Review: Silky Oaks Lodge

Why book?

Australia has always done beaches and rugged outback well. But when it comes to experiencing its ancient rainforests and wet tropical jungles in style, there have been surprisingly few options—until now.

Set the scene

Planted in the Daintree Rainforest (the world’s oldest living rainforest) and on the Mossman River, Silky Oaks Lodge is a tranquil jungle escape. Tangled in thick greenery of ancient sky-scraping trees, the lodge is populated by platinum-haired retirees, multi-generational families celebrating milestones, and thirtysomething up-and-at-em couples in smart RM Williams boots and lots of linen.

When not hiking, swimming in the gin-clear billabong, floating down a river rapid, kayaking, or exploring the nearby Great Barrier Reef, you’ll find guests slowly meandering around in the sticky heat. But one of the choice activities is simply lying in hammocks, the natural scent of ylang-ylang heavy in the air, listening to the chorus of birds and cicadas, and watching fluttering bright-blue butterflies. If you're lucky, you'll see a platypus waddling near the billabong or river. A more likely sight, though, are native critters like lizards and possums scampering around.

The backstory

Originally opened in 1985, this rainforest retreat has recently undergone a $20 million facelift and reopened under new owners, husband and wife James and Hayley Baillie, the duo behind Baillie Lodges with a portfolio of immersive luxury lodges in the most pristine corners of Australia: Lord Howe Island (Capella Lodge), Uluru (Longitude 131°), Kangaroo Island (Southern Ocean Lodge), The Louise (Barossa Valley), and now the Daintree Rainforest. In 2021, the rainforest was returned to its traditional First Nations Kuku Yalanji custodians in a historic hand-back ceremony.

The rooms

You won’t be blinded by marble or shiny surfaces here. Instead, each of the 40 rooms across six categories have been designed to smoothly blend into the landscape with smooth timber and floor-to-ceiling windows that open to private decks looking over the river or rainforest. Some rooms have outdoor fireplaces, al fresco free-standing baths, and large decks, and all are airy, modern, and deeply comfortable.

If you want your jaw to drop, book the lofty two-bedroom Daintree Pavilion with its own infinity pool and spa, surrounded by unspoiled rainforest every which way. It feels like you’re suspended in a secluded treetop home. For something more modest but equally special, book a Treehouse Retreat—if only for the outdoor stone tub. There is nothing quite like a moonlit bath with the living jungle as a backdrop.

Food and drink

All meals are served in the breezy open-air dining room. Overlooking the gushing river and dense forest, it feels like you’re dining in the canopies. A sustainable approach to the menu means a majority of the produce has been sourced from local suppliers, if not grown and plucked from the massive on-site chef’s garden (an old tennis court). Due to the tropical climate, the native and endemic bounty like lotus roots, Vietnamese mint, betel, pandan leaves, and dragon beans translates to a pan-Asian menu featuring mee goreng, duck yellow curry, char-grilled steak with Szechuan sauce, and hibachi pork belly. Much like the dishes, most of the cocktails use tropical spirits spiked with zingy local ingredients like wattle seed syrups and finger lime.

The spa

The spa is wonderfully calm and understated, much like the rest of the property. It’s a lovely place to unwind and recharge using botanicals, natural earth clays, and flower and plant essences from the area.

The neighborhood/area

Located in a rainforest rumored to be nearly 180 million years old, with tumbling streams and billabongs, and adjoining the World Heritage Daintree National Park, this is a jaunt into Australia’s wet tropic land. There are various nearby walking and bike trails where you can white-knuckle it up rocky terrain or take it easy through swathes of cane fields. (On Saturday, make sure to pitstop at the local Mossman Gorge markets.) River safaris will take you down the rapids of the Mossman River, pass wetlands and gnarled mangroves where you’ll see rare river fish and turtles under cathedral-like canopies. There are also First Nation-guided tours through the Daintree Rainforest, Mossman Gorge, and Cape Tribulation, teaching the ways of the Kuku Yalanji people. Plus, a 90-minute drive and boat ride will have you underwater at the inner fringes of the colorful Great Barrier Reef.

The service

The staff are on-hand to help with whatever may be needed—convivial and switched on, but not waiting-on-your-every-move intrusive. You won’t have to carry your own bags, favorite cocktails will be remembered, and itineraries will be organized. If your day starts before breakfast at 6.30 a.m., breakfast hampers will be delivered to your room and picnics organized.

For families

The lodge caters to children aged 10 and up.

Eco effort

Admirable. There are no single-use plastics, all bath products are locally made and refillable, tour operators and food suppliers are plucked from the local community, the kitchen is low-waste, and the whole lodge has been designed with open-air communal areas, like the dining rooms, where fans are used instead of air-conditioning. There is an on-site sewage and water treatment plant, pulling and treating water directly from the Mossman River.

Accessibility

Not really. Some rooms are accessible, but the draw of the resort is exploring and walking and making your way through unmanicured jungle to get to the rivers and through the rainforest.

Anything left to mention?

The river and billabong are crystal-clear and so fresh that, even in the tropics, a wetsuit is necessary. Also, if not exploring the rainforest, you will probably be underwater—reef, river, billabong, or waterfalls—so a dry bag and underwater camera case would be handy to capture the adventures. For those who want to take it easy, there is a lovely communal swimming pool.

Finally, in 100 words or less, what makes this hotel worthy of Hot List?

Exploring Australia can feel like a daunting task. But the deeply comfortable Silky Oaks Lodge puts the untamed rainforest, river, and reef all within easy reach, making you feel like part of the delicate ecosystem.