Review: The Devonshire

Hyped restaurants in London are nothing new. But The Devonshire, just off Piccadilly Circus, has reached buzzed-about levels we’ve not seen in a while. At the helm of all this fanfare is Oisin Rogers, an old-school landlord who has been working in London pubs for 30 years. Ashley Palmer-Watts (a Heston Blumenthal alum) heads up the kitchen with a menu that spotlights the wood-burning grill and oven—think duck-fat chips, suet puddings, and scallops with bacon and malt vinegar. In the legitimate British pub downstairs, the team slings out pint after pint of perfectly creamy Guinness, the most on-trend bar order in London right now. Reservations open three weeks in advance and get booked up in minutes—there’s no hotter table to book right now. —Sarah Allard