The GQ edit of the best new watches in 2024
Every week, we present the best new watch releases on the planet from the likes of Tudor, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. This week, Hublot and Daniel Arsham reimagine the pocket watch, Vacheron Constantin unveils a one of one and Paulin has some fun with fonts
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If you're buying a new watch, be it your first or your fifteenth, it'd be good to know what the best new watches on offer are, right? Because the sheer volume of choice is insane. With that in mind, we've done the hard work for you, compiling the hottest watch releases as they happen in one wristy place.
You’ll find everything from classic dress watches and divers, to everyday-field watches and sporty chronographs; those that cost a small fortune and those that are perfectly affordable. Whatever your taste, style or budget, we're hopeful you'll find a watch that you really rate.
Go get amongst – these are the best new watches we recommend adding to your collection (or at least stick on the wishlist).
1/57Paulin Oh No Automatic
The perfect typeface on a watch dial doesn’t ex… ist. Yes, yes it does. Paulin has been making bonnie wee watches for over a decade in Scotland and this transatlantic collab with Californian type masters Oh no might just be its best yet. The 12, 3, 6 and 9 occupy the majority of the dial, cleverly intertwined with the other numerals and I’m a big fan of the blocky red seconds hand that tick-tocks its way round thanks to a Swiss-made movement. Also available in white with red or black typography. £750. At paulinwatches.com
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2/57Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon
When Harrods’ powers that be got together to toss up which luxury brand would best enhance the story of their 175 years through time, I doubt many rivalled Vacheron Constantin. Patek Philippe is closer in age but only Vacheron comes close to matching Harrods’ quintessential elegance and classic trademark features. Both have remained at the top of the games for their entire existence; and neither shows any sign of deviating from that lofty path (indeed, ‘pioneers of the exceptional’ is the partnership’s party line). So it is apt that to mark this milestone – a mad one really given the state of retail space these days – Vacheron created a one of one watch for the occasion. We’re talking about a 45mm platinum case with 671 brilliant-cut diamonds dotted around the place and a tourbillon at 9 o’clock. Fancy seeing it in the flesh, at Harrods of course? Go for it.
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3/57Hublot x Arsham Droplet
Last March, when Daniel Arsham explained to me why he was teaming up with Hublot, he said it was all about “the people”. “They are really willing to do something that hasn't been done.” Fast forward to June 2024, Arsham and Hublot drop their new Droplet into the swirling horological seas – and just like that, pocket watches are never the same again. Like many watches, it has a titanium case and its movement is on show and protected by sapphire crystal. But that’s where the similarities to the norm cease. At 73.2mm, the Droplet looms large on the chest, and resembles an embryo – perhaps a play on its new beginnings? Hublot and Arsham both continue their knack of jumping into uncharted waters head first and coming out thriving. £76,000. At hublot.com
4/57Vertex M36
When you are one of a dozen brands given the go ahead by the British military to make timepieces for troops in the World Wars, and were responsible for delivering roughly 2000 watches to soldiers before the infamous Normandy landings on D-Day, then it totally makes sense to unveil a new watch to commemorate 80 years passing since that fateful day. This is exactly what Vertex decided to do, with its M36 – the M a reference to how things are named in the military, and the 36 reflective of the case size. It’s a charming tool watch with plenty of history, and with three strap options (a dark brown vintage-style leather, a woven cotton one and a steel bracelet) you can mix it up as you please. £2,150. At vertex-watches.com
5/57TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT
Everyone’s been going crazy for green watches in 2024 but this TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT might just be the freshest yet. One of a bevy of new Aquaracers unveiled this week, it's my favourite one by far – not least because it’s giving major Rolex GMT Sprite vibes too. Unlike Rollies though, it’s actually going to be possible to get hold of one. £3,650 isn’t bad for a 42mm automatic dive watch with GMT function, which is what the 24-hour markers around the bezel are for, meaning you can clock what time it is in more than one place in the world – at the same time. Boom. £3,650. At tagheuer.com
6/57Richard Mille RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal
This Richard Mille is basically Rafa Nadal in flying tourbillon form (kind of). Weighing in at just 11.5g – a record for the brand – it's the latest, maybe last? collab between RM and Rafa. Together, since 2010, they have been on a mission to make the lightest possible timepiece that you can still wear while playing tennis at the highest level. They’ve achieved it multiple times as they continue to set the bar for ultra light sports watches – we’re talking ultra ultra here – so it was a really nice touch to see Nadal debut this watch as he bid farewell to his beloved Roland Garros where he won 14 French Open titles. Just shy of a million pounds, this new edition to the legendary RM 27 Series proves how cutting edge Richard Mille watches are. POA. At richardmille.com
