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Before we even get into a debate about what's better – manual watches or automatic watches, let's just clear up exactly what the difference between them actually is.
“In the world of mechanical watches, it all boils down to one of two things: manual winding or automatic? In a manual winding watch you manually turn the crown every day to power it. In an automatic watch, a weight attached to the back of the movement [what we call the rotor] does all the hard work for you!” shares Vincent Brasesco, VP of Sotheby’s Luxury & Watches Specialist. “As you move your wrist around over the course of the day that weighted rotor actually winds the watch for you – so it always keeps time.”
Sounds pretty simple, because it is. But watch purists in collector circles might tell you to do the opposite. “Because you wind the watch yourself, rather than using a power reserve, you build this emotional collection by keeping your watch alive. But it’s not like a Tamagotchi where you have to feed it everyday. A watch today is about convenience,” notes TAG Heuer’s Heritage Director, Nicholas Biebuyck.
So if convenience is your first language, and you were never any good at keeping your Tamagotchi alive, discover this year’s hottest automatic watches that make telling the time the easiest part of your day.
Urwerk UR-230 Polaris
If you’re a fan of dainty dress watches, the full-on visual assault of the new Urwerk UR-130 Polaris might shock you, as the fertile minds of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei make you see wristwear in a completely new perspective. This tech-tastic wonder is the duo's freshest, most poppy creation yet. We rate the layered ceramic composite case of the Polaris, framing an uber-complex micro-machine with a baffling satellite view of the time. Welcome to the future. CHF 150,000. At urwerk.com
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT
With a slogan that could easily read Tools-R-Us, Tudor flipped the styles of the strong Pelagos and Black Bay models this year. The Black Bay reverted to monochrome chic, and the pared-back Pelagos has a new GMT movement and vintage beige to go with its French Aéronautique Navale connection, the aviation component of the French Navy. Fitted with an olive green fabric strap, the titanium 42mm METAS Chronometer goes hard for a £4,000. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Breitling 140th Chronomat
As part of the 140th anniversary trio from Breitling, the solid 18K red gold case of this limited edition of the brawny Chronomat envelops the new Calibre B19. This is the brand’s first perpetual calendar chronograph movement, matched with the strong personality of the Chronomat. The big dog energy of an open-worked dial is framed by a smooth ceramic bezel rocking gold-framed rider tabs. £48,000. At breitling.com
Bulgari Aluminium x Fender
Bulgari might have the market for wafer-thin sports watches cornered with the Octo Finissimo, but we’re all about the laid-back cool of the Aluminium series. It still feels remarkably different on its chunky-limbed rubber and aluminium bracelet, and who can argue with the combo of travel functionality and a rich dollop of Fender-strumming chocolate? Tasty at £3,950. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
Just like Tudor’s BB 41, Omega has reassessed the proven qualities of the Seamaster Diver 300M and distilled its tool watch essence. Born from the last 007 version in titanium, the clean-cut monochrome vibe of the 300M has a new steel mesh bracelet and a no-nonsense attitude to aquatic fun. Refined and rather elegant for its 300m depth rating, the 42mm tool watch blends retro and modern easily. £6,100. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer
Since it's relaunch in 2021, Tissot has really found its mojo with the PRX. The latest version is a hot Manga collab – a vibe we didn’t expect. This time the PRX's accessible appeal is delivered in a UFO-shaped case rocking a totemic lume-laden dial with the image of Robot Grendizer and a weaponised seconds hand. £785. At tissotwatches.com
Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Three Flying Bridges
With a name that kinda spells out exactly what this watch is, it only takes the briefest of glances for you to become captivated by its blingness – and its transparency. The see-through extravagance comes in 18K rose gold on a patterned rubber strap, and the three horizontal bridges (solid gold coated with black satin DLC) affix the movement parts as well as a tourbillon . £146,000. At girard-perregaux.com
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase
Frederique Constant is an underrated Swiss brand that offers elegant and classic everyday watches that don't cost the world. But, it's no one trick pony. It also boasts limited pieces like this white gold Classic Moonphase. With the addition of a vertically cut deep green malachite dial, each watch has its distinct organic personality, a moon phase complication, and a soft green leather strap. EUR 29,995. At frederiqueconstant.com
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium
This summer, Longines dropped a titanium version of the Spirit Zulu Time, a lightweight remake of the fan favourite from a few years ago. The new 39mm grade-5 titanium case features black and gold cues – a combo that made the Tudor Black Bay successful a few years back. Regardless of whether you prefer steel or titanium, one thing's for sure: Longines knows all about aviation watches, and this Pilot piece is only going to grow in popularity. £3,900. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked
Audemars Piguet unveiled its box of new wrist-worn tricks for 2024 earlier this month – and in it was this 41mm selfwinding piece of sandgold. It’s a novel gold alloy whose appearance floats between looking like steel and rose gold depending on the angle. It also boasts an openworked flying tourbillon inside an already grail-worthy model. Some Royal Oak, this. POA. At audemarspiguet.com
Bulgari Bulgari 38mm
While the free-spirited nature of the ’60s and ’70s had a retro effect on watchmaking, aesthetically the influence of the ’80s was just pure glam – as demonstrated by watches like the Bulgari Bulgari. And the Italian’s are back playing with this classic. Its 38mm smooth polished gold case brings with it visions of Wolf of Wall Street excess, which seemed to excite Jeremy Allen White at this year’s Golden Globes. £12,700. At bulgari.com
