Review: Pemako Punakha

Why book?
Pemako Punakha is the first high-end Bhutanese-owned and operated property in a scene-stealing corner of the kingdom that has drawn the likes of Aman, Six Senses and, most recently, andBeyond. Tucked away among 75 lush acres of hillside dreamed up by the iconoclastic hotel designer Bill Bensley, this property straddles a forest, Buddhist heritage, local folklore, and cultural traditions along with conscious luxury and splendid views of the Eastern Himalayas. This is a sanctuary to slow down, immerse yourself in nature and quietude, and leave city life far behind.

Set the scene
Set in the magical Punakha Valley, east of Thimphu, Pemako Punakha is in perfect sync with the place and its history. Drawing on design cues from the Tibetan dzong fortresses of Bhutan and legends of the region, this is a hotel that is perfect for families, world-weary execs, solo travellers and allows you to retreat from the city hustle and immerse yourself in the slow Bhutanese way of life. The name Pemako translates to“the hidden lotus land” and refers to a fabled Tibetan beyul that must be entered through a sacred waterfall. The motorable road ends a little after the magnificent Punakha Dzong, the region’s iconic 17th-century fortress and a wooden footbridge across the Mo Chhu River leads past a ‘waterfall’ installation to a series of buildings in the wooden, sloping-roofed Bhutanese vernacular style. The whole place unfolds in layers, like the whorls of a lotus across the entire hillside and the real-world Pemako cues its mythical counterpart in every corner. The spiritual and temporal worlds coalesce even further as a lama offers prayers at the onsite temple and ties a sacred thread on the wrist of guests as part of the welcome ritual.

The backstory
Pemako is the second opening in quick succession from Pemako (the first was in the former Taj Tashi in Thimphu), a new brand owned by Dasho Wangchuk Dorji, chairman of Bhutan’s largest private conglomerate, the Tashi Group. This property is a milestone for Bhutan’s hospitality industry and there’s a tangible sense of national pride around it. Here Bill Bensley’s trademark storytelling meets high-end luxury and an aesthetic rooted in Bhutanese culture. From temple tours to traditional wellness treatments, local food and immersive walks and experiences, everything channels Bhutan’s traditions and its Gross National Happiness.

The rooms
Twenty one tented structures are scattered across the hillside in neutrals and khakis, that seem to disappear into wild forested hills where rhododendrons, pine and jacaranda trees bloom. The property was designed with minimal felling and each villa was plotted with the topography in mind. Some have up to three bedrooms and a private deck complete with an outdoor barbecue setup and a dining area, making it perfect for families and groups of friends. All come with a private heated pool and a spacious deck for views over the Mo Chhu, the mountains and the forest. A palette of orange, yellow, black and white carries across furnishings, ceremonial battle helmets and sculptures of yaks and mythical beasts. With local art, Serge Ferrari fabrics, custom-made lamps, and freestanding copper tubs, there’s a sense of Bensley’s trademark storytelling, but it feels a touch more reverential than in some of his projects—and perhaps rightly so, given the vista framed by every window. Each tent comes with a private butler service and a buggy to take guests around the property. While all the villas are private, some are ensconced in a thicket of trees as a perfect hidden retreat. Ask for the villa right near the top of the hill for unmatched views of the valley. Remember to try the local Druk beer stocked in the mini-bar along with the selection of herb-infused waters that are placed in each room.

