Review: Kiln

You can’t put Kiln in a box. The food you’ll sample throughout the two-and-a-half-hour, 18- to 20-course tasting menu is a truly global affair: a little bit Scandinavian meets Japanese meets Californian with a touch of French finesse, courtesy of the tableside pours of luscious buttery sauce on your dry-aged mackerel. There’s no meal quite like those at Kiln because there’s no chef quite like John Wesley. Yes, it’s very much a fine-dining restaurant with white tablecloths and Michelin-starred ambitions, and yet loud hip-hop blares through the speakers while tattoo-armed cooks walk each course to your table. Come as you are, and get ready for a ride. —Omar Mamoon