Review: Oseille

In late 2023, chef Thomas Troisgros—the fourth generation of the renowned French culinary dynasty—opened Toto as something like a Parisian neo-bistro, but with a menu inspired by the chef’s travels around the world. Nestled within a townhouse in the vibrant center of Ipanema, the casual restaurant was a quick hit. Troisgros recognized the potential for an elevated dining experience, however, and envisioned Oseille in the vacant upper part of the same building. With the help of a three-member team, the chef fashioned a 16-seat counter around a well-equipped kitchen, where he now exclusively serves signature tasting menus (five or seven courses) that change from time to time—but they’re always anchored in local and seasonal ingredients, combining his French heritage with Asian influences, all topped with a Brazilian accent. The level of hospitality makes diners feel as if they’re being welcomed into the chef’s home—visitors can even choose their preferred background music.