One glance at a map shows how New York’s Finger Lakes got their collective name. The 11 long, slender lakes, extending roughly north-to-south, look like outstretched fingers.
On the mystical side, Iroquois tribes believed the lakes were formed by the Great Spirit, reaching down to bless the land and leaving impressions of fingerprints that were filled with clear, fresh water. According to geologists, however, the gorges of water that form the present-day Finger Lakes were carved by moving, melting glaciers two million years ago.
Science and lore aside, there is no arguing the allure of this upstate region rich in history (and herstory) thanks to American roots that run even deeper than those of the Finger Lakes’s bounteous vineyards. Harriet Tubman, Frederick Douglass, Mark Twain, Clara Barton, Joseph Smith, and many other heroes and luminaries dwelled in the Finger Lakes region, leaving their own deep imprints on U.S. culture.
There’s much to explore: Comprising 14 counties across more than 9,000 square miles, the expansive Finger Lakes region is almost as large as the state of Massachusetts. It’s dotted with charming small towns, each with a unique character that has beguiled travelers for two centuries. Many of them began as villages that grew steadily once the Erie Canal opened in 1825. Today, their legacies endure for visitors seeking everything from abundant nature and recreation to great wine and gastronomy, renowned art, and historic landmarks.
When (and how) to go
All four seasons in the Finger Lakes offer something by way of natural delights. Warmer months invite outdoor activities like hiking, biking, and water sports, particularly in some of the great state parks where you’ll find waterfalls, picturesque trails, and natural swimming holes. Winter brings its holiday and lights festivals and snow sports, plus a greater appreciation for cozy spa sessions, and abundant opportunities for tastings—whether you’re thirsty for craft beer, cider, spirits, or wine. The region is especially glorious come autumn, when harvest season brings apples, pumpkins, and grapes, overlapping with mesmerizing fall foliage to make any scenic drive, from Owasco to Canandaigua Lake, ultra colorful.
More than the other lakes, the shores of Seneca, Cayuga, and Keuka are lined with world-class wineries that produce prized vintages for which the region is rightly famous: dry riesling, unoaked chardonnay, and cabernet franc. There are more than 100 Finger Lakes wineries, so when touring the area, pad your schedule with extra time to swing by the tasting rooms of your choosing.
By air: The largest airports for Finger Lakes access are located in Rochester and Syracuse, on the northwest and northeast corners. From either city you can conveniently reach hotels and inns around the north ends of Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua Lake; the three largest Finger Lakes. Amtrak also serves those cities, its route roughly following the New York Thruway (I-90) from Albany to Buffalo. From the south, Ithaca’s regional airport is a smaller hub at the foot of Cayuga Lake, where you can travel up its eastern shore to lovely Aurora. Head west to reach Watkins Glen on Seneca Lake south, or further on to Hammondsport on Keuka Lake.
By car: Most regional travelers prefer to drive in, soaking up sights and planning stops along the way. A car is your key to the region, inviting you to cruise scenic byways and tasting trails along and between the lakes. Wise visitors choose one town to lay anchor, and spend days journeying to points of interest that, if planned right, usually aren’t more than an hour or two away.
Northeast: Seneca Falls
The town of Seneca Falls made its first headlines in July 1848 as the spot where Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B. Anthony, and other Americans held the country's first official women’s convention: the Seneca Falls Convention. Today, the Women's Rights National Historical Park, the National Women’s Hall of Fame, and Stanton’s national-landmark home are essential stops for Finger Lakes visitors.
The town is also especially festive around the holidays: Seneca Falls is believed to be the inspiration for Bedford Falls, the setting of the classic Christmas film It’s a Wonderful Life; don’t miss the It’s a Wonderful Life Museum or the Seneca Falls Bridge (also called George Bailey’s Bridge, thanks to the movie) depicted in the film. This December the museum will celebrate the film’s 75th anniversary with screenings, cast appearances, carriage rides, and other events.
Drive about 30 minutes east to Auburn for a visit to the Harriet Tubman Home and National Historic Park, which recently reopened for tours of the grounds. Throughout 2022, Tubman’s life will be commemorated with special programming marking the bicentennial of her birth, including special tours, memorials, and the summer exhibition of sculptor Wesley Wofford's nine-foot-tall Tubman statue, The Journey to Freedom.
