Does it feel like time to finally enter the ‘what watch are you wearing’ conversation? If so, welcome to the club. A warning, though: once you're in, it's hard not to become obsessed with these weird and wonderful pieces of precious metal, crystal and whatnot that look so good on your wrist (and also stop you from running late).
Taking that first step can be difficult, and if you get it wrong, can also cost you more of your pie and mash than necessary. So to help, we've draw on our horological nous to curate a list of killer first watches for you to choose from. Faced with the same quandary a decade ago, the options might have been fewer and farer between. But getting into the watch game is easier these days with more brands offering entry-level pieces than ever. From a naughty bit of fancy Frenchness to bullet-proof Japanese divers, you don’t have to spend a fortune to enter the wristwear club – although these bad boys will also get the all-important ‘sound investment, mate’ seal of approval.
For the sports-obsessed
The Formula 1 has been a tempting entry ticket to Swiss sports watches for close to four decades. You don’t have to binge-watch Drive to Survive on Netflix or read our latest interview with Lando Norris to get blown away by its motorsports roots either. As a first dip into Swiss waters (Lake Geneva, anyone?), less than 1500 your English will get you a monochrome sports watch on a bracelet with a goes-with-anything mantra. For a few hundred quid you’ll get a full chronograph, but this 41mm F1 has the three-hand makings of a favourite. With a 200m depth rating, Swiss quartz powertrain, and a near-unbreakable titanium carbide bezel this is a lot of watch for the money. £1,300. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Just like the F1, the G-Shock has evolved from battling the Swatch for the street-cool crown in the '80s, to being valued on par with mechanical wristwear. The slim, mid-blue case of the G-Squad series signals a hidden benefit besides the expected bullet-proof nature of the G. Connect it via Bluetooth and you’ll get some essential fitness tracking too, while still wearing a resin-cased Japanese legend. A multi-functional flyweight watch for, wait for it, £139. At jurawatches.co.uk
Some Swiss all-rounders
A first watch should be able to cross style boundaries, and the juxtaposed nature of the olive green freelancer does exactly that. Why choose between sports or rakish elegance, when you can have both? The clean-cut steel case and tough fabric strap frames a multi-textured dial with touches of HH (Haute Horology, not Helly Hanson lol). There’s a fascinating open balance at 6 o’clock, while Clous de Paris detailing echoes grail watches far above this pricepoint. Get a formal leather strap to swap over, and you’ll have a chameleon of Swiss style for years to come. £1,995. At goldsmith.co.uk
Hamilton has a multinational story to tell, from a US mainstay to the Swiss-crafted brand we know today. The Khaki series is its strongest Top Trump, and our taste for retro is still bordering on insatiable. You don’t have to be a fan of the Interstellar movie to understand the appeal of Matthew McConaughey’s wrist choice, it’s plainly obvious. The Khaki “Murph” does the trick of being timeless with a twist. On a thick leather strap, the monochrome style balances between a field watch and a pilot’s tool, with a subdued beige tone for the details that makes it elegant AF. £920. At goldsmiths.co.uk
For the wannabe diving enthusiast
Seiko is the main reason the Japanese have been making serious imprints on the hot market for diver’s watches, but do we need them? Well, a 200m depth rating doesn’t mean you have to plunge into the depths of the freezing mid-Channel waves, but you could. That feeling of empowerment is strong in the versatile SPB143, inspired by a '60s icon, the 62MAS. With a charcoal dial and brushed bezel, it combines a strong 70-hour automatic movement with suave looks that only gets better with wear. There is a lot to be said for a proper tool watch, each scratch only adding to its charm and your own memories. £1,150. At goldsmiths.co.uk
This turquoise, angular watch is too conspicuous, even too bold for a first watch, surely? We’d be happy to counter that with the fact that a watch today is equally about accentuating your own personality and style as it is time-telling. If you have a strong aversion to Tiffany Blue, DOXA has no less than six other life-affirming colours to choose from including a mad pop of mandarin orange. But the cheer factor of this one paired with angular cushion-cased style might be the start of a long friendship and the acquisition of some SCUBA gear. The intent of its 600m depth rating and crisp, bold graphics might be just the nudge you need to get out of the house. £1,450. At goldsmiths.co.uk
For those with finer tastes
The world is in a state of Cartier-love, and with fit-gods like Tyler, the Creator and Timothée Chalamet rocking French rectangular chic, we’re only happy to indulge you. The Tank Must looks great for your evening suit-up, while inexplicably looking equally perf with jeans and tees. Its slim case is sleekly comfortable, while Cartier’s choice of adding a textured, more casual leather strap has made it into a chameleon of epic proportions. Quartz-peace of mind makes it offer great value, and a great first watch at £2,800. At cartier.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
A Casio has been the first watch for millions and millions of people, for great reasons and a small-cased purity of intent. Any slim steel Casio has crisp legibility mixed with sweet-sized eighties charm for what can only be described as bargain value. The A100WE is a revival of their cult-classic F100 and has the quirky charm of all four function buttons on the front. Looking like a retro-futuristic film prop from Stranger Things, you can’t go wrong with this angular piece of Japan. £49. At jurawatches.co.uk
The first and last – the one and only
While all the choices on this list spell out the dangers of being the gateway drug to a collection of wristwear, what if you're adamant one will be suffice for you for years to come? Indeed, for all you know one watch could outlast you to become a family heirloom. This might involve a larger investment, but we dare say it’ll be worth it, with our choice of ceramic stealth or storied moon-travelled steel.
Tudor keeps knocking proverbial balls out of the park with the Black Bay range and keeps feeding our appetite for vintage. But for a more contemporary take on the ‘60s diver’s watch aesthetic, how about Darth Vader’s choice? The juxtaposition of mid-century stylistic clues with a lightweight micro-blasted, scratch-proof case is rather tempting. Inside there’s a METAS-certified chronometer calibre (basically means it’s well reliable) with a 70-hour power reserve giving you the best of, well, many worlds. The Rolex-family traits are strong while leaning on the dark side of cool proves that black goes with everything. £4,210. At goldsmiths.co.uk
No watch has a stronger backstory ingrained in its brushed steel links than the Omega Speedmaster “Moonwatch” Professional. The name might say it all, but weathering trends and case-size tastes, the 42mm look of the delicately twisted lugs are still recognisable. From '60s black-and-white shots of space travel, not the Oscars pre-party. With carefully evolved features like a Co-Axial chronometer movement and an improved sleek bracelet, the original is still pretty unbeatable. Simply a great sports watch for £6,400. At goldsmiths.co.uk