7/57Orient Star M34 F8
Japan has a seriously strong watch game with the likes of Seiko, Grand Seiko, Casio and Citizen. Another one for you – Orient, which boasts brilliantly reliable mechanical stainless steel watches at pretty affordable prices. Their dials can be off the chart stunning – case in point this blue 40mm Star M-34 F-8. It’s a) hand carved and b) like looking into a meteor shower on your wrist. At just over the £2000 mark, its automatic movement has a punchy 60 hours of power reserve, which is what's being measured at 12 o'clock. £2,199.99. At orientwatch.co.uk
8/57Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44 Red Arrows
In a year where Breitling celebrates 140 years of being one of the most influential and transformative brands in the watch world, it’s no surprise that there’s a big focus on its strong aviation credentials. 34 of those 140 years have seen Breitling aligned with Britain’s legendary Royal Air Force team, the Red Arrows, which has been wowing crowds with its impressive displays now for 60 years. To honour this milestone and partnership, Breitling has unveiled two new Avenger x Red Arrow models. One is a limited edition Avenger 42mm Red Arrows 60th Anniversary Edition (only 360 pieces) that’ll have pride of place in a collection full of commemorative pilot’s watches. The other is this fly blue and black B01 Chronograph 44mm, which rocks the Red Arrow’s killer ‘diamond 9’ flying formation on the subdial at 9 o’clock. But it’s not just a pretty face as it also boasts high-precision levels with the acclaimed COSC certification thanks to Breitling’s Caliber 01 movement that keeps the watch ticking for 70 hours nonstop. A percentage of each sale will be donated to the Royal Air Force Benevolent Fund, which you’ll be reminded of every time you flip the watch to see ‘Royal Air Force’ and ‘Red Arrows’ fittingly inscribed on the see-through caseback. £7,950. At breitling.com
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9/57Timex x The James Brand Titanium GMT
While it’ll usually cost you less than £50 for the pleasure of wearing a Timex watch, occasionally it’s good to see the brand flex its muscles with special edition pieces. Case in point, the creative genius behind Timex, Giorgio Galli, had a little link up with the team at The James Brand and have collectively dreamt up a killer titanium 41mm field watch that boasts a really understated GMT function and water resistance of 200m. The dial in particular is completely lowkey with a lovely flicker of yellow on the seconds hand bringing it to life. Made of titanium, it has the benefit of being light and can be bashed around too because it’s super tough. Inside there’s an automatic movement (a premium 9075 Miyota Automatic version), which is responsible for making it tick to the sound of 24 hours. £599. At timex.co.uk
10/57MB&F LM Sequential Flyback Platinum
Some watches are harder to get hold of than others, but for MB&F it’s not just because there are only limited quantities made. No, if you want to get your hands on any of Max Busser and friends) watches, you need to pass an interview to prove you’re worthy of one. This dazzling new LM Sequential Flyback in platinum is no exception – the white and blue colourway making it feel like a more classic looking piece compared to other MB&F creations. Why have a single chronograph on a dial when you can surprise with a unique dual chronograph that clocks an unprecedented combination of timing modes (independent, split-second, lap-timer and cumulative) as well as the ultimate pilot’s essential – flyback mode, which means one tap on the pusher will stop, reset and start the chronograph again. Only 33 are available, so make sure you’re on best behaviour for that interview. CHF 188,000. At mbandf.com
11/57William Wood Dunkirk
There are watches with a good story behind them, then there’s William Wood’s spectacular ode to a moment in British history like few others. The Miracle of Dunkirk during WWII only happened thanks to bravery shown from heroes like the Massey Shaw Boat. Now called the London Fire Brigade Fire Boat, they were responsible for saving more than 600 people from the beaches of Dunkirk in 1940. William Wood has decided to use its strong affiliation with the Fire Services to create a piece of history. This Dunkirk is inspired by a telegraph found in the Massey Shaw vessel with ‘half speed’ at 3 o’clock and ‘full speed’ at 9 o’clock. It has a bronze case with red engine rooms pipes wrapped either side of it as well as a genuine piece of the original boat engine on show in the caseback. All in all, a pretty unique offering that takes storytelling through horology to the next level. £3,995. At williamwoodwatches.com
12/57Tudor Inter Milan Black Bay 58
