Review: Puqio

Why book? Peru’s first tented camp, Puqio brings elevated, safari-style digs to the region of Peru known for the dramatic Colca Canyon, the 9-foot-wingspan Andean condor, and rich Incan roots.
Set the scene The Colca Valley, which acts as the gateway to the dramatic Colca Canyon, is known among Peruvians as a place to reach back in time. The tranquil valley is dotted with small towns, where women in elaborately adorned traditional skirts and shawls take rest on shaded benches; and the sloping hillsides, lined with Inca agricultural terraces still used today, are an infinite patchwork of green and beige. Though the chance to see Andean condors draws a share of European backpackers and day trippers to the major lookouts in the canyon, Puqio is nestled in a quieter corner of the greater valley—here, it’s you, the rustle of Andean hummingbirds and alpacas, and sunsets that will sear themselves into your memory. The lodge, unsurprisingly, draws couples who want to escape into this oasis, though I loved seeing a group of women enjoying their coca leaf reading in the main lodge one day (I hear this experience might be offered on a regular basis down the line.)
The backstory Andean (formerly Andean Experience) is a Peruvian brand behind some of the country’s chicest stays: Atemporal, in Lima; Titilaka, in Lake Titicaca; Cirqa, in Arequipa. Unsurprisingly, their foray in Colca has been just as buzz-worthy. Puqio marks the first-ever tented camp in Peru (and the tents are Peruvian-designed, no less), and star staff from existing Andean properties have brought their guiding, culinary, and design prowess to this latest opening.
The rooms Book a tented Carpa for a safari-style experience—the canvas armoire and window coverings, accented by leather straps, alongside a wood-burning stove, will make you feel like Alexander von Humboldt as you sit down to log your condor and vicuña sightings at night. (Then again, the comfy duvet with a hot water bottle tucked in each night, not to mention the choice between an indoor and outdoor shower, will remind you that this is not at all the 1800s South America that the German naturalist documented.) The larger Carpa Refugio is decadently spacious, with an extra bed perfect for a child, and a sitting area with a desk. The adobe Pirca roundhouse rooms are ideal for even bigger groups—they have all the same safari-chic trappings with vintage embellishments, in two conjoining rooms (instead of a terrace bathtub, Pircas have a tub in the bedroom, views still very much included).
Food and drink The all-inclusive experience of Puqio beautifully manifests in the dining. No need to order, just show up at meal time, and you’ll have a coursed lunch or dinner that highlights unique local ingredients like sancayo, a zingy cactus fruit, or bread baked in an adobe oven outside. Let the team get creative with your cocktails in the evenings (with the bar cart rolled beside your table, it’s a nice show, too), and come hungry to every meal—the portions are generous.
The spa A spa is in the works, stay tuned.
The neighborhood/area You’ll rely on a car to get in and out of the property—but make sure your travel from the city of Arequipa (where you’ll fly in) is during daylight, so you can enjoy the incredibly scenic ride through the Salinas y Aguada Blanca national reserve. In the Colca Canyon, ask your guide to take you to little towns like Chivay for a taste of local life, or pop over to the hot springs just below Puqio. Incan archaeological sites like Uyo Uyo are within eyesight.
The service Feels like family.
For families The Pirca rooms make it easy for groups to share a space, though most kids are going to be eyeing those tents when you walk past.
Accessibility This is fairly rugged terrain—not only are stairs present, but a boardwalk-like path is used to reach the tents and cabins. Consult with the team on your needs before booking.
Anything left to mention? The magic of the Colca Canyon is hard to encapsulate, but the guides at Puqio make sure you’ll understand it by the time you leave. Take advantage of your access to them. As for your condor spotting, keep in mind that the dry season of April to November is ideal, though we saw 10 in a day during December thanks to our guide Leito.