Food and drink
The dining areas are set up across three beautifully designed buildings which extend the lore of the legendary Pemako with their artwork and architecture. All-day diner Soma offers a spread of global cuisine with an excellent selection of inhouse breads and bakes. Try the Southeast Asian bowls for some warm comfort on a cold day or simply settle down with a coffee and a book on the deck to revel in the valley, the river, and the mountains. For dinner, head over to Alchemy House, a restaurant housed in a heritage home which existed on this land much before the hotel came up and has been restored with great care, keeping its traditional design and rustic kitchen intact. The food served here is a celebration of local Bhutanese produce and recipes and winds through several courses featuring local greens, fiddlehead ferns, lentils, vegetables, yak meat curry, stir-fried dried pork with turnips, a fiery and warming ema datshi (local cheese mixed with fiery red chilli), all eaten with helpings of the nutty Bhutanese red rice. The gorgeously lit Five Nectars Bar, one of the property’s most stunning structures, is perfect for a sundowner or evening cocktails with the best vantage over the river. Try their locally inspired craft cocktails with herbs, fruit and spices from the property. Below the bar is a private dining area complete with a chef’s table. The property is expansive enough to set up meals under the pine trees or riverside. There is a designated picnic spot complete with a dining room and terrace nestled amid tall pines where the staff can set up a special meal for an entire group. Remember to inform the kitchen about your heat threshold so that the chillies don’t come as a surprise.

The spa
Days and nights at Pemako are soundtracked by the soothing sounds of birdsong, chirping crickets, and the gurgling river. This is a place to revel in a stillness of being, whether that is on a walk by the river, a moment inside the glass-walled meditation room, or simply watching the sky fill with stars from the deck of a villa. For more targeted wellbeing, an onsite Bhutanese expert in traditional medicine will assess your ailments and prescribe the right set of remedies. The story of the mythical Pemako plays out across all offerings—five of the herbs associated with the land have been distilled to their nearest real-world approximations and are infused in the drinking water as well as treatments at the Lotus Realm Spa. A traditional hot stone bath has a similar medley of herbs and promises renewal and relief in equal measure.

The neighborhood/area
Punakha Valley sits at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, a startlingly beautiful corner of Bhutan, east of Thimphu. The former capital of Punakha remains a thriving preserve of Bhutanese culture with the town as the administrative centre of the entire district, and its magnificent dzong as the fulcrum of both spiritual and material worlds. . This commingling of realms is all around and Buddhist lore and customs percolate through the valley with hillsides festooned with prayer flags, memorial chortens, and little tsa tsa shrines dedicated to lost loves and myths of the Divine Madman, gurus, and dragons painted on to doors, homes and walls. The Mo Chhu River apart from providing a stunning backdrop to morning yoga and evening sundowners is also perfect for beginners who want to try their hand at white water rafting. That apart, Pemako’s extensive grounds have trails enough to explore and guides can take you to the Punakha dzong through scenic mountain paths.

The service
Pemako’s Bhutanese context is evident as the local staff (as well as the wonderfully cheerful Austrian GM Christiane) are all wearing the traditional national dress of gho and kira. Many are from the Punakha Valley itself and they are always at hand to talk to you about the vagaries of weather, local news, and stories. All the villas at Pemako have their own personal butlers who are always at hand to drive you up or down the hill and manage your schedule during your stay.

Eco effort
The Bhutanese respect for nature extends across the design of the whole property as the forest has been kept wild and undisturbed with Bensley’s biophilic designs and minimal construction. Apart from the common dining and wellness areas, and its surrounding gardens, the rest of the hillside exists as it always did with centuries-old pines and fruit trees. The native flora has been maintained and they thrive as do the local fauna that continue to thrive. The sustainability effort extends across the hotel with rainwater harvesting, onsite sewage and waste treatment plants, reduction of single use plastic for all amenities and partnerships with local farms and suppliers.

Accessibility
The property is not accessible by wheelchair due to the topography and its location which is reached by crossing a footbridge.

Anything left to mention?

While there, definitely try and visit local artist Asha Kama who lives and works out of the nearby village. His custom-made works are displayed across the property including a beautiful triptych, in which the mythical geography of Pemako is mapped as the body of a sleeping goddess. Pemako also enlists guides who accompany guests on excursions to the Punakha Dzong and the Chimi Lhakhang temple, offering insight into the land, its people and their myths and legends.