After spoiling us with some winning new watches earlier in the year, Tudor has enjoyed dropping several new pieces in collaboration with various sporting talents. After the Inter Miami CF pink piece, we got a colourful Visa Cash App RB Black Bay ahead of the Miami F1 Grand Prix. A Pelagos FXD Chrono recently dropped in line with Tudor’s Pro cycling team ahead of the Giro d’Italia and now to celebrate Inter Milan winning yet another Serie A, we are treated to this blue ombré Black Bay 58 39mm. The two stars on the dial above the club’s crest represent Inter’s 20 titles and only 1908 (the year the club was founded) are available in stores in Italy – in case you need an excuse for a weekend in Milan. At tudorwatch.com
13/57Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic
For JLC, the Polaris collection hits a more everyday-wearable vibe that can’t quite be said for the legendary Reverso. Eager to continue to elevate the Polaris – its sportiest model – the Swiss masters of refined watchmaking have gone dual time in quite a big way. A cute second-time zone display is subtly integrated into a busy dial at 6 o’clock. It’s set by the crown at 10 o’clock and displays the choice of city you’re in below. There’s also an AM/PM indicator in case you’re too spaced out to know. The gradient of grey on the dial and orange details make this very easy on the eye and the 70 hours of power reserve proves how technically gifted JLC is. £14,800. At jaeger-le lcoultre.com
14/57Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Ops
Let this be a reminder that Ulysse Nardin doesn’t just do mad watches like the Freak and the Blast – it can do great-looking, high functioning automatic steel sports watches too. This Diver Net Ops 44mm is made of 95% recycled and it’s the camo-like bezel which particularly draws our eye. With the ‘X’ embossed, khaki green dial, it feels only right to put this through a few assault courses to see how it fares. There's 60 hours power reserve (hello power indicator at 12 o’clock) and it’s water resistant to 300m – with a green rubber strap the badass kicker it deserves. £11,700. At ulysse-nardin.com
15/57Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT
If we had to guess which celebrity’s wrist this new Luminor might end up on, Panerai lovers Sylvester Stallone and Dwayne Johnson would feature at the top of the list. And maybe Hugh Grant, though he is more of a vintage Radiomir fan. The beauty of this piece, aside from it being a perfect example of how a new watch can look so elegantly retro, is beneath that clean-looking dial there’s a movement capable of working for a week and a half (10 days) without needing to be wound up. At 44mm, it comes with a fair amount of presence and we love the crown protector on it too. £13,200. At panerai.com
16/57Girard-Perregaux Pink Gold Laureato
Naming a watch brand that hasn’t released a green-dialled watch in 2024 might take you a while – but few are as bedazzling as Girard-Perregaux’s latest 42mm Laureato. In 2000, Elizabeth Hurley and Brendan Fraser did some pretty impressive reputational damage on anything ‘bedazzlement’ related, but the true meaning of the word is restored when you see the pink gold case/sage green dial combo on the fresh new Laureato. The Ultramarine Blue version is pretty dashing, too. Next year, this iconic integrated bracelet turns 50 so with any luck, we’ll be getting even more bedazzled by whatever is in store for 2025. £44,100. At girard-perregaux.com
17/57Bamford London ‘Harrods’ Limited-Edition Snoopy PVD GMT
To say Snoopy has been busy in the watch world recently isn’t strictly true. Yes, he caused a major stir appearing on the latest MoonSwatches, but he did so by lounging around on the moon with his bestie, Woodstock. Not exactly strenuous stuff. On Bamford London’s new collaboration with Harrods though, he’s being made to work a lot harder. In the colour of the legendary London department store, Snoopy’s arms double as the hour and minute hands while Woodstock is doing laps around the dial on the end of the second hand. As GMTs go, few others are this cheeky. £1850. At bamfordlondon.com
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18/57Seiko Prospex Solar Speedtimer Chronograph
When it comes to buying your first proper watch, for value, bragging rights, quality and a prestige name you can’t really beat Seiko – with this sporty new Prospex kinda proving my point. As well as boasting a decent amount of technical features (how good are these subdials and lumed up indices) and nods to the Japanese brand’s watchmaking and racing history, on a steel bracelet it also carries some serious weight. At 41mm with a black dial, it feels more stealth than previous Prospex Speedtimers – and it’s also solar power, which, depending on how green you are, could be a deciding factor. £620. At seikoboutique.co.uk
19/57Nomos Glashütte Tangente 38 Date Tiefseegrau
It’s nearly been a month since Watches and Wonders and the watches that still have us wondering most are… these new Tangente Date 38mm special editions that bring a lot of colour and life to Nomos Glashütte’s 175th anniversary celebrations. With 31 versions, all brand new colourways, they certainly grabbed the attention of the watch world – not least because we are so used to seeing this cleanest of clean dialled watches in very simple (white or blue), very clear versions only. Translated literally as deep sea grey, this particular one is more moody than the others and is adjudged to conjure up visions of giant squid and dragon fish lurking at the bottom of the ocean. We can’t quite see it but we like it nonetheless. £1,925. At nomos-glashuette.com
