Mexico is the holy grail for a wide array of craft and artisanal spirits, yet most Americans have only heard of tequila and mezcal. But to overlook other regional liquors, and the traditions surrounding them, is to miss out on swaths of Mexican culture.
In Mexico, drinking is more than just a social activity: it is often rooted in ancient traditions and religion. Even the sacred agave plants, from which many Mexican spirits are harvested, are family heirlooms traditionally passed down from generation to generation as a source of financial stability, and to ensure the sustainability of these revered plants for the future.
It’s time to expand that must-try list from sipping tequila in Tequila, and tasting mezcal in Oaxaca, to throwing back a few endemic spirits elsewhere in the country. From pox in Chiapas, to Mexican rums in Michoacan, these are some of our favorite spirits and drinks to seek out on your next trip—plus where to find them, and how to drink them. (And if you're not headed south of the border any time soon, we’ve linked out to where you can find several of these online, with international shipping available.)
Bacanora
Named after Bacanora, the city in the state of Sonora, MX, this spirit is essentially a mezcal made from only one type of agave (Agave Pacifica) (though it cannot technically be considered mezcal, since Sonora is not included within the protected Denomination of Origin for Mezcal). Historically, during Sonora’s 77-year prohibition from 1915 to 1992, it was also known as “Mexican Moonshine.”
Think of Bacanora as a lighter bodied mezcal with notes of smoke, fruits, and minerality. You find some brands of Bacanora (we like Rancho Tepúa, Yoowe) served in cocktails in cities such as Guadalajara (at Mezonte) and Oaxaca (El Destilado), but the best place to drink it is at bars in its home state of Sonora—especially the capital, Hermosillo. Bar La Ruina and Barra Hidalgo are your best bets, but before you try it in a Margarita or “Hermosillo Mule” (simply a Moscow Mule, sub Boacanora for vodka) it’s best to taste it on its own.
“Drink it neat at room temperature,” recommends Arik Torren, importer for Rancho Tepúa. “Maybe with some dry fruits, and nuts.”
Pox
Pox (pronounced pōsh) is an ancient Mayan spirit preserved by the Tzotzil people that falls somewhere between an unaged whiskey and a rum, and is only produced in the highlands of Mexico’s most southern state, Chiapas. Pox was originally made from corn and cacao beans, but evolved with crops brought by the Spaniards. “Pox nowadays is made from four native varieties of corn with the addition of wheat and panela,” Carmen Lopez, food chemist and mezcal educator, explains.
Of these Mexican spirits, Pox is the most ceremonial in the way it’s consumed. Isidoro Guindi, co-founder of Siglo Cero Pox, says that the traditional toast involves paying tribute to the Earth, sky, and to your neighbor, to foster trust. After the toast is made, you sip, swallow, and exhale to expel evil spirits and cleanse your heart as a form of healing. “The most authentic experience of trying the Pox is visiting the church of San Juan Chamula and asking the Shamans for a cleanse,” Guindi says. “It is there where one can see all the mysticism and what this means for local communities.”
At La Espirituosa in the Chiapan city of San Cristobal, ask the bartender for a tutorial—they can also show you the traditional way of drinking it. Outside of Chiapas, you'll find Pox at bars and resorts in the Mayan Riviera (like Beach Bar at Be Tulum), Baja California, and Mexico City (where Licorería Limantour, Balmori, and Fifty Mils at Four Seasons stock it). Lopez says that Poxna is a brand worth keeping an eye out for at bars, as they run a program for preserving the ancestral practices of Pox production.
Comiteco
Comiteco is a rare spirit originating from the highlands of Chiapas (specifically Comitán), made from a mix of pulque (fermented sap of the agave heart) and fresh sugarcane juice. Comiteco was a popular drink throughout the Spanish colonial era, mirroring the demand for tequila by the mid-20th century, though it began to disappear shortly after.
Today, there are only 100 registered brands of Comiteco in Mexico, so bottlings are few and far between. It can be hard to get to the source without a personal local connection, but ask around bars in Chiapas and you might have luck. Otherwise, you can get a taste of this unicorn of Mexican spirits in some major cities. The most popular brand is Comiteco 9 Guardianes, which can be found in thriving Mexico City bars such as Pachuco Vinos y Licores, Baltra, and Xaman; but can also be found in Guadalajara at La Sinforosa.
Mexican Rum
Also referred to as aguardiente de caña, or destilado de caña, rum in Mexico dates back to the early 1500s when the Spanish first brought sugarcane to the country. The taste is similar to French Rhum Agricole, but each rum usually has a distinct flavor specific to the area it was grown in (expect varying hints of grass, corn, fruits, and a distinct funk).
Paranubes Rum and Cañada Rum are a couple brands produced just outside of Oaxaca City, where it’s increasing a surge in popularity. When in Oaxaca City, travelers can get a taste of these unique rums at cocktail bars like Sabina Sabe and Mezcalogia.
Charanda is another regional take—made in Michoacan, with only six distilleries left in production. Lopez says just about any liquor store will sell it, though, suggesting travelers look out for Charanda Uruapan, which is the most popular, and Charanda El Tarasco. (She says the 350 ml bottles—about 12 ounces—make perfect souvenirs.)
Travelers can also find Charanda in mixed drinks at many of Mexico’s cocktail bars, like Limantour in Mexico City and Casa Jaguar in Tulum, but it’s also common to enjoy it neat at room temperature before a meal, according to William Scanlan, who imports Charanda Uruapan to the U.S.
Mexican Whisky
Mexico is the birthplace of corn—domesticated by the peoples of Meso-America approximately 10,000 years ago—so it's no surprise the crop is a base of most Mexican cuisine. But corn-based whiskey is still a fairly new category. “Except for the case of prohibition where illegal distilleries in Chihuahua and Sonora were producing whisky distilled from corn, and smuggled illegally into the United States, Mexico has never been interested in transforming corn into a spirit,” Ivan Saldaña, master distiller for Abasolo Corn Whisky, says. “This is a new practice that comes from the appreciation of the richness that corn can bring.” Thanks to the high corn-content, the it can taste somewhat like bourbon.
Whiskies are primarily being produced in the Mexico City area and Oaxaca these days, with new distillers such as Abasolo, Sierra Norte, and Pierde Almas making versions that have cropped up in the countries trendiest bars and restaurants, like the capital's Pujol, which offers several varieties to taste, and Dante steakhouse. For an off-the-grid excursion, visit the Destilería y Bodega Abasolo right outside of Mexico City, where you can see how the whisky is made.
When ordering it at a bar (Pangea in Monterrey is another great spot) Saldaña recommends drinking it on the rocks with a little bit of mineral water, but that 100 percent corn whisky also stands-out in sours and old fashioned-style cocktails.
