Bundle the video game-glow of Tokyo, food scene of Singapore and English-speaking streets of Hong Kong, stretch it out over a sprawl of skyscrapers and village-style neighborhoods and cram in more than a fair share of fantastic shopping, and you get Seoul. Though this city of 16 million has been in the shadow of its Japanese counterpart for decades, Seoul is (finally!) emerging as a destination on its own merits. Beauty tourism has boomed since 2015, Korean BBQ as a food trend is to this decade what sushi was to the nineties, and a little ditty you may have heard of popularized the, erm, 'Gangnam style' now embraced by fashionistas world-wide. Yet within this modern city lie serene pockets of palaces and temples that recall the important history of the Korean peninsula stretching back 700 years. There is a lot to take in for sure (you'll thank the travel gods for the quick, clean subway system) and it'll be a challenge. But you can do a lot of it in three days. You just need to know how.
Day One
Bright Lights, Late Shopping and the Best Views in Town
Don’t worry about jet lag: Seoul is bright, fast, buzzing and literally never sleeps; its stretches of glowing neon signs and cacophonous, day-to-night markets will keep you charged from the minute you touch down (and if you start to crash, one of the city’s trademark day spas is never far). Catch the 45 minute express train in from Incheon Airport, drop your bags inside the spanking new Le Meridien, which opened last year with 336 art-filled rooms in trendy Gangnam, and hop on the subway north to Dongdaemun.
Named for the 14th-century fortress gate that once marked Seoul’s eastern fringe (it’s now smack in the middle of town thanks to urban expansion) this commercial district captures the dichotomy of old and new with its modern architecture, traditional markets, and glass-walled shopping centers. Our pick is Doota, which sells hand-made dresses from Seoul label Lang and Lu and doesn’t close till 5 a.m.—awesome for a late night spree after shooting soju at the 113-year-old Dongdaemun Market nearby. A short stroll away, Zaha Hadid’s futuristic Dondaemun Design Plaza (DDP) is worth a couple hours of your time. Sign up for a guided tour, which will take you through the area’s on-site history museum, or just wander the seven levels at your own speed: You'll find an exhibition space dedicated to Korean product design and a market selling accessories and clothing, though the real draw is the building itself, which Hadid designed free of angles and straight lines.
The subway stop is right outside DDP, so head a few stops south to the riverside Hannam neighborhood, filled with cafes, shops and Seoul’s stylish millennials sipping cappuccinos, just in time for lunch. Tartine Seoul opened here a few weeks back and already has a cult-like following for its Momofuku-inspired ‘crack’ pies. (Though we are partial to the steamy bowls of buda jjigae—a sausage, kimchi and ramen soup popularized after the Korean war—from the simple Bada Sikdang.) Then spend an hour or so wandering Hannam’s serpentine-like alleyways, popping into boutiques like Beaker, a Korean Barney’s Co-op, and Article for leather totes and wallets. Do your wandering in the northwest direction, toward the Itaewon neighborhood, a favorite for 20 somethings due to its bar scene until you find the sleek Leeum museum, where oil canvases by Francis Bacon hang alongside paintings by modern Korean masters like Park-Seo Kewn and native pottery from the 13th century. If sunset’s approaching as you exit, take the cable car to the 870-foot summit of nearby Namsan hill to catch panoramic views over the city. Or just hit up Itaewon’s Côté Jardin for a glass of Bordeaux (you’ve earned it) before tucking into beef tartare bibimbap at bistro Jangkkoma; the plating is so pretty, you're sure to post it to Instagram.
Day Two
Palaces, Temples, and the Souvenirs to Take Home with You
Considering Seoul’s influence on pop-culture, it's easy to de-prioritize the more historical facets of the city in favor of spa visits, galbi, and shopping. But you should dedicate a day to exploring its palaces and temples, many of which are in the middle of town, accessible by subway, and within walking distance of each other.
