Review: Datil

Take the sought-after roving chef Manon Fleury, a predominantly woman-led team, a plant-focused culinary ethos, and an earthy and bright interior, and you have Datil—the talented young chef’s first restaurant, located in Paris's north Marais. Fleury has always given locally sourced produce the starring role in her cooking, treating meat and fish as condiments. But here, dishes are more than just the sum of their sustainable parts; they come out of the semi-open kitchen like artistic compositions meant for reflection. The menu shifts seasonally but standouts have included rutabaga and pink radishes layered with garlic cream, almond, harissa, and thinly sliced scallops, as well as a celery and mushroom consommé-congee mashup, sprinkled with a few comestible flowers.