Any Audemars Piguet new watch alert is always guaranteed to get attention, but this latest unveiling of beauties will take some beating. In 2024, the Swiss horloger has already dominated the watch world's attention with new grail watches including John Mayer’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – and now AP fanatics have plenty more pieces to dream of one day owning.
This year, the theme running through all Audemars Piguet's new pieces is “Shaping Materials”, reflecting the brand’s relentless quest for creative techniques and designs. And new CEO, Ilaria Resta and co, aren't kidding – we’re talking lots of bling, textures, colours and different shapes.
The first one that catches our eye is the [RE]Master02 Selfwinding, paying homage to an asymmetrical watch crafted by the manufacture in 1960. The brutalist-style 41mm timepiece comes with a rectangular case made of the brand’s new 18-carat sand gold alloy, and flexes a midnight blue dial that gleams from all angles. “It is rare for designs from this era to be used as a design source in the watch industry,” says Yuu Sekiguchi, editor-in-chief of Hodinkee Japan. “And considering the background of custom-made watches from that time, it is impressive to see such meticulously-crafted watches adjusted to modern manufacturing environments.”
While this reinterpretation of a vintage number will likely grab the headlines, we are really vibing the new Royal Oak Selfwinding Full Gemset pieces, adorned with — wait for it — a camouflage pattern that extends from the dial to the case and bracelet. Yes, camouflage is back big time, or perhaps it never left the chat. Take your pick between two colourways: the motif is made up of 861 baguette-cut gemstones in graduated shades of blue or in green, brown and black tones – the latter reminding us of the pixelated looks from Pharrell's debut LV collection.
“The creatively arranged Royal Oak with jewels exudes charm that goes beyond conservative luxury sports watches, expressing a retro game-like taste using the Royal Oak as a canvas,” says Sekiguchi.
The brand did not shy away from ice, with its most affordable Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection getting the full gemset treatment as well. The two new gemset 38mm Code 11.59s come with cases and dials delicately adorned with brilliant-cut diamonds and coloured sapphires all arranged in a trippy, kaleidoscopic-like pattern, in 18-carat white or pink gold.
And, there’s the teeeeeny, tiny Royal Oak Mini quartz model measuring a mere 23mm diameter in 18-carat yellow, white or pink gold. Will men – looking at you, Timothée Chalamet and Tyler, the Creator – go for this mini model? “I personally wouldn’t wear the mini Oak ones because they’re just a bit too small on my wrist, but I can definitely see men wearing it, especially because the market is demanding smaller watches,” says Austen Chu, founder and CEO of Wristcheck. “It would be really cool to see people stack the mini Royal Oaks to tell time in multiple time zones.”
For Sekiguchi, the miniature Royal Oak takes a unique approach not seen in recent years, and it appeals to contemporary sensibilities. “In Japan, it is clearly favoured by women, but this size also pairs well with street fashion. It can blend in as one of the bracelets or be worn loosely by men with their favourite necklaces.”
Other releases include the 37mm Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel, which Chu absolutely loves. “No one does open-worked watches better than AP. The colour combination on this hits the spot. Monochromatic vibes with a touch of blue and gold. What’s not to love?”
And there’s the delicious 34mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding, in 18-carat white or yellow gold. The 3D dials are an absolute work of art, with a textured, scintillating pattern handcrafted by the brand’s artisans. We could seriously stare at it all day. “AP has proven that they continue to evolve in many ways with these new creations,” concludes Sekiguchi. “This includes its processing techniques, creativity, and respect for heritage.”
