.

A corridor links the bedroom with a large bathroom, where you can shower on a veranda amidst a forest of fever trees. Leave the screens open to wake up with a view of Kilimanjaro, forever coyly shifting between the clouds.

Food and drink

A rainbow-hued selection of fresh ingredients forms the basis of a la carte dishes available in a main dining area—although meals can also be served in suites. Packed lunches are prepared for visits to Amboseli. Butlers can also arrange for a selection of curated drinks to be available in the suites.

The spa

For now, massage therapists can set up temporary treatment areas in private suites—on the wooden decking or inside the spacious stone bathroom. An infinity pool, in view of Kilimanjaro, is the place to relax while watching elephants. There are also plans to build a gym.

The neighborhood/area

Guests have exclusive use of the Kimana Sanctuary, meaning there’s never any risk of crowding at sightings. Elephants, giraffes, and warthogs regularly pass through the camp. Over time, more wildlife is expected to return. Game drives are also possible in Amboseli National Park, a 30-minute drive away along a new road sharing part of the elephant’s pathway. Elephants and cats roam the grasslands while marshy areas and lake present excellent opportunities for spotting up to 400 bird species.

The service

Most of the hospitality staff were recruited from the local area as part of the conservancy agreement with local communities. Trained by Angama’s team in the Mara, many are still finding their feet. But even if service, for now, isn’t always polished, smiles and enthusiasm make up for any shortfalls. Every guest suite is assigned a butler who can fix rooms and arrange wake-up calls.

For families

The camp has two sets of interconnected suites for families, joined together by a corridor to maintain privacy. The butler’s lobby can also be converted into a small bedroom for triplets. Child minding is included although many activities are suited to families and game drives can be arranged to fit bedtimes. A dedicated games room has been kitted out with books, films and board games. For teens, it’s possible to rent a camera and sign up for courses in the photographic studio. In a weaving workshop, all ages can sit with Maasai Mamas and learn how to make a piece of jewelry or a basket.

Eco effort

Conservation underpins every activity at Angama Amboseli: funds from guest stays will contribute to the creation of local schools, members of the community have been upskilled and employed, and the camp itself protects an ancient elephant migratory path.

But hospitality is the camp’s key priority. There are no cards in rooms pressuring guests for donations and guides adopt the role of storytellers rather than preachers. Visits to the Big Life HQ can be arranged for anyone keen to learn more. A small museum on site also shares information about the challenges of human/wildlife conflict and management of the ‘pinch point’, where wildlife are funnelled into protected areas and away from farms.

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments

The closest guide suite to the guest area has been specially designed with accessibility in mind. Modifications include rails and ramps, a roll-in shower and shower seat. Furniture can be removed and a pathway to a vehicle drop-off point has been clearly marked.

Anything left to mention?

Taking the sting out of early starts, Angama offer pajama safaris, allowing guests to watch the sunrise and sneak back into bed for a few hours.