Athens is far more than just your port of entry to a week spent island hopping. In the last few years, the Greek capital has enjoyed renewed status as a European arts capital—perhaps best signified by the arrival of the $623 million, Renzo Piano–designed Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center in 2016, and last summer’s super-sized Documenta art fair—the first time the festival had been held outside of Kassel, Germany. And though the country may still be recovering from a severe financial crisis, tourism is booming again: Just a three-and-a-half-hour nonstop flight from London, travelers flock here for the hilltop views of ancient ruins, corridors filled with artists and award-winning cocktail bars, and meals you'll remember long after you leave. Here’s how to get the most out of three days in one of the world’s oldest cities.
Checking In
A Gold List favorite, the Hotel Grande Bretagne, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Athens sits right in the middle of things on Syntagma Square (also known as Constitution Square). Guests can catch the changing of the guard outside Parliament on Sundays at 11 a.m., or sip on a well-made cocktail beneath an 18th-century tapestry of Alexander the Great at Alexander’s Bar. The 1930s King George, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Athens hotel also offers a similar vibe with antiques accenting the rooms and an Alain Ducasse restaurant, but if you’re looking for something a little more boutique, we suggest AthensWas, which sits in the shadow of the Acropolis. The major draw is its location, right in the heart of cobblestoned Plaka.
Day 1: Ruins Up Close
It's hard to come to Athens and not see the ruins—they're everywhere—so why not start with the most famous one? Arrive early to beat the crowds to the Acropolis, which opens to the public at 8 a.m. in the summer, 8.30 a.m. in the winter, and is a short walk from the Akropoli metro station. You might still have to fight your way through clusters of selfie sticks, but we promise it’s one of those rare tourist-filled destinations that is truly worth your time. Not only are the views from the hilltop some of the best in the city, but the Parthenon is even more impressive up close. Crowds still not your thing? Climb up to the top of nearby Areopagus Hill—the Acropolis shines from afar.
After your first fix of ancient history, refuel with a mid-morning koulouri (a ring of sesame-covered bread) from one of the food carts below, and then make your way over to the Acropolis Museum, about a seven-minute walk. Surprisingly peaceful (there’s a no-photo policy) the museum is worth at least an hour of your time, filled with glass floors and windows that provide glimpses of ruins, and rooms that house artifacts—marble statues, fragments of temples—from prehistoric times to Antiquity. If time is short, head straight to the Parthenon Gallery on the top floor, a glass atrium that runs the length of the building and pieces together the Panathenaic Procession; missing sections of frieze are still controversially housed in the British Museum and the Louvre.
For a late lunch, walk over to the hip-yet-tranquil neighborhood of Koukaki, which sits at the foot of the hill yet still manages to provide a much-needed respite from the more touristed streets nearby. We love Kinonó, a light, airy space with a long, wooden bar that begs to be sat at for all-day breakfast options and sandwiches, and Bel Ray, a former car wash kitted out with vintage turntables. Grab a caffeine fix at local favorites Lotte or Little Tree Books & Coffee and then—if you still have the stamina—squeeze in an hour at the National Museum of Contemporary Art, which finally opened in 2016 after a 12 years of construction and postponements.
By the end of the day, you’ve earned yourself a good meal and a cocktail (or two). If you’re staying in Syntagma Square, head to low-key Tzitzikas kai Mermigas for the braised goat, or book a table in advance at Hotel Grande Bretagne, a Luxury Collection Hotel, AthensHotel Grande Bretagne
’s rooftop restaurant for some of the best views of the Acropolis.