20/57Omega Speedmaster 38mm
Special edition Paris Olympics watches one week, banging collection of new diamond-encrusted Speedmasters the next; the powers that be at Omega HQ have been busy bees lately. Given the Speedy is one of the most popular chronograph watch models in the world, you could forgive Omega for taking a beat and relaxing – but no, four new stainless steel and four gold pieces – each boasting 52 diamonds (one for every week of the year?) paved around the bezel – are what the doctor ordered. With a choice between green or brown PVD dials, the most baller option has to be the sedna gold bracelet on sedna gold case with brown dial. £43,800. At omegawatches.com
21/57Swatch Visty by Verdy
Not to be confused with a certain Leicester City striker who likes throwing parties, Verdy is one of Japan’s most rated graphic artists. Which is one of the reasons why he’s managed to sort himself out with a collaboration with Swatch. With four pieces in the collection, our favourite is this one where Verdy pops this loveable monster who goes by the name of Visty on the dial – waving as if to say, hi there – how’s it going? With this strapped to your wrist, your day is bound to brighten up immediately. £96. At swatch.com
22/57Herbelin Newport Héritage Chronographe Bi-Compax
Frenchies Herbelin created some lovely new Newport pieces to mark the model’s 35th anniversary last year and it’s backing those up with this special panda dial version. Paul Newman and his Rolex Daytona made a name for the horological panda, so that now there are plenty of them out in the wild. This 42mm Herbelin one has a ceramic bezel to make it feel more modern than a lot of others. £2,600. At herbelin.com
23/57Tissot Seastar Wilson WNBA
Thanks to star players like Caitlin Clark, WNBA is enjoying a bit of a moment right now. Perfect timing then for the first official watch for the women’s basketball league to drop. Tissot has teamed up with Wilson to create two new Seastar 40mm models – one quartz and the other automatic. The basketball-looking strap will grab your attention but there are few black dialled watches cleaner than this one. A real three pointer. £625. At tissotwatches.com
24/57Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm
Vulcain’s claim to watch spotting fame is the fact Joe Biden is a fan of its Cricket model. Though he was clocked wearing one a while ago (in 2011), it’s amazing how these things stick. The Cricket – perhaps as a consequence? – got a revamp a few years ago and now its vintage-looking diver (the Skindiver Nautique) is having its moment in the sun with five new colours. Our favourite is the brightest one, in orange. CHF 1,490. At vulcain.ch
25/57Rado True Square Open Heart
When you are the first to do something, the pressure is always on to continue doing that thing well. Rado and IWC were the #first watchmakers to experiment with ceramic watches in 1986 – and nearly 40 years on it’s fair to say Rado has kicked on more than IWC with ceramic pieces. The latest True Square Open Hearts are testament to this, with this white ceramic open-worked dial with rainbow gems sets quite the spectacle. £2,950. At rado.com
26/57Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope
Squint, and it looks like an old Speedie from the ’40s. That’s thanks to the gorgeous Arabic numerals and a triple threat of timers (tachymeter, pulsometer and telemeter) on the dial. Omega has been the official timekeeper of the Olympics since 1932, meaning these are the features that clocked world records before technology advanced. This 43mm piece comes in Moonshine Gold with a Master Chronometer Calibre 9908/9909 that makes it not only superlatively pretty, but damn accurate, too. £30,900. At omegawatches.com
27/57Doxa SUB 200T Sea Emerald Green 39mm
Not to sound like a broken record but when we predicted green dials would be a major trend for 2024 we didn’t expect there to be this many. The IYKYK watch crew know the Doxa SUB 200 is lowkey one of the most legit dive watches out there ever since they showed up in 1967 – with orange, turquoise and yellow dials to choose from. Now, add green to the reckoning, a lovely sea emerald type. Doxa has listened to the call for smaller watches and duly dropped a 39mm diver, which is certainly at the slighter end of the spectrum for ocean-exploring wristwear. While the whole new collection has reduced in size, the Sea Emerald distinguishes itself with some lovely golden hands and hour markers. Fit as. £1,450. At doxawatches.com
28/57AVI-8 Flyboy Airmaster
‘Pretty fly for a white guy’ is one of those Offspring lyrics most millennials probably care not to admit to singing along to whenever that song comes on the radio. Embarrassingly, it’s the first thing I thought of when I saw AVI-8’s latest military pilot watch – the Flyboy Airmaster. From the unique sector dial at 6 o’clock to the circular and horizontal lines on the red/blue dial and yellow stitching on the strap, there’s no shortage of colours, textures and design features going on. But it all works inside that vintage-looking burnt red bezel. £180. At avi-8.co.uk
29/57Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green
