The origins of St. Moritz go back thousands of years to when rich mineral springs were discovered. Today, however, it's better known as the birthplace of Alpine winter sports—and the European ski resort of choice for well-heeled chionophiles. It's home to glitzy hotels, sleek restaurants, secret drinking dens, excellent ski runs and, during the winter months, Remo Ruffini, the chairman and CEO of high-altitude fashion line Moncler. Here, Remo shares his insider tips for enjoying the storied Swiss ski resort, where he—of course—owns a chalet.
A version of this article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK. All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. If you book something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
When did you first visit St. Moritz?
“When I was three years old, on holiday with my mum. I always went there as a child. It’s where I first learned to ski. It holds a special place in my heart. We used to stay in a simple hotel at the foot of the Morteratsch glacier, and we had to walk for half an hour along a trail of snow and ice without any trees—that image is firmly imprinted onto my memory.”
Where do you stay in St. Moritz?
“I’m lucky to have a house in St. Moritz, but there are so many gorgeous hotels. The grand Badrutt’s Palace is the most iconic. Overlooking the lake, it’s very elegant and traditional and has a huge dining room window that gives views of the whole valley. Suvretta House, perched on a mountainside plateau towards the south, retains an old-world atmosphere, with its snow-dusted turrets and coffered ceilings. It sits at the beginning of the ski slope with direct access to the Corviglia ski area, so the snow is easy to reach, even with children. For those who prefer small but charming, there’s the Historic Hotel Chesa Salis along the valley in Bever. It’s a 16th-century manor house with hand-painted walls, like something from a Swiss storybook.”
Where's a great place in St. Moritz to watch the world go by?
“It has to be a restaurant with a view. I like a long lunch at Paradiso, in the Corviglia area. The food is good, but more importantly, it faces south, overlooking the lakes.”
Where are the best places to eat in St. Moritz?
“I love traditional restaurants that serve simple but well-done plates in typical Engadine settings with a pleasant ambience. My favorite spots include Clavadatsch, for its spectacular view; Kuhstall, a repurposed old barn at the foot of Corvatsch; and Chesa Veglia, a chalet in the centre of town, which serves French cuisine but also local dishes such as bratwurst and lentil soup, which I love. For a really exceptional high-altitude experience, I always recommend Langosteria. Raclette is served everywhere, from fine dining restaurants to local hole-in-the-walls, and I’m crazy for it. The smell lingers on your clothes, but that’s all part of the experience.”
Where do you like to go for an evening drink in St. Moritz?
“The best place to head to after dinner is the Dracula Club, a one-of-a-kind private members’ establishment in a charming little chalet. It’s not a typical club, but more of a place to go and chat. As the name suggests, the decor is creepy, featuring a coffin at the entrance with bats and spider webs everywhere. In the summer, it hosts the Festival da Jazz, which has become a landmark on the St. Moritz music scene.”
What are the coolest cafés in St. Moritz?
“The most famous place in St. Moritz for a pit stop is Hanselmann, on the main street, where you really feel the mood of the Engadine and inner Switzerland. It serves my favorite Engadiner Nusstorte, a delicious nut cake, and elaborately crafted handmade pralines. Then there’s Hatecke, a grocery store that offers soups and small plates. It was opened by a butcher from the Lower Engadine and he stocks the best Alpine dried meat in the valley. A classic on the slopes is Alpina Hütte, where I stop every day for the atmosphere. There’s a lot of music, and sometimes international DJs play there. I always have a little glass of Braulio with ice, which gives me the energy to keep skiing.”
Where are the best ski runs in St. Moritz?
“There are beautiful skiing spots everywhere, all very different from one another. Corvatsch is the place to go in February because it faces north, so it’s very cold and there is snow until May. Corviglia is much more glamorous, much sunnier, less about skiing and more about lunch with friends. It also has the most interesting lodges. My favorite ski instructors are at the Swiss Ski School, also known as The Red Legends. They all wear Moncler apparel.”
What are the top shops in St. Moriz?
“I always stop by Trois Pommes by Trudie Goetz, a multi-brand fashion boutique with interesting international labels and quirky one-offs—great for menswear and women’s clothes. For ski equipment, the best place is Skiservice, at the start of the Corvatsch slopes. It has quality tailor-made products. And I may be biased, but I also have to recommend the new Moncler boutique, which is the first flagship store in the world fully dedicated to Moncler Grenoble.”
Where in St. Moritz do you soak up some culture?
“St. Moritz is full of galleries. The best is Vito Schnabel Gallery, a contemporary art specialist that showcases world-famous American and international artists. It’s characterized by a clear identity and the peculiar vision of its eponymous owner, with postmodern works from the likes of David Salle. The gallery has also curated public spaces in St. Moritz as an extension of its programming.”
Do you have any secret spots in St. Moritz?
“To experience the origins of St. Moritz, there’s a restaurant shack called La Baracca at the foot of the chairlift. It has live music in the evenings, and there’s a real energy about it. Also, taking in the Engadine and the entire valley from the Muottas Muragl viewpoint, reachable by a funicular railway, is an unmissable experience.”
What draws you here to St. Moritz?
“I consider St. Moritz my second home. I feel connected to nature and can switch off from the world. The cold gives me energy, physically and cerebrally. The forest in front of my home here inspired a Moncler Grenoble collection in 2013, when we transformed New York’s Gotham Hall into a ‘human forest’ of 370 people dressed in shades of green, in a synergy of nature and community. Because, as spectacular and inspiring as the landscape may be, what stands out are the people. The residents here pay close attention to every detail, meticulously maintaining the lawns and trekking routes to the cross-country skiing areas.”
