Saudi: a destination that had never been on my travel radar before. But a few months ago, I decided to take a trip there alongside London-based broadcaster Zezi Ifore, who was shooting a short film there for Condé Nast Traveller, with director Amirah Tajdin. For a country of such diverse geography – including cityscapes, forests, grasslands, mountain ranges, and deserts – it was AlUla, an extraordinary desert paradise, that called to Ifore and Tajdin in particular. A UNESCO world heritage site located in the country’s Medina province, we soon found that a place such as this should be pinned to the atlas of any explorer; a place to step out of the ordinary and into the extraordinary.
Investments are pouring into establishments and initiatives that offer transformative traveling experiences – especially for those interested in immersing themselves in unexpected culture, wellness, and food. AlUla, for example, even has its own international airport. Here, we also discovered that the country is in the process of undergoing a huge transformation, and human stories are at the heart of it all. Everywhere we ventured, the warmth of Saudi hospitality shone through with each delicious coffee and sweet date offered.
Seamlessly incorporated into the vastness of the natural landscape are the two immersive five-star resorts we stayed in: Caravan by Habitas AlUla and Banyan Tree AlUla. Sustainably built desert sanctuaries, each references the nomadic Nabatean architecture, inhabited by travelers on incense routes. The Habitas’ caravans are fitted out as individual cabins, interspersed with food trucks and outdoor gathering areas. The Banyan Tree is an incredibly stylish tented building, constructed in wood and glass. It effortlessly evokes the presence of the neighboring ancient rocks. (A swim in its central infinity pool left me feeling like a tiny speck floating in another universe; a more than welcome disconnect from reality). A focus on holistic wellness is front and center of these hideaways, with yoga sessions, tranquil meditation, sound baths at dusk, or movie nights held under the canopy of stars come sunset all part of the package. Ifore also went stargazing with local explorer Rayan Al Dossary, and was shown the various constellations that are clearly visible to the naked eye.
AlUla’s Old Town has been awarded the title of Best Tourism Village by the United Nations World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), and its charm has been effortlessly preserved. Here, we found a delightful mix of weathered buildings, quirky shops and galleries curated by modern Saudi artists. Set against the backdrop of original mud brick houses, this place serves as a testament to the harmonious coexistence of traditional and contemporary Saudi culture. “Everything feels in harmony with the natural environment, there’s nothing incongruous,” says Ifore, who also took some time to explore a traditional rug store, the shopkeeper talking her through the symbolism behind different weaves and patterns.
Bustling with residents until just a few decades ago, the Old Town is now in the midst of a meticulous restoration process. This effort is dedicated to safeguarding its rich history, ensuring that it remains a destination for future generations to explore and embrace. When evening fell, we indulged in a late dinner at Suhail, a restaurant on Bakhour Street, which takes its name from the most well known shining star which Arabs traditionally used to help navigate their long journeys across the desert. It serves traditional Saudi dishes such as Kbeibat Hail, a vegetarian dish of stuffed grape leaves with Hail Spices, and Riyadh Jareesh, a famous dish of groats cooked with Laban topped with caramelized onions and garnished with gold leaf. Towards the end of our stay, we headed out to Hegra (previously known as Madain Saleh), located 14 miles north of AlUla – a place that bears witness to a millennium of Arabian history. The area’s significance lies not only in its breathtaking natural beauty, but also in its role as a vital crossroad, connecting the Arabian Peninsula to the wider world. Much like Petra in Jordan, Hegra is a comparable Nabatean site. But one that is only just emerging from centuries of forgotten memories. Its rock-cut tombs and structures showcase engineering prowess from thousands of years ago. We were guided by Mr. Mamdou Al Balawi, who told in-depth stories of how the tombs came to be.
AlUla revealed itself as an intricate tapestry of history, hospitality, and transformation. With its timeless majesty and the warm embrace of its people, AlUla had not only defied my expectations but left an indelible mark on my wanderlust. “If there’s anything that I’ve learned from being so lucky to spend time in the vastness and expansiveness of nature is that I can give myself that time and space to think,” says Ifore. “I don’t have to rush to any conclusions.” As travelers, it's our privilege to unearth the unexpected. And, as the city is still under excavation, there's still so much more yet to come.