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Another year, another slate of lovely watches. While the big launches received their praise and publicity, what about the more underrated watches? We wanted to give a shout out to some of them from brands both big and boutique. We'll keep it short and snappy – below are our favourite ‘underrated watches’ of 2024.
With Casio’s G-Shock range of tough as nails watches enjoying something of a resurgence, another iconic digital sports watch has slipped under the radar. A Japan exclusive (but you can order them worldwide, we checked), the 8-Lap is a reissue of the original 80s model that was worn in the White House by Bill Clinton. With a very tasteful ‘Lunette’ shaped case and chronograph, calendar, timer and alarm features, it’s a robust tool watch that you could wear to dinner. £276. At timexjapan.com
Made by hand in Glasgow, Anordain is one of the most interesting indie watch brands operating at the moment. The new Model 3’s crowning feature is the ripple effect textured enamel dial that has been hewn from a block of ash, with a Swiss Sellita movement, along with a nicely-proportioned 39mm case in stainless steel and a leather strap. The sort of watch that starts conversations. £3,590. At anordain.com
What better way to celebrate your 120th birthday than creating a really sick all-black watch? For the big day, Oris has created a take on its signature Diver 65 series, coating the 40mm stainless steel case in matte black DLC and then, for maximum stealthy effect, everything else in sight. £2,150. At oris.ch
Breaking out of enthusiast circles with its much-hyped Swatch collaboration, it’s only fair that we give a little nod to one of the original dive watches. First launched in 1953, the new generation of 50 Fathoms combine a sturdy build (always good) with a rotating bezel, deep-sea performance and, in the instance of the 2024 model, a red gold dial for a bit of extra shine. £15,800. At blancpain.com
A new-ish player in the futuristic sport watch from space genre, Urwerk’s intricate designs have a hint of the Hublot and Richard Mille to them, but for a small Swiss outfit that’s only been in business since 1997, they do pack a punch and you’re unlikely to bump into anyone with the same watch. Launched in October, the UR-150 Scorpion is a dark, impressively intricate watch, with a sand-blasted titanium case that’s ‘only’ 42mm, housing its own meticulously-developed in-house UR-50.01 movement with a flying carousel under a skeletonised dial. Urwerk can definitely hang with the big boys. POA. At urwerk.com
Tudor’s leading Black Bay range is hardly underrated, given its status as a perennial favourite amongst collectors, but some surprises do pop up here and there. With a striking Klein blue dial that pops against a matte black ceramic case and a sporty fabric strap, this edition of one of our favourite watches has the look of a current – and future – grail. £4,420. At tudorwatch.com
It’s not often we’ll see a special edition watch that we’d actually want to wear, but Omega pulled out all the stops for its Paris Olympics model; an elegant dress watch that combines bronze and gold in the case, with a textured silver dial and a vintage Omega insignia on crown. Rather than dream up a sporty, flash in the pan sort of watch, Omega dipped into the archive and referenced a model from 1939. It’s a winner in our eyes. £11,300. At omegawatches.com
Combining a couple of our favourite new trends in watchmaking: the resurgence of retro-inspired digital watches and designs on the smaller side, Hamilton’s PSR 74 is, in our opinion, a subtle improvement on the relaunch of the world’s first digital watch that shocked – and sold bucketloads – back in 1970. Inspired by the Cushion Pulsar model from 1974, it features a dainty 25mm x 30mm case with that unmistakable LCD dial and clean stainless steel integrated strap. A classic watch from the space age era. £695. At hamiltonwatch.com
It’s hard to underrate anything that comes out of the JLC workshop but, amongst the biggest launches of the year, a piece or two can maybe not receive the credit it deserves. A grail to end all grails, the Duometre Chrono Moon has it all: a pink gold case that screams, ‘I have a big chalet in Gstaad, an alligator leather strap, moon phase and chronograph functionality and a dial that looks like it could have been carved by DaVinci. POA. At jaeger-lecoultre.com
Often obscured by the classic GMTs, Cosmographs and DDs, the Sky-Dweller deserves a bit of praise, so we’re going to give it some. Arriving in big money Everose gold with a jubilee bracelet and a unique 24-hour display at the centre of the dial, the Sky-Dweller isn’t a watch for a shy and retiring type, but if you want a piece that shouts ‘THIS IS A NICE ROLEX THAT NOT TOO MANY OTHER PEOPLE HAVE,’ then… well, this might the watch for you. £47,200. At rolex.com