Food & Drink

Cornerstone restaurant review

Quality over quantity is the motto that Tom Brown has chosen to live by, leaving his position as head chef at The Capital to pioneer this 15-dish affordable hotspot.
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The vibe

Cosy, affordable minimalism Tom Brown – former head chef at The Capital in Knightsbridge – left his position there to develop Cornerstone (named after the Arctic Monkeys’ song, to give you an idea of the vibe) in Hackney Wick. With a seasonal menu of just 15 dishes, this is a definite example of less is more and although he certainly specialises in seafood, that isn’t all Brown does. If you often find yourself overwhelmed by the choice of some menus, then visit Cornerstone, where (on the menu we had) the priciest item was only £16. Cornerstone: restaurant review 3 Prince Edward Road, E9. cornerstonehackney.comCedar Film

After serving his apprenticeship in Cornwall and honing his craft as Nathan Outlaw’s head chef at The Capital in Knightsbridge, this year Tom Brown decided to go it alone and set up his own place. If you wanted to be clever you could say that Brown has gone from Outlaw to sheriff, but that wouldn’t be anywhere near as smart as Brown’s cooking. With money inherited from his grandmother, Brown found a spot in trendy-up-and-coming/grotty-arse-end-of-London (delete as applicable) Hackney Wick and created one of the best, most genuinely exciting and inspiring restaurants in the capital. Offering a small, simple sharing menu in a light and minimalist space with a practical pop-up vibe, Cornerstone (named after an Arctic Monkeys track) is the kind of indie palace that will appeal to foodies and hipsters alike.

Menu highlights

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Where to start? The seasonal menu GQ tried had just 15 items on it… but don’t worry, we only tried around 13 of them. Not only were they all exceptionally good, but the most expensive item clocked in at just £16. As you’d expect from a Cornishman from the Outlaw school, the fish dishes are outstanding. Pickled oysters, fresh from a two-hour soak, with celery and horseradish cream are outstanding. As are the plump hand-dived scallops and the cured monkfish cleverly flavoured with lime pickle and coconut yogurt. All three should be eaten while wearing Hawaiian shorts and a snorkel, for authenticity. The potted shrimp, greased and gorgeous, on a warm crumpet is like a warm and fuzzy seaside supper. And the plaice, served with roasted garlic, mushrooms and grapes would be worth the price of admission alone. And if fish isn’t your thing, there is the incredible, inspired and original lamb Kiev with anchovy and a pea-and-mint puree. It is so good the menu should include a “drool” emoji. Even desserts are great, if you like that sort of thing, but you could just order another Kiev.

The verdict

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A week after GQ’s visit, Tom Brown picked up two trophies at the National Restaurant Awards as the Chef To Watch and the Restaurant To Watch. Forget watching: you need to visit Cornerstone now. We’ll see you there.

For more great places to eat, check out our list of the best restaurants in London.

Cornerstone, 3 Prince Edward Road, Hackney Wick, London E9. 020 8986 3922. cornerstonehackney.com