What happens when one of the world’s top chefs decides to open a country inn? If that chef is Massimo Bottura, the result—Casa Maria Luigia—is playful perfection.
Bottura’s restaurant, Osteria Francescana, has three Michelin stars and has been named the world’s best restaurant twice, so you’d think he might be content to rest on his culinary laurels. But Bottura is anything but predictable. He and his wife, Lara Gilmore, have created an exquisite country house hotel on the outskirts of the historic Italian city of Modena in Emilia-Romagna. I stayed at the 12-room inn shortly after it opened in 2019, and the experience has only improved since.
The atmosphere
Casa Maria Luigia is a reimagined 18th-century villa surrounded by private gardens. Standing at the entry gate, I already had a hint of the inn’s cheeky approach: A pair of stately urns above the main portico have been transformed into giant cups overflowing with brightly colored pillows of sculptural gelato, complete with spoons.
Jazz from Bottura’s collection of classic vinyl wafts through the villa’s open windows, creating a laid-back soundtrack. As I walked through the door, I felt like I was arriving at the country home of some particularly sophisticated friends who also happen to be a lot of fun. Bedecked with the couple’s fabulous collection of bold, contemporary art (Tracey Emin in the reception area, Ai Weiwei in the lounge, and Damien Hirst in the breakfast room, for example), Casa Maria Luigia defies convention in much the same way as Bottura’s cooking. He is, after all, famous for brilliantly unexpected dishes like “The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna,” and “Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart.”
Despite its luxuries, this adults-only place is far from stuffy. I was welcomed by the inn’s English-speaking staff, dressed in citrus-hued jackets emblazoned with the word “ciao” and Gucci sneakers covered in pink strawberries. Settling in, I found (and tasted) surprises around every corner—from a fully stocked open kitchen to a mix-your-own-cocktail lounge to an album-filled music room with a single, throne-like armchair. Witty and provocative artwork greeted me in each space.
The rooms
With décor that mixes high-end vintage and contemporary furnishings, Casa Maria Luigia has an unfussy elegance that’s effortlessly cool. Each of the 12 art-filled guest rooms has a distinct personality and aesthetic. All are generously sized, with open-plan seating and sleeping areas. Bathrooms feature handcrafted ceramic tiles, walk-in showers, freestanding tubs, and Ortigia bath products. The penthouse unit has a private balcony and marble bathroom, plus an extra guest bed in the tower.
Bottura and Gilmore have recently added another accommodation, nicknamed Luigina, just a short walk away. It’s a contemporary-chic three-bedroom, four-bathroom bungalow with a full kitchen and living room and its own private pool. It’s a great place for a small group to rent together, and additional concierge services are available for Luigina guests, including private dining and cooking classes.
The food and drink
Of course, everything here begins and ends with food. I laughed when I first entered my room and found a chunk of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano resting under a glass dome like a rare treasure, and a tiny bottle of chilled, local Lambrusco waiting for me. I also had my own espresso machine and a minibar stocked with San Pellegrino drinks.
The head chef at Casa Maria Luigia is Jessica Rosval, who joined the inn after seven years on the Francescana team. She leads a culinary crew that serves an astonishing daily breakfast in the Carriage House, with traditional Emilian specialties from the inn’s wood-burning oven—including cotechino sausage cooked under the ashes and focaccia—plus gnocco fritto with ricotta and mortadella, erbazzone cakes, and house-made jams and honey.
The kitchen in the main house is open daily from 6 a.m. to midnight, so pajama-clad guests can wander in and raid a refrigerator stocked with a sumptuous selection of chef-prepared salads and snacks. Fresh-baked bread, breadsticks, and Bottura’s Villa Manodori balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil are available on the kitchen table, and visitors can help themselves to a cold drink or a cup of espresso or tea.
For a true culinary thrill, guests can reserve a spot at the inn’s Francescana at Maria Luigia, a nine-course, seasonal tasting menu and dining experience (typically lasting three-plus hours) highlighting some of the signature dishes from the famed restaurant. It’s only served Tuesday through Saturday, as Casa Maria Luigia is closed Sunday and Monday nights. The popular dinner is also open to the public, but hotel guests have priority booking and are advised to make reservations early. The inn also offers a Sunday Take it Easy Brunch that includes a multi-course tasting menu with live music. Reservations are required.
The activities
Casa Maria Luigia’s oak-shaded, park-like grounds offer meandering paths that will lure you toward the vegetable garden, tennis court, and outdoor swimming pool. The Playground is a combination fitness center and gallery, with gym equipment sharing the airy space with Bottura’s beloved art and car collections.
Emilia-Romagna is the land of slow food and fast cars, and the inn’s staff can help guests set up visits to nearby balsamic vinegar and Parmigiano cheese producers, vineyard tours to taste the region's sparkling Lambrusco, and pasta-making classes with a local chef. They can also organize private guided tours of nearby cities including Modena (home to the Luciano Pavarotti Opera House), Bologna, Parma, and Florence. The stunning automotive factories of Italy’s Motor Valley—including Maserati, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Pagani, and Ducati—make for fantastic day trips.
Book now: From 500 euros (about $565) per night, casamarialuigia.com
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