Anyone who’s familiar with the weirdly addictive Netflix show – no, not Narcos – Is It Cake will know what I mean when I say this new Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept 42.8mm could be absolutely delicious in the form of a key lime pie. I’m definitely cutting into it. Either that or it’s giving major Mike Wazowski from Monsters Inc vibes. The point is less trivial than simply comparing it to desserts and monsters, rather it’s about how ultimately captivating a watch this is. Previous iterations of the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept also possess the ability to lose you inside their dazzling dials but few have been so bright and bold. That’s down to the fumé effect on what’s otherwise a totally minimalist design. And while Moser is responsible for one of the smoothest integrated bracelets around, we are digging the option of the blue rubber strap with this one. CHF 14,500. At h-moser.com
30/57Breitling Navitimer Automatic GMT 41mm
When you look at how fresh this Navitimer GMT looks, it’s hard to believe the design features were debuted back in 1952, 20 years before Alfie Haaland (Erling’s dad) was born. And yet here we are, marvelling at the very Manchester City-esque ice blue dial of the deadly striker’s favourite new watch. Anyone in need of a Navitimer lesson, here’s some Easter reading for you, but Breitling has a whole new collection of the GMTs and three-handed Automatic pieces in black, silver, blue and green. Given it’s celebrating turning 140 years old in 2024, I get the impression these are just the start of a pretty big year for Breitling, intent on going big on what CEO Georges Kern is calling a ‘year of firsts’. £4,850. At breitling.com
31/57Citizen Series 8 890
If you have dreams of owning an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and really rate the integrated steel bracelet of, say, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato, can I suggest this new lowkey Citizen Series 8. Everything from the inner rotating bezel to the supposedly lucky checkerboard pattern on the copper dial make this plucky limited edition Japanese watch a great conversation starter – especially when that mate is showing off his new diver that cost a fortune. Light on the wrist at nearly 43mm with an in-house automatic movement, it’s certainly going to have people asking to have a try on. Also available in blue or with a gold-plated case. $1,595. At citizenwatch.com
32/57Spinnaker Bradner GMT Automatic
Adding variety to a watch collection is always the best way of refreshing what’s on your wrist but that doesn’t mean you need to abide by any rules other than your own. For example, only want to own GMTs that have something a little different to them? Then the latest Spinnaker Bradner GMTs should be on your radar. Specialists in divers and all water-based watches, the dials of this new range have a fair bit going on. Three timezones? Check. Anti-reflective sapphire lens to ensure clarity? Check. Cute date window at 3 o’clock. Check. And most importantly, a double crown to keep things symmetrical. Oh, and it’ll cost you less than £500. £490. At spinnaker-watches.com
33/57Longines HydroConquest GMT 43mm
Having said green dials were going to be a big trend in 2024, we’ll admit an element of surprise as to just how many are cropping up. Among Longines’ collection of new HydroConquest GMTs in 43mm is this metallic-looking green dialled piece. (IRL, depending on the angle, it fluctuates from goldy-green to a dark green.) Launched last year as 41mm, it's one of the most popular colourways on what’s currently one of the hottest watch models right now – the diver/GMT crossover. Who knew so many people were hungry for robust travellers? Longines, clearly. £2,800. At longines.com
34/57Swatch x Tate Collection
Métier d’art watches are the apple of the eye of most serious collector's eye primarily for their ornate beauty, and because they tend to be limited editions. But that also invariably makes them extremely expensive, which is why we are thankful to the fun folks at Swatch, who as well as dropping new surprise MoonSwatches, also like to make it their prerogative to rock as much artwork on their dials as possible. This time, Swatch has surpassed its own high standards by teaming up with the Tate Galleries (from St Ives in Cornwall to London and Liverpool) to give us Matisse, Turner, Chagall, Miró, Léger, Bourgeois, you name it, on the dials and straps of a very collectible Swatch watches. For under £100, you can gaze at JMW Turner's Scarlet Sunset every day or get lost in Louise Bourgeois Spirals whenever you look at your wrist. Not only is the collection super fun, it’s also a way of getting more people into art – be it contemporary, classic or Cubism, and for that we should be very grateful. £96. At swatch.com
35/57Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49
If there is one watch that deserves to be talked about more in the grail stakes, it’s Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato. As luxury steel sports watches go, it’s the slighter, more chic and less showy alternative to an AP Royal Oak and born in the same era (three years RO’s junior). And now there’s one in titanium which as well as being extremely light, is also very clean by design. This time the Clous de Paris pattern on the dial is grey, not quite mirroring the colour of the titanium case and bracelet, but close enough so ensure the dial both pops and remains lowkey. £16,500. At girard-perregaux.com
