A Local’s Guide to Hawaii, USA

You might call Brandon Lee Hawaii’s number-one fan. A passionate advocate for Hawaiian sustainability, Lee grew up in the small town of Honokaa, on the island of Hawaii, and did a brief stint on the mainland before settling in the town of Hilo, on the same island. The father of four now owns his own restaurant, Napua, where everything—from the food to the plates themselves—is locally sourced; he also presides over Kaunamano Farm, a 150-pig farm that supplies sustainably raised pork to Napua. As COVID-19 has catalyzed new conversations around tourism to the Hawaiian Islands as well as Hawaii’s reliance on imports, Lee has remained staunchly committed to the idea that the islands sustain themselves. So, too, has his passion for this place—and his belief that there’s nowhere else on earth quite like it—remained unchanged.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

Describe Hawaii to us.

Hawaii people are loyal to their land. I know everybody kind of feels that way about their hometown, but they don't to the extent of Hawaii's people. I remember we moved away to Colorado for two years when we were young and came back. The air smells like flowers, like pikake, which is a flower you have at weddings—it just does. So every time you smell that smell, you think of your wedding day, one of the happiest days of your life. When I’m on the mainland, as soon as I get off the plane, it smells different. It doesn't smell like home—I can tell. Some people can't even taste pork from chicken, but I can tell when I’m not home.

It looks like...the best spot to live! The most beautiful islands, a perfect ecosystem, a perfect balance—everything's perfect. We have fresh water in the middle of salt water; even the koa tree has a special leaf that has the ability to grab moisture from the air, so condensation forms on the leaf like a cold can of soda, and it drips the water down to its roots. And then that tree is the host tree for many other trees. Then, as it circulates, it goes out; then it hits the dirt. And then you have all the different birds. Hawaii, I'll tell you, it's not just the most beautiful—it's the most exceptional.

If a friend was visiting Hawaii and had just 24 hours there, what would you tell them to do?

Hawaiian people all have this history that we all know. I would take you into one of our valleys, and you'd help out in a taro patch, which is this big giant mud pit, and you'd help plant that and then have lunch with them and then swim in the ocean in the afternoon and then have a couple of drinks with them. And then maybe head up into the town and then have a great dinner at a restaurant that you know is growing Hawaii food—that would be the most mega experience.

Where to eat?

On Big Island, there's Cafe Pesto in Hilo; they do a wonderful job supporting the local farmers. There's also Miwa, a little Japanese restaurant in the back corner of Hilo Shopping Center. And they make sushi and Japanese food, but it's like this local Hilo style of Japanese. The guy who started that restaurant is older now, but he was the sushi master who kind of started off a lot of the great sushi guys on the island. He would bring back stuff from Japan that he'd let you try, little tiny squids and stuff; it would just depend on whatever he brought back. They also do a great unagi that I love, but it's really Hilo style.

What to buy?

One thing that Hawaii doesn't get noticed enough for is the kind of local crafts that are created in Hawaii and are of Hawaii. Remember, we were stuck on an island for like 1,000 years. We learned to weave things and make leis—so lei culture is huge. There are lauhala hats, which are pulled together from that type of leaf, which is very strong—they're sun hats, beach hats. And there's a lot of preparation. It's really hard. They're expensive, but they're beautiful. You can find them at Hana Hou in Hilo.

If you had to pick a favorite thing of yours that's grown in Hawaii, what would it be?

That's a really tough question because we grow so many things in Hawaii. Lychee, mango, papaya—everything's good. But you have to go with the revered taro plant.