Review: Kōzo Kigali

The latest iteration of Kōzo—a self-proclaimed “dining journey” known for its fusion of Afro-Asian cuisine, originally launched in Accra—is the brainchild of Thai -Dutch executive chef Sakorn Somboon. Tucked into the hillsides of Kigali’s Kimihurura neighborhood, the restaurant offers a sparkling skyline view that sets the stage for a culinary experience as diverse as the cultures it represents. The monochromatic space, adorned with modern African art and bright pops of color alongside natural elements, is an open-concept design that flows seamlessly from the main dining area to the bar and terraces. The menu theme changes every three months and is designed to be shared. The chef described the next menu concept—Sea Breeze—as citrusy, sparkling, umami-rich, and focused on locally sourced meat inspired by his recent trip home to Southeast Asia. Among standouts are the Akabanga beef spring rolls and rock shrimp with spicy mayo to start; and the wok tiger prawns (imported every week from Kenya) cooked in a chili-garlic sauce with ginger and fresh basil, served with green beans. The slow-cooked lamb in a cardamom curry with a plantain mash is divine, and the sizzling beef served in a steaming cast-iron pan is a show in itself. Sip bartender Tresor Twishime’s Forest Negroni—a twist on the classic with clove smoke and locally distilled Imizi botanical rum. —Alicia-Rae Light