Review: Son Vell Menorca

Set the scene

Son Vell is at the western end of Menorca, about an hour from the airport in Mahón and 20 minutes from Ciutadella. You approach the property through a maze of drystone walls – characteristic of the island – above or between which you catch glimpses of a gently undulating agricultural landscape that shows few signs of development that are so conspicuous on its sister islands, Ibiza and Mallorca. When you finally arrive at Son Vell, your view no longer impeded by walls, the picture changes instantly. Looming out of the fields is a handsome 18th-century Italianate villa in stone the colour of clotted cream, surrounded by olive and fig trees, holm oaks, chestnuts, palms and luxuriant formal gardens (some of them walled, it is true, but these walls are quite low).

The backstory

Son Vell is the second property to open under the Vestige brand. Vestige is owned by the Madera family: husband and wife Victor and Maria and their four daughters, the eldest two of whom, Marta and Claudia (recent graduates in their early 20s) are actively involved in the business.

The first Vestige property was Palacio de Figueras in Asturias, northern Spain, which opened as an exclusive-use rental in 2022. The Maderas bought it in 2011 to fix it up as a holiday home for the family. However, once they got stuck into the renovations, they discovered an enthusiasm for the process that quickly turned into a mission – to acquire other at-risk properties of historical or architectural significance and secure their future. They now have 25 such places across the country, 12 of which will open as hotels, the rest for private hire.

Son Vell was the first hotel to open in July 2023. Half a dozen more are due to follow in reasonably short order, in various parts of Spain, including several in Menorca. If Son Vell is anything to go by, the arrival of Vestige is nothing but good news and marks the beginning of an exciting period for the Spanish hotel scene.

The rooms

There are 34 rooms; six in the main house and 28 in five separate single-storey bungalows. Those in the home vary more dramatically than those in the bungalows, thanks to the quirks in the floor plan and proportions of the old building itself. Neutral-toned textiles and limewashed timber beams complement the creamy stone beautifully and do well-judged contemporary metallic accents. The views from the upper storeys are delightful – you can see for miles, over treetops and gardens, across fields to the stony coastline (in one direction) or more of those good old stony walls (in the other).

Food and drink

Outstanding. There are two restaurants, Vermell (indoor) and Sa Clarissa (outdoor), as well as three bars, one in the main house (make a point of stepping into the little snug in the corner – and then look up), the others by the two pools. Supper at a table outside in the last of the daylight as the stars come out, with a gentle breeze and the fountain plashing away – is profoundly agreeable. Excellent seafood, as you would expect, but also roast suckling pig of quite diabolical deliciousness, and a citrus pudding identified as L’amor de les tres taronges, which is Catalan for The Love of the Three Oranges, but untranslatably moreish.

The spa

Still, a work in progress at the time of the hotel’s opening, though in-room treatments and certain wellness activities, including yogalates were already available on request.

The neighborhood/area

Menorca is a relatively small island – an hour’s drive from end to end, and you are seldom more than 20 minutes from a beach or cala. But the character of the landscape and coastline varies considerably. On the same day, at the same moment, the sea may be wild in the east might and glassy calm in the west, or vice versa. Son Vell has its own cala, which is a convenient point of departure for exploring the coast by boat (generally the best way to go about it). You can also pick up the Camí de Cavalls, the bridle path that traces the perimeter of the entire island, for a stroll or a ride. The nearest town of any size is Ciutadella, the island’s original port, steeped in history and charm – not to be missed.

The service

As warm and uplifting as a Menorcan sunrise. The concierge team can organise activities and outings – private boat charters and sunset riding along the Camí de Cavalls, archaeologist-led jeep tours of the island, and visits to traditional cheese- or shoe-makers. They are also a fount of wisdom when it comes to the island’s beauty spots and historical sites – Menorca has more beaches than Ibiza and Mallorca combined, as well as some of the most significant prehistoric monuments in the Balearics, so their guidance and local know-how can be hugely helpful. That said, there is plenty to do at Son Vell itself – just cycling around the estate is a joy, as is nursing a glass of something interesting while gazing up at the night sky and listening to an astronomer enthuse about the heavenly bodies.

For families

Great for families with children who are past the danger-to-themselves-and-to-others stage and, therefore, able to participate in the multitude of outdoorsy activities available on- and off-site. Less good for wee tots – no kids’ club or round-the-clock childcare is on offer. There are, however, games and films in the lounge area in the main house and colouring-in books and children’s menus in the restaurants. There are two two-bedroom suites, two rooms that can be connected to make a larger suite and 15 rooms with sofa beds.

Eco effort

Commendable and thoughtful – as you would hope of a brand whose focus is, in a sense, on grand-scale recycling, through the restoration of neglected or at-risk properties. The use of repurposed local sandstone at Son Vell is a good example – natural, appropriate, sustainable, and beautiful. Also conspicuous at Son Vell – and an integral part of the interior-design scheme – are soft furnishings and rugs made from natural fibres such as linen, jute, silk and cotton, all using chemical-free dyes; an absence of single-use and virgin plastics; and bedroom and bathroom amenities in recyclable containers. Extensive vegetable and herb gardens will, as they mature, supply more and more kitchen ingredients; the provenance of fish and meat is generally very local and indicated on menus or by helpful restaurant staff.

Accessibility

Menorca, in general, and its rocky calas, represent a challenge to the mobility impaired. Son Vell itself is generally much more accessible. One bedroom is fully adapted for disabled guests, located close to communal areas of the hotel, which are almost all at ground-floor level. A lift within the main house gives access to the upstairs bedrooms. Four adapted toilets in communal areas and ramps can be provided wherever necessary.

Anything left to mention?

Don’t leave the island without paying a visit to the Hauser & Wirth gallery on Illa del Rei, near Mahón. The art is good, the setting gorgeous and the restaurant terrific.