36/57Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm Red Gold
Sometimes it’s nicer to forget the noise around a watch – like the fact it’s the OG of OG dive watches – and just judge it on looks. Case in point, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms. Arguably no watch had a bigger year in 2023 (70th anniversary + Swatch collab = broke the internet territory), and this year the brand is back quietly dropping beautiful pieces. As the world continues to favour smaller, more discreet watches, Blancpain subtly adds red gold and titanium options of the slighter 42mm FF (introduced last year) to broaden an appeal that’s already, well, broad. There are also few movements more reliable than the Calibre 1315 inside, ticking away doing its thing. POA. At blancpain.com
37/57Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite
The Laureato plays Girard-Perregaux’s classic bread and butter role so well that there’s always leeway to push the boundaries with its other collections. If I had to guess what design structures GP’s chief watchmakers have on their walls at home, I’d go bridges. Really industrial-looking ones where design supersedes purpose. Its Three Bridges pieces are a sight to behold and now the brand has dropped a new Free Bridge. The dial is basically the movement, with the inner workings on full show inside the 44mm stainless steel case doing all the talking. The ‘free bridge’ is the bow-tie balance at 6 o’clock and the piece de resistance is the two slices of meteorite on either side of the dial. Some brands add meteorite to the mix as a nod to space, but GP has done so purely for aesthetic reasons, and it bangs. £25,700. At girard-perregaux.com
38/57Certina DS Action GMT Powermatic 80
More people are wearing Certina watches than ever before because they are no-fuss, good looking and for a Swiss brand, affordable. The latest DS Action Diver was one of the big success stories of 2023 and 2024 continues its rich vein of form with a trio of new GMT Powermatic 80 pieces. Drawing quite obvious Rollie Sprite comparisons thanks to that 50/50 black and green bezel, this one is my favourite of the three versions – all on a steel bracelet or leather strap. The 80 stands for that number of power reserve, which is another reason why Certina punches above its weight and price point. £1,040. At certina.co.uk
39/57Tissot PR516 Chronograph Mechanical
Motorsport’s influence on watchmaking is frankly ludicrous with almost every brand prone to revving up a dial at least once in their history. This time, it’s Tissot’s turn again – getting all nostalgic over a 70s staple to give the PR516 Chronograph a slick new look. The quartz version of the PRX has been an absolute godsend for Tissot, offering new watch enthusiasts a nice step into the watch world but that’s not to say it doesn’t have some decent mechanical nous too – as exemplified by the hand-wound Valjoux A05 movement in the PR516. This watch is protected by a gorgeous glassbox-style sapphire crystal dome (new TAG Heuer Carrera-esque), which acts as a fine microscope lens to admire that dark-as-the-night dial through. Shoutout to the orange seconds hand too, which adds speed, danger and edge all at once. £1,720. At tissotwatches.com
40/57Hamilton Ventura XXL Bright Dune Limited Edition
No affiliation to the Ace pet detective, the Hamilton Ventura has had way more famous dalliances in its time – notably with Elvis in 1961’s Blue Hawaii. It’s a feat that nicely highlights both how long the watch model has been around, and the calibre it’s held. Hamilton as a brand has a hefty history with film and cinema, so it’s dope to see that Denis Villeneuve clearly did his homework before contacting the powers that be and duly collaborating on a special Dune 2 watch together that actually features in the movie. While we won’t spoil the role the watch plays, we are happy to confirm that two actual watches have been designed for non-Fremens to wear. Of the two, this XXL Bright Dune is our fave. Expect a lot of questions and glares when rocking this. £1,585. At hamiltonwatch.com
41/57Casio Casiotron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition
To think that Eminem, The Rock, Liam Gallagher and Idris Elba have all been around a year longer than Casio digital watches slightly blows my mind. How so many people were able to tell the time quickly and easily pre-1974 without having a trusty Casio, I will never know. What I do know is the brand plans to have some fun celebrating the big 5-0 this year – starting with a limited drop of its legendary OG, the Casiotron. The killer feature has always been the automatic calendar function; it was the first of its type on a digital watch as no one had dared/thought to do so before. The latest version is a slicker, contemporary copy of the original and is limited to only 4000 pieces. £449. At casio.co.uk
42/57Breitling Chronomat 36 x Victoria Beckham
As surprise synergies go, this one is up there. And very much a pleasant one too, primarily because of the size VB has gone for with her first ever Breitling collaboration. While Posh Spice is known for her ventures into womenswear, a collection of 36mm watches means they’ll appeal to a lot of men – not least because the colourways are so strong too. The green and gold has to be our favourite but the steel options are popping off too (and start from £4,700.). The Chronomat design features remain true to past ones (the rouleaux bracelets and raised 15-minute marker tabs) and there’s a self-winding movement to keep things ticking over. We wonder what David thinks? £23,750. At breitling.com
