Review: Our Habitas Atacama

Why book?

In Chile's otherworldly Atacama Desert, the adobe casitas of Our Habitas create an intentional oasis for slowing down after long days of adventure.

Set the scene

Less than 10-minutes on foot from San Pedro de Atacama's main (and nearly only) drag, Caracoles, Our Habitas Atacama is a grown-up alternative to the backpacker hostels nearby, while still feeling younger and more accessible than $2,000/night lodges like Tierra and Explora on the outskirts. It's not an untapped section of the hotel spectrum—where brands like Relais & Chateaux also find a luxe medium—but the Our Habitas ethos draws its own crowd. There are a lot of couples, but also a handful of solo travelers: some are on the new-age wellness track, booking time in the temazcal and slowing down with massages and desert-herb body scrubs; others are high-octane go-getters, hitting breakfast early before long days of mountain biking, geyser chasing, and wildlife seeking. Everyone seems comfortable navigating the wine list at night, and appreciative of chances to interact with local culture through live music at dinner and monthly pool parties open to the town.

The backstory

Our Habitas has taken over what was previously the Altiplanico hotel. The skeleton is the same—adobe walls, thatched roofs, decor rooted in the destination—but the rooms have a top coat in the form of elevated interiors and furniture, and the programming (from the restaurant to wellness center) is pure Our Habitas. There's a focus on sustainability and living well; half of the menu is plant-based, for example, and daily workout classes are included in a stay. You'll be invited to set intentions through a brief coca leaf ceremony on arrival, and yes, that's palo santo you smell. It's easy to see why travelers might want to follow the brand to properties in destinations that likewise strike a balance between gorgeous, adventure-inspiring natural settings and a slower pace of life (think Bacalar, Mexico; Agafay, Morocco; Santa Teresa, Costa Rica).

The rooms

Like many hotels in Atacama, the rooms are made of adobe that blends into the surrounding desert, and topped with thatched roofs—woven details also appear on lampshades, raffia placemats, and rich textiles hanging on the walls. The largely neutral tones allow a few colorful, artisan-made details, like hand-woven llamas that cover a wall, and altiplano-style pillows in the lobby, to jump out. This crafted feel extends to the room design as well—hardly any are the exact same, but categories make it clear whether you'll be able to, say, enjoy an outdoor shower in yours. A few things to keep in mind: Pioneer rooms are smaller, but newer; Explorer rooms are largely original, if you were an Altiplano fan with a favorite room (113 is known for having a little extra space, but I like the 112 layout best); and some of the 200 through 300 rooms are certainly further from the pool, whether you use that intel to ensure a shorter walk to common areas, or to really retreat from everyone else. Rooms start at $300 per night.

Food and drink

I really appreciated the emphasis on plant-based dishes on the menu, and was gratified when they turned out to be the highlights. The vegan carpaccio, made with pickled broccoli stems as a base, is incredibly refreshing on a hot day. The seemingly simple cachiyuyo salad which was bursting with flavor thanks to local-style goat cheese, those same broccoli stems, and a dressing made with desert herbs (I had to resist ordering it on repeat). The prices skew American—you might spend the equivalent of $15 on that salad, $20 on chicken, or $30 on the hake for dinner. On the whole, I was very happy to eat my fresh meals in the hotel before adventuring out, and the included breakfast is fantastic (don't miss the prebiotic shots, or the fresh juices), as are desserts that spotlight local ingredients, like the rica rica sorbet, or perita de pascua. I found lunch to have more home runs than dinner, though, where purée bases overpowered the proteins they were supposed to support on more than one occasion.

The spa

Use the altitude as an excuse to spend your first day (or morning, at least), indulging in the wellness offerings here—or maybe you start every day that way, if you can swing it. The Willka Kuti purification (the equivalent of $170 USD when I visited), is a fantastic 90-minute scrub and massage that incorporates coco leaf oil and rosemary, but I was also in a near-trance from the free 10-minute head massage on offer during my stay.

The neighborhood/area

San Pedro de Atacama isn't much, but make sure to mosey through main street for some ice cream (there's a famous local spot, Babalú, that's so good they have three locations in the tiny town), or a chelada at night. If you really want to tap into the local scene, ask around to find out about late-night parties that take place in the surrounding desert.

The service

While on the property, it's easy to feel like you have the place to yourself—but the staff are always on hand in the restaurant and reception area.

Eco effort

Even though you will be advised against drinking tap water here, bring your reusable water bottle, which the bar staff are happy to fill.

Anything left to mention?

There's plenty to keep you busy in Atacama, and the surrounds—I stayed for three nights, and wish I had more time. Some of the headline attractions here, from flamingo-filled lagoons to powerful geysers, require a full day to visit.