Review: La Roqqa

Why book?

This hotel is single handedly turning a lesser known stretch of Tuscany’s coast into a chic seaside destination to rival the country’s more known resort towns, but without the crowds.

Set the scene

Tuscany’s Porto Ercole is an interesting spot, with built in exclusivity due to a hard to reach location on a quiet bay. But the area has history, with an old town dating back to the Etruscans and a tranquil port that hums to life each morning with fishing boats. La Roqqa has opened with a Negroni-hued facade overlooking the small harbor, like a halo of sophistication and cool on this once-sleepy village. With its high design, beach club and scenery rooftop, La Roqqa is set to become a hive of beautiful Italians and in the know travelers who want the sexiness of the riviera without the masses. Exclusivity is the key, here.

The backstory

The Swedish Jonsson family spent their summers on the nearby Argentario Island. When the opportunity came to buy a faded hotel in the town, they jumped at the chance, recognizing the potential to redefine the old place and the destination they love. The family spent three years completely renovating the space, partnering with Milan’s Palomba e Serafini to create a restrained, contemporary space with bold features including a chic spiral staircase connecting the entrance to the mezzanine. But the family know that to create a scene on the Tuscan coast, there needs to be reasons for chic locals to come in, too. Sirocco restaurant has a star chef and the nearby beachclub could single handedly turn Porto Ercole into a destination.

The rooms

“Intelligent minimalism with Italian flair,” is how I would describe the rooms, with their plump white beds, red wine colored walls and ample sunlight illuminating the space through the floor to ceiling windows (that open onto water-facing terraces). Chic details like a closet carefully laid out with beach needs like La Roqqa tote bags and sandals and luxury Ortigia bath products are thoughtful touches. Larger suites have smartly-placed divider screens that are chic and practical, and are done up in pastel green walls and sleek furnishings. The rooms feel like an extension of the overall hotel design and ethos. The lobby is thoughtfully curated with local ceramics, and pops of color. Turquoise tiles like those found in the large bathrooms top tables in common spaces. And designer chairs in pops of color throughout channel the greens and reds found in the guest rooms. Sea facing suites have views over the harbor and terraces set up with chairs and tables for watching the boats glide in and out. The whole place is a study in breezy, contemporary sophisticated which feels right besides the sea.

Food and drink

Chic, chic, chic! The rooftop restaurant and bar is the hotel’s calling card. It is one of two places that will help this hotel become a chic social hub for the type of client you may normally encounter up the coast at the legendary Il Pellicano. The rooftop’s palette is consistent with whats below; lots of deep reds, navy blues and whites. Checkered tiles top the tables and throughout the far side are couches to settle into with negronis and martinis served with tasty upscale snacks at aperitivo hour. It feels extremely elevated, set the back drop of the boats bobbing on the harbor below, which is precisely the point. But the adjacent restaurant, where tables spill across an indoor dining room and outdoor terrace, is the main event up here. Scirocco, named for the wind that blows through the Mediterranean from the Sahara, is a celebration of all things local including produce and absolutely seafood. Chef Francesco Ferretti is master of capturing flavor vis a vis delicate cooking techniques and fresh ingredients. I don’t eat octopus, but I insisted on seconds of his lightly roasted local pulpo, that may as well have been plucked from the floor of the sea visible from my seat. And the knock out dish is the tomato pasta which features a selection of local grown tomatoes prepared a number of ways, all cooked with al dente spaghetti. This is a destination restaurant that happens to be attached to a hotel, not the other way around.

The spa

There was no spa when I stayed, but there were plans to add one in the coming year.

The neighborhood/area

Porto Ercole has several natural sights including a nearby lagoon, hiking trails and the old town, close to the hotel which has plenty of trattorias and shops.It is nice that this is not yet a resort hot spot, because the quaint town is not overrun with souvenir stalls and overpriced coffee bars. It is still very much the essence of itself, and won’t close up for the season, which suits La Roqqa which plans to stay open year round to allow travelers to enjoy the different dimensions of the destination. Rome, too, is just one and a half hours away. The coast on this part of Tuscany is a little wild, but wonderful for swimming, and guests have access to the boat for excursions to nearby islands and morning swims off secret coves. It is a true highlight so do not skip it.

The service

Impeccable. The hotel assembled a mega watt team with backgrounds that read like a who’s who of travel, having worked in places like the Armani hotel in Dubai. All are Italian, though, and bring their experience of high end international service to this supremely, destination-Italy property. It is a knock out combination.

For families

Families are welcome here but with the absence of a pool it feels better suited to adults.

Anything left to mention?

Saving the best for last: There is no pool, which is important to know, but there is the Isolotto beach club just five minutes walk from the hotel—which is reason enough to stay here. An assemblage of beige umbrellas, terraces of loungers, two restaurants and astute staff ferrying cold wine and coffee between the chairs, it is the epitome of quiet luxury. The food is high end, think raw tuna and avocado salads, fresh grilled fish, minerally Tuscan white wine.