A slower-paced Seoul greets you at Anguk subway station near Changdeokgung Palace, surrounded by low-slung, traditional wooden homes. It’s an appropriate start to the day ahead. Follow the signs north to the palace, which was built in 1405 and is one of the most important pieces of architecture preserved from Korea’s Josean dynasty. You’ll know you are close by the palace guards dressed in beautiful crimson and jade hanbok, the traditional costume—time your arrival right and you’ll catch the ceremonial changing of the guard on horseback (just don't get that Dunkin' Donuts across the street in your photo, it totally kills the vibe). Then explore the ponds and residential villas of the palace on your own, or join a group; English language tours go every morning at 10.15 a.m. A 15 minutes stroll west, Gyeongbokgung Palace is the largest in Seoul; its Gyeonghoeru pavilion remains nearly exactly as it was when it was built back in 1395. Just note that Changdeokgung is closed on Tuesdays and Gyeongbokgung on Mondays, so plan appropriately if you want to hit both.
Moving east along Yulgok Ro (you’ll know you’re headed in the right direction if you pass Anguk Station), you’ll hit Insadong, the best place in town for historic food and art. It’s tempting to dart straight into the tight lanes off the main road, lined with tiny storefronts brimming with paper and ceramics, but hold off on the shopping until after lunch. Opt for the japchae (glass noddles) at Jirisan, inside a former home done in the traditional Hanuk style with one modern caveat: a glass ceiling that warms the simple, blond wood interiors.
Think of Insadong as the equivalent to Paris's Montemarte—loaded with charm and creativity, rooted in history. It’s Seoul’s bohemian district, and it's said that 40 percent of all crafts produced in South Korea are exchanged here; pick up clay kimchi pots and hand-stitched slippers to bring home, though our souvenir is always hanji, the delicate Korean paper made from mulberry wood that comes either blank or with prints of traditional Korean street scenes. Once you’ve blown through all your won, stop off at the 620 year-old Jongyesa Buddhist temple en route back to the subway. It’s green and pink-window shudders carved into the shape of native trees, give the temple provenance. If you want to take a breather before leaving Insadong, the tiny Tapgol park has plenty of bench space and monuments dating back to the 15th century.
Day Three
Temples, Spa Palaces and the Beauties Who Love Them
For every blinged-out boulevard in Gangnam, there’s a quiet temple to make this neighborhood a microcosm of Seoul itself. Do brunch at Le Meridien, (though if you wanted to get a jump start on the day, head south to Yangjae Citizens Park to stroll with locals before they dart off to work) then hit the road. You could burrow deep underground in Coex, Asia’s largest subterranean mall where over one thousand shops carry international and local labels. But we think the first stop should be the concept store Boon the Shop, which trend setters around the globe say is on par with Milan’s 10 Corso Como or Colette in Paris (no small feat in the style world). If you want to pick up Korean cosmetics (and trust us, you do—the quality and price is unbeatable) head around the corner to Jung Saem Mool, Seoul’s answer to Bobbi Brown. We always pick up her lip stains and concealers.
Southwest along leafy boulevards you’ll come to Bongeunsa Buddhist Temple. Take an hour or so to regroup here; the temple’s tea ceremonies between visitors and monks is especially worthwhile, and a complete counter to the espresso houses all over Gangnam. Next door, the pork belly BBQ at Black Pig with mung beans and kimchi is a solid lunch.
Once you've refueled, do Gangnam's most beloved retail street, Garosu-gil. It’s the closest thing to Soho you’ll find in Seoul (right down to gentrification: pricey boutiques kicked out the artists and galleries which made this area popular in the 80s). We love it for the people watching at hot spots like Queenmama Market as much as we do the beauty tourism. Sulwhasoo is our go-to for creams and facials, and stock pile sheet masks at 11 Village Factory before sitting down to a foot bath on the store’s top floor. After three days dashing round town, the bath is both indulgence and necessity.
Like many parts of Seoul, Gangnam has plenty of pojangmacha, those ubiquitous and rowdy tent bars that pop up on the sidewalks as the sun goes down. Have your first drink of the evening inside Gangnam’s Hanshin Pocha and make it an Orion lager, paired with plate of Korean fried chicken if you fancy. If you can peel away from your table (in true Korean fashion, your seat mate will likely insist on buying you a few more Orions before you go), head across to Cheongdam-dong and settle in for the night. Speakeasies like Alice serve Darjeeling tea and vodka with vanilla smoke. Even if you push to stay out as late as you can, we guarantee the locals will still be pounding Jack Daniels and soju when you finally do leave. No one in Asia outdrinks the Koreans. That’s a fact.
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