Review: Chelsea Townhouse

Why book?

Tucked away in a residential part of Chelsea, this townhouse turned bolthole is designed to feel like a home away from home, even offering guests access to that most prized of London’s residential perks—a private communal garden belonging to the Cadogan Estate.

Set the scene

My taxi driver got completely lost trying to get me there—his exact words: “There’s no hotel around here.” Chelsea Townhouse sits on a row of near identical terracotta-brick townhouses on a particularly quiet side street just north of Sloane Square, and there are few indications it’s a hotel, save a couple of flags flitting about in the dark. A doorman rushed out when we eventually pulled up, guiding me past a discreet entrance and into a charming lobby with the markers of old-school gentility: polished black and white flooring, ornate crown molding, and a sweeping staircase. Antique-style oil paintings line a corridor that leads to an intimate dining salon on one end and a small library room with a cushioned bay window and a crackling fire on the other. The 36-key property is rather cleverly stitched across three Queen Anne-style houses via hidden corridors and concealed doors, and the intimate scale of its layout makes it easy to forget you’re in a hotel. I was reminded of it the next morning, when I encountered the other guests, well-dressed and considerately soft-spoken, relaxing over papers, poached eggs, and coffee before heading out into London’s swirl.

The backstory

The newest addition to the Iconic Luxury Hotels collection, which includes Cliveden in Berkshire and Chewton Glen in New Forest, Chelsea Townhouse is its third London property after 11 Cadogan Gardens and The Mayfair Townhouse. Housed in what was formerly the Draycott Hotel, the property has undergone an extensive transformation, replacing the prevailing air of antiquity—think heavy furnishings, intricate wallpapers, and chintz—with neutral-on-neutral decor, elegant mid-grey walls, and modern amenities. Much like its London siblings, Chelsea Townhouse offers a striking counterpoint to the slew of large luxury hotels that have opened in the city more recently—a discreet, comfortable brand of luxury without the extra frills.

The rooms

Two words: garden suite. If you want to make the most of what this hotel offers, stretch for one of the suites that are open-plan, filled with light, and have direct access to the garden. True to theme, some suites are named after famous botanists like 18th-century garden designer Humphry Repton, while others pay homage to the early gardens that graced the neighborhood like Ashburnham Pavilion. The rest of the rooms range from cosy rooms—perfect for solo travelers—that are just as charming to apartment-style interconnecting rooms for families that include a kitchenette. No matter the room, expect to see velvet headboards, pleated silk lampshades, old botanical prints, and vintage furniture repurposed from the old Draycott days including mahogany leather-topped desks and freestanding cheval mirrors. Oldy-worldy it may be, but old-fashioned it is not—and there are all the contemporary comforts you’ll need, from Ruark radios to espresso machines and chic, well-appointed bathrooms. Not to mention very comfortable beds designed for lingering. Did I mention how quiet it is once you’ve shut the door behind you? Pin. Drop. Silence.

Food and drink

The hotel has a dining salon that isn’t a traditional, full-fledged restaurant but offers plenty to sustain you between the hearty breakfast (eggs, cereals, fruits, pastries) and an all-day eat-anywhere menu with standouts like crispy halibut rolls and ham croquetas. In warmer months, you can take your lunch under the mulberry trees in the garden, a cooling bev in hand. Keep in mind that last orders are at 9:00 pm, with dinner served until 9:30. Still, on my first night, after a long flight and facing a general disinclination to step back out into the cold, I requested an after-hours cheese toastie that was graciously delivered fireside with a hefty pour of Sauvignon Blanc. For the less inert, Hans Grill, a modern British restaurant in sister property 11 Cadogan Gardens, is just a hop, skip, and jump over. A few steps beyond, Pavilion Road beckons, a pedestrian mews street with several independent restaurants and bars like Granger & Co. with cool Sydney café vibes and The Sea, The Sea, an intimate seafood bar with a daily changing menu of dishes. A few doors down, the Ottolenghi deli has a very gawkable dessert display, so walk away at your own peril. Further out into Chelsea and Kensington, glossy cocktail bars abound, but as you make your way back to this snug sanctuary for the night, you’ll be ever glad for it.

The area

Being so tucked away from London’s buzz, whilst still in the heart of it, is exactly what sets this property apart. The hotel can feel like such a cocoon that it’s easy to forget that the best that SW3 has to offer is right at its doorstep. The slew of eateries at Pavilion Road are just a stone’s throw away, and the hotel is a short stroll from the design shops and boutiques of King’s Road and Sloane Street. If culture is more your vibe, The Saatchi Gallery is around the corner, and both the V&A and The Natural History Museum are a pleasant walk away (or one stop away on the District line). But the truth is, you’re never too far from much, so whether you’re visiting on business or pleasure, the hotel is well positioned to get you where you need to be.

The service

The hotel comes with a small but engaged staff, from the front desk manager who greets you with a “welcome home” when they check you in, to the dining room server who remembers how you like your eggs cooked and how many espresso shots you need to wake up, and the concierge who has the best local recommendations like tricks up his sleeve. In general, the service here is gentle and unfurls at your pace, striking a balance between friendly and discreet.

For families

In addition to the apartment-style connecting rooms that are perfect for families, a stone’s throw away sit The Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens—six apartments each comprising an entire floor of a townhouse and ideal for families intending to stay longer (although they can be booked for as few as two nights at a time).

Accessibility

While there is an elevator that offers access to the majority of the rooms, the property is not entirely accessible as there are quite a few stairs.

Anything left to mention?

Less known is that guests of Chelsea Townhouse have the use of the cleverly appointed gym at 11 Cadogan Gardens around the corner (private trainer available on request). If you’re more likely to sidle up to a bar than sprint on a treadmill, the Chelsea Bar, with its low lighting and sultry palette, stays open late and will happily churn out cocktails to match your mood.