43/57Grand Seiko ‘Sunrise at Mount Iwate’
You know spring is on the horizon when Grand Seiko drops some new pieces from its Heritage collection that take inspo from the stunning Mount Iwate. I'm pretty sure the Japanese watchmaker’s HQ looks out on to it, as this piece copies the colours from a burning red sunrise over the mountain. Symbolic of a new beginning, this is another stellar entry to the steel sports watches game and pitches pretty highly primarily for its simplicity. Nice lil date window at 3 o’clock, sword-like hour and minute hands and a fine seconds hand that glides round the dial in good grace. No more notes. £6,500 grandseikoboutique.co.uk
44/57Piaget Polo 1979
Find me a more seamlessly integrated bracelet, I’ll wait. It’s the comeback that’s been long overdue. For many people it’s been too long. But when it finally arrived this week – in celebration of Piaget’s 150th anniversary – no one was disappointed. The return of the original Piaget Polo sports watch feels similar in hype to Vacheron Constantin’s 222 revival a few years back, which immediately got caught up in the cultural zeitgeist thanks to Brad Pitt getting cosy with one. For the Piaget Polo 1979 – packing a killer automatic movement – our money is on Michael B Jordan rocking this yellow gold nod to ’80s glam pretty sharpish. Together with a two-hand Poetry for the wrist. POA. piaget.com
45/57Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription
While TAG Heuer, Zenith and Hublot were busy at LVMH Watch Week in Miami dropping various new green-coloured pieces, Daniel Roth used the occasion to I guess officially announce what a Daniel Roth comeback is going to look like. Last year, we were told LV was relaunching the brand using its La Fabrique du Temps HQ in Geneva and 12 months later we get to see some prototypes of the new Tourbillon Souscription. Main notes from us: if you are going to launch a comeback, follow Daniel Roth’s lead. Not only is this piece flair the way the cool kids mean it, It’s giving major Breguet vibes and that tourbillon bridge is just next-level. The shape, the guilloché dial, the Roman numerals. Gosh. POA. At danielroth.com
46/57Bulova Meteorite Lunar Pilot Limited Edition
While Omega rightly deserves most of the ‘struck a watch on the moon’ plaudits, it’s not the only watchmaker to do so. After parking up Apollo 15 and popping the handbrake on in 1971, astronaut Dave Scott decided to go for a little walk to stretch his legs. He did so with a Bulova strapped to his wrist, which is the inspo for the brand’s latest Meteorite Lunar Pilot chronograph. The dial gets the proper meteorite treatment as it features a pattern referred to as Muonionalusta Meteorite, which apparently is four and a half billion years old. Quite who is verifying that for us, we don’t know but regardless the watch is a goodun. £1,195. At bulova.com
47/57G-Shock Mudman GW-9500TLC-1ER
If, like me, you found yourself following the Dakar Rally last month, you’ll know that Carlos Sainz’s 2024 got off to a great start because his papa (Sainz Sr) only went and won the whole bloody thing aged 61. Sainz’s mood might have shifted after the Lewis Hamilton to Ferrari news broke so perhaps one of these special edition G-Shock x Toyota Mudman can cheer him up? It’s unlikely, but it is nonetheless inspired by the world’s toughest race as it can handle the most extreme of extreme conditions while still being able to tell the time precisely. One thing, though – Toyota’s Land Cruiser has the benefit of windscreen wipers so if you’re going to put this watch’s down and dirtiness to the test, you’ll need to clean it yourself. £399. At g-shock.co.uk
48/57Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
Celebrating the anniversary of a material thing can seem a bit silly but when that material thing has been consistently serving faultless elegance for 70 years a little song and dance is more than warranted. Such is the case with Longines’ Conquest collection, which is being commemorated with a lovely heritage-looking piece that has the added benefit/heads up of a power reserve – displayed in the centre of the dial. What’s that? 32 hours and counting until you need to wind up your watch so it doesn’t stop (without needing to set a reminder)? Score. And for anyone who doesn’t bother setting their watch to the correct time anyway, it is also a beautiful sight to behold – be it the black, champers or grey dial – at a conservative 38mm. £3,500. At longines.com
49/57Swatch x Simpsons Sweet Embrace
Picture this: you’ve just legged it to try and catch your train home but the doors closed 30 seconds early so you’re furious. What do you do next? Glance down at your watch to see how long until the next train. What do you see? Homer and Marge Simpson smoochy smooching, of course. Fury immediately vanishes, replaced by smiles all round. There are plenty of other watches out there, but how many can honestly lay claim to turning around mood swings quite so emphatically like this Swatch ‘Sweet Embrace’? £96. At swatch.com
50/57Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Carmine Red