Where to stay: Check into the renovated 1919 Gould Hotel Seneca Falls, a modern boutique hotel on Main Street, or the circa-1855 Laura Hubbell House Bed & Breakfast, where you can enjoy a garden, fireplace, and homemade breakfasts. Just leave room for a field trip westward to Muranda Cheese Company in Waterloo, where you can sample local cheeses and sip beverages on the long porch overlooking the pasture.
Northwest: Canandaigua & Geneva
The scenic waterfront town of Canandaigua is home to several spots that showcase the best of the Finger Lakes. Its historic City Pier is an active boat dock that’s primed for Instagram. Nearby is the not-for-profit New York Kitchen, a tasting room, restaurant, and cooking school that almost exclusively uses New York State ingredients and products. Just around the corner, the Lake House on Canandaigua is a chic hotel, restaurant, and full-service spa worth planning a trip around for stylish digs with ample outdoor amenities like bike rentals and the lakefront pool.
Explore another era at Canandaigua’s 1887 Sonnenberg Gardens and Mansion State Historic Park, a 50-acre estate with public gardens and one of the country's best-preserved Victorian-era homes. A short drive east is Geneva, a historic town nestled at the top of Seneca Lake. Start with a visit to the waterfront Finger Lakes Welcome Center, where you can get all the intel and maps you need, peruse historic artifacts, buy local souvenirs, and enjoy lunch and local wine, beer, and cider on the outdoor terrace.
In Geneva, FLX Table draws foodies for its single-table, dinner party-style four-course menu that’s prepaid with your reservation (wine or beer pairings can be added). Reserve at Port’s Café for a dining experience that also centers on local, seasonal dishes—this one overlooking Seneca Lake.
Where to stay: Belhurst Castle and Winery, just down the shore, offers lodging inside an 1889 castle or in the estate’s smaller cottages and houses. Belhurst is also home to a spa and salon, two restaurants, and a large tasting room serving its own wines, beer, and cider.
East: Aurora
The historic village of Aurora sits on the eastern shore of Cayuga Lake. Oenophiles who’ve explored Napa, Sonoma, and other wine regions will appreciate the Finger Lakes’ distinct melding of vineyards and waterways: Join Water to Wine Tours to visit wineries on Cayuga Lake via small-group boats departing Long Point State Park dock, near Aurora, or on the western shore in the town of Ovid. At the south end of Cayuga Lake lies Ithaca, a busy college town less than an hour from Aurora that serves as a portal to the magnificent waterfalls, gorges, and trails inside Robert Treman State Park, Taughannock Falls State Park, and Buttermilk Falls State Park.
Where to stay: Aurora’s boutique Inns of Aurora rival some of the dreamiest Finger Lakes hotels. A collection of renovated historic buildings, many of its rooms were transformed from academic chambers into elegant guest rooms adorned with whimsical MacKenzie-Childs ceramics and fine décor. Its five freestanding inns form its own little campus, with landscaped grounds and sunset views over the lake, including from its elegant restaurants.
South: Watkins Glen & Hammondsport
The crystal-clear water of Seneca Lake’s south end is calling from Watkins Glen, a village with easy access to Watkins Glen State Park and the shoreline’s cluster of wineries and breweries. Work up an appetite on kayaking, paddle boarding, or fishing excursions with Summit to Stream Adventures. Then dive into tastings at nearby creameries, orchards, farmer’s markets, and working farms.
To the east, Hammondsport anchors the south end of Keuka Lake. It’s home to the Finger Lakes’ oldest winery, Pleasant Valley Wine Company, where the region's first vines took root in 1860. This year, the winery partnered with the Corning Museum of Glass (located about 30 minutes south) to exhibit “Fire and Vine, the Story of Glass and Wine,” which will run through the end of 2022. Hammondsport also is home to two notable transportation-centric institutions: the Finger Lakes Boating Museum, and the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum of motorcycle and aviation history.
Where to stay: The four-room Pleasant Valley Inn offers tranquil lodging and breakfast in a historic residence, as well as a fine-dining restaurant serving cocktails made with local spirits. For a hotel suite, stay and dine lakeside at Snug Harbor, a year-round all-suite option that serves a curated selection of local Keuka Lake wines and other products.
All listings featured in this story are independently selected by our editors. However, when you book something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
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