Day 2: Flea Markets and Souvlaki
While Athens’ Monastiraki Flea Market is—in theory—open seven days a week, it’s only really worth your time on Sunday mornings, when jewelry makers and artisans set up their stalls for the day. Avoid the main strip on Ifestou, where you’ll likely find yourself sifting through souvenir junk rather than one-of-a-kind antiques, and explore the side streets for trinkets sold by palaiopoleia (second-hand dealers). Don’t miss the Stavros Melissinos sandal shop for a pair of classic leather sandals, and make a quick detour to Pittaki Street to Instagram the 150 lanterns, chandeliers, and lamps that hang above the gritty alleyway. Meanwhile, if you’re on the hunt for local food vendors, tack on some time at the nearby Athens Central Market, where you’ll gawk at heaps of seafood, giant cuts of meat, and locals doing their weekly shopping. Still hungry? Walk for 20 minutes (or hop in a taxi) over to O Kostas, which serves the best souvlaki in town (just get there before 11:30 or noon, since they tend to sell out by 4 p.m.), and then cut back through Syntagma Square to the Tomb of the Unknown soldier on Amalias Street and then on to the National Garden—a peaceful enclave in an otherwise chaotic city that was once the official royal garden (and the perfect spot to eat that souvlaki).
Round out the afternoon by walking up Lykavittos Hill—or opt for the far more pleasant cable car option. The highest point in the city, the Lykavittos’ views are the best in the city (according to one myth, the hill was once the refuge of wolves). Try to time it for sunset and grab a drink at hilltop restaurant Orizontes Lycabettus, which has a panoramic terrace, before making your way back down to the Exarcheia below for dinner. With a long history of activism, the neighborhood is still home to artists, students, writers, and yes, activists, who fill the tavernas that line the narrow, graffiti-covered streets. Stop into one of the area’s many independent bookstores and browse literary magazines and socialist newspapers before settling down at family-run spot Rozalia for grilled meat and fish, with a final late-night drink at Alexandrinó. (Note: Before you go, check to see whether there are any protests taking place in Exarcheia, as the area, while usually safe, is still best avoided during those times.)
Day 3: Beaches, Opera, and One of the Best Restaurants in Town
The heat can start to take its toll during the summer, so it makes sense that Athenians spend June through August on one of the 6,000 surrounding islands and islets. Consider a day trip to Hydra, where you can hike along the coast (head to the Profítis Ilías monastery at the top of the hill) or simply take advantage of the pebbly Mediterranean beaches. Just a one-hour trip from Piraeus port on the hydrofoil, it was the longtime home of musician Leonard Cohen (you’ll be hard-pressed to find a restaurant owner who doesn’t claim to have known him). Donkeys navigate the cobblestone streets instead of cars; no motors allowed here.
If you don’t want to stray that far from Athens, make for Vouliagmeni Beach: Fourteen miles from the city center (and easily accessed by local transport), it’s home to the upscale Astir Beach, which is absolutely worth the €18 ($22) fee for a sun bed—just be sure to book a ticket in advance online once the season starts as the beach is capped at 1,000 people per day.
Alternatively, dedicate your final day to the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center near the Bay of Faliro, where you can do pilates on the Versailles-inspired Great Lawn of Stavros Niarchos Park, watch a ballet in the 1,400-seat main hall, catch the Greek National Opera, or even hole up in the brand new National Library of Greece—all within a sleek, Renzo Piano–designed modernist building. (Just this month, the Chamber Music Society of Lincoln Center became the first U.S. group to perform there.) Bonus: Visitors can rent bikes to ride around the cultural center’s massive park between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m.
Back in the heart of the city, hit up Plaka, back near the Acropolis, at dusk. It may be a tourist spot, but the area’s steep cobblestone streets and open-air cafes and bars will charm you to no end. While you might think that your last night in Athens warrants a traditional Greek feast, we suggest to booking a table at Nolan instead. Known for its Greek-Asian fusion menu, the restaurant has been buzzed about since it opened in 2016. (Order the soba noodles with smoked salmon and tahini sauce and thank us later.) Somewhat surprisingly, the atmosphere is also relatively unpretentious, and the same can be said for one of the world's best bars, The Clumsies, just a short walk away. End the night with expertly made cocktails that are steeped in history yet somehow utterly forward looking at the same time—a bit like Athens, really.