TAG Heuer Carrera
Deep emerald dials are in again thanks to this new version of the TAG Heuer Carrera 39mm. Sporting the same off-centre style as last year’s Skipper, the radial-brushed dial works well with the vintage-looking sub dial at 3 o'clock and TAG’s new signature Glass Box design. £6,000. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Praesidus Dirty Dozen 1945
The deep, almost plum burgundy, tropical dial of the Praesidus DD45 from British microbrand is a sight to behold. Backed up by the infamous British War Office’s Dirty Dozen backstory where the watches were originally commissioned for the soldiers of WWII, these are tough-guy watches like few others. And they are affordable, too. £687. At praesidus.com
Seiko Presage Classic ‘Araigaki'
Where salmon dials were a calling card for mid-century chrono-grails, the new Seiko Presage Classic ‘Araigaki’ is clean and modern-day equivalent. Forever the go-to brand for cool Japanese watchmaking, Seiko’s Presage series is a worthy little brother to Grand Seiko’s more upmarket offerings. A 40mm case and 100m depth rating make this a solid everyday fave. £900. At seikoboutique.co.uk
Longines Flagship Automatic
If there’s one rule the watch industry never sticks to, it's ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’. The industry loves reissuing a watch, and delving back into yesteryear. But Longines Flagship line does so with purpose, bringing a new generation to old archives. With its lineage dating back to the '50s, this 38.5mm model, (which spoils you for choice in three colourways) and the pizazz of a Moon Phase to show you know your A-Z in complications, is otherwise a no mess, no fuss approach to dress watches, with a sturdy 72-hour power reserve to take you from Friday nights frivolities right through to Monday morning at the desk. £2850. At berrysjewellers.co.uk
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky Dweller
“In the ‘40s and ’50s, automatic watches were not very prevalent. Everything was manually wound, no one even thought about the idea of a power reserve. But then when Rolex conceived the first self-winding wrist chronometer in 1945, it very quickly became dominant. Anything that wasn’t automatic was in decline,” shares watch expert and Heritage Director at TAG Heuer, Nicholas Biebuyck. Putting the A in Automatic, showcase your allegiance to the history books with Rolex's hottest offering of the year so far with this Federer-approved remake of the Sky Dweller that made its debut in 2012. Reconfigured in a new colour palette, from black and white gold, mint green and white Rolesor, this alluring Automatic watch, fit for covering two-time zones, boasts a 72 power reserve in a bold 42mm. If Fed can, we can. POA. At rolex.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
There’s so much more to Jaeger-LeCoultre than a mismatch of pronunciations dependent on who you ask and its grail-worthy Reverso. It’s high-time the Master Control Chronograph Calendar had its moment in the spotlight, and the new rose gold version provides exactly that. A slightly smaller power reserve than its opponents here of 65 hours, let not its smaller capacity deter you. What really makes this Automatic watch one for the wish list is the peephole into its oeuvre. “Automatic watches feature a central winding rotor, and for watches fitted with an exhibition caseback,” shares Boutros. “It’s mesmerising to watch the rotor spinning, seeing it in operation at any time.” Almost hypnotising, one might say. We also love this steel one. £18,300. At jaegerlecoultre.com
Seiko Prospex SJE093
Run, don't walk for this one. It’s the rebirth of Seiko’s first diver’s watch, reborn with a new slimline movement in limited edition. Water resistant to 200 metres, adding a further 50 metres since its launch in the swinging sixties, Seiko updates the fan favourite (the 62MAS for those in the know) by maintaining its staple aesthetic codes, while updating the beating heart of what makes it tick. Power reserve? 45 hours, more than enough time to do a deep dive, and then some. POA. At seikowatches.com
Hermès H08 Monopusher Chronograph
This 41mm x 41mm Automatic timepiece is a watch where worlds collide: from haute couture, sport, and haute horology. Its indistinguishable cushion shape, featuring rounded edges and short lugs, is composed of carbon fibre composite, meaning it's basically lighter than air. With an orange-rimmer pusher, integrated into the crown at 3 o'clock, offering start, stop and reset functions, it really speaks to the allure of an Automatic watch: “by simplifying the ownership experience, versus a manual mechanical watch. As long as it is worn daily or within two or three days (depending on the watch’s power reserve), there’s no need to fuss with winding the watch.” Who said style and function couldn’t live in harmony? POA. At hermes.com
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
Step aside Monaco, there’s a new heritage model in town. Reinventing a classic, TAG Heuer Original Skipperera – à la Skipper and Carrera – takes its colour cues from the winning yacht in the 1967 America’s Cup: the Intrepid. What makes this automatic rebirth not just another watch glancing back to the past? “It pays tribute to the original without being a copy,” shares Brasesco. “The automatic TH20-06 movement is truly excellent, with an 80 hour power reserve powering a chronograph and date – but the star of the show is that dial and glassbox crystal, while the addition of a date window at 6 makes this a great choice for everyday wearing.” It’s smooth sailing for TAG Heuer as it marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera. £5,900. At tagheuer.com
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding
Barbenheimer proves that the money is in the marketing, but subtlety proves just as valuable a currency to AP, who this week silently dropped a new 36mm model to suss out who its real stans are. It’s certainly a more audacious approach to an automatic watch, given its white ceramic material, and silver-tone Grande Tapisserie dial with pink-gold accents. “It’s finely finished, with a superb in-house movement… it’s an automatic watch for those with small wrists or those who prefer smaller watches,” shares Phillips’s Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Americas, Paul Betros. It’s a watch that does all the work for you. It powers itself, and it steals every eye in the room. Small, but mighty. £45,600. At audemarspiguet.com