Roses don’t come as red as this new diver from Farer, which the British watchmakers have rightly acknowledged is their boldest yet. The name – Hecla Carmine – could easily be a Farrow and Ball paint colour, which only serves to embolden this piece. The mix of batons and Arabic numerals helps to keep the dial the right side of busy and the fact it’s made of grade-2 titanium means you’ll be surprised at how light it wears, and how good’s the sheen on that beautifully brushed finish? It also has a water resistance of 300m because being a diver is its primary raison d’etre – easily forgotten when it’s such a looker. £1,075. At farer.com
51/57Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot
2024 brings up the century for Hamilton and its service to making pilots watches that are a) banging and b) good bang for your buck. It’s a stellar innings that will keep on giving strong strokes of aviation-inspired for – hell who knows what the future on earth looks like but let’s say – at least another 100 years. Surely an AI robot will still want to wear a watch? Well, if they do their homework (all they do is swat up on stuff, right?) they’ll know that Hamilton does a good Pilot watch. Weird futuristic talk over, there are seven new Khakis and we dig this lairy white 36mm one the most. £915. At hamiltonwatch.com
52/57Timex Marlin Jet Automatic
Anyone else been reminded of Jet (the iconic ’90s British TV personality) after Gladiators returned to our screens recently? Unless a watch model called Electro comes out soon, this new Timex number is totally unrelated to any of that camp display of athleticism – but that doesn’t make it any less compelling. I mean, would you look at the ’60s charm of that domed crystal sat over the silver-coloured dial – the dial itself a display of A-grade minimalism. Being automatic suits us, as will that very smooth-looking navy blue woven strap. £279. At timex.co.uk
53/57Swatch x Blancpain The Ocean of Storm
It was only a matter of time before Swatch and Blancpain found another fish in the sea (more specifically another nudibranch) to model a new Scuba Fifty on – but we weren’t anticipating this Okenia Luna-inspired one to be the sexiest of the bunch. Unless you are Newcastle United this season, you just can’t beat a black and white colourway. All the hype in 2023 surrounding the MoonSwatch 2.0 was entirely warranted so we’re all for Swatch continuing to cash in on a good thing especially – let this serve as a reminder – when we’re talking about a mechanic diver that looks this good and is only £350. At swatch.com
54/57Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Dragon
A Blast, it always is. Let it never be forgotten that the world has a certain Carole Forestier-Kasapi to thank for putting Ulysse Nardin on the map for its technically bonkers Freak piece. While CFK has since moved on to pastures new, her movement expertises no doubt contributed to Ulysse Nardin’s Blast model, the latest of which honours the fact 2024 spells the year of the dragon for Lunar New Year. While we’re a little disappointed Ulysse Nardin hasn't found a way to breathe actual fire out of the dial, nonetheless this special edition tourbillon is pretty fire in its execution – and yes that’s a pearl at 6 o’clock. POA. At ulysse-nardin.com
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55/57Oris Father Time Limited Edition
Praise the Lords for this one. Sorry but when a watch brand flexes its ties with the home of (English at least) cricket, surely it’s better than saying these two have hit this one for six (straight over long on into the MCC members only area). We digress. The cute 40mm size is everything when it comes to Oris’s Big Crown Pointer Date, of which this is a off-spin (sorry again) of. The name is taken from the iconic weathervane at Lord’s. And if you didn’t know what a weathervane was before now, you are not alone. Made of solid bronze, this has family heirloom written all over it. £2,700. At oris.ch
56/57Richard Mille RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal
As if the world wasn’t excited enough to see Rafa Nadal back on a tennis court (hopefully) putting a stop to Novak Djokovic’s dominance at the upcoming Aussie Open, news he’ll likely be wearing his very own new Richard Mille has upped the anticipation levels further still. Nadal is someone who so clearly likes routine, rituals and is oh so particular about things, so wearing Richard Mille watches makes a lot of sense, because the level of detail in these machines is like few others. That and the fact its watches are so unbelievably light that it makes sense to call them athletic in their own right – fitting given Nadal is one of the greatest athletes of all time. POA. At richardmille.com
57/57Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’
In producing 2001’s ‘Do You Really Like It?’, DJ Pied Piper and the merry Master of Ceremonies gave the (UK Garage) world lyrical gold; literally nothing amps up my mood more than hearing “Enter the dragon”. On the subject of gold and dragons, JLC’s new Reverso is a Chinese New Year-inspired beauty, going one better than Pied Piper and enamelling the dragon on the flipside of the watch. Reversos old, new, steel or gold are instantly revered for their design and distinctive shape, and this limited edition successfully continues JLC’s rich vein of form of creating icons only. POA. At jaeger-lecoultre.com
