Review: Jannah Lamu

I fell for Lamu, the 14th-century former powerhouse on the maritime trade route between Africa and Asia, as a student in the late 1980s—a time of semi-ruined mansions and no electricity. The island, specifically the outlying former fishing village of Shela, is a bohemian hot spot today, and the new Jannah Lamu is buzzing with energy (and air-conditioning, still a rarity here). This is the latest hospitality project of Kenyan designer-hotelier Anna Trzebinski, who has incorporated old village buildings and outdoor spaces into one innovative “constellation hotel.” It’s easy to shed layers of stress here, lulled by the sounds of Shela: children kicking around a football, calls to prayer, village elders putting the world to rights, and donkeys drinking from stone basins at the hotel’s bougainvillea-draped entrance. Jannah—now the highest building on the skyline—features Gaudí-esque curved windows and a vertiginous staircase tower, which connects the bedrooms to the penthouse and communal roof terrace. The Swahili-chic decor is punctuated with touches of glamour, and terraces overlook the wooden dhows on the bay—three of which are at the disposal of Jannah guests. The hotel also owns a canopied and cushioned barge, for languid day trips to distant dunes and islands, morning swims through the mangrove inlets where turtles like to surface, or shopping trips to vibrant Lamu Town just along the coast. Because as everyone who lives here knows, the essence of Swahili culture is inevitably best imbibed afloat.