Could it be that the sheer breadth of the new 60th anniversary TAG Heuer Carrera collection makes it, by definition, all-encompassing and therefore nigh-on perfect? The aim of the game for celebrating this momentous occasion in history – 60 is the new 100 in the watch world – was clearly to use the famous design, history and iconic name to create a bunch of Carreras not just for the ages, but for everyone. And did TAG succeed?
With the benefit of hindsight and a decent night’s sleep though still swayed by some starry-eyed Ryan Goslingness, the answer seems to be yes. Indeed, when CEO Frédéric Arnault, heritage director Nicholas Biebuyck and movements director (great job title btw) Carole Forestier-Kasapi stood in front of crowds of know-it-all watch enthusiasts and presented all the new creations, the general consensus was a nod of approval. There were a fair few (positive) gasps as releases were unveiled as well as a round of applause that Jack Heuer would have been stoked with.
So why do we reckon TAG Heuer’s latest Carrera-themed offerings are so on the money? For starters, relatively speaking there is a watch for every price point, from the affordable (the rebirth of the Carrera Date 36mm) to the next-level ridiculous (Carrera Plasma Diamant D’Avant-Garde 44mm). Big, small, medium-sized; tourbillons, chronographs, date windows, avant-garde homegrown lab diamond encrusted, you name it. With the arrival of Biebuyck and Forestier-Kasapi has come an even mix of genuine innovation, modern reincarnations of classics and some legit star power. Here, we break down the collection for you.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm
No beating around the bush, the Carrera is among the most recognisable watches ever created. Yes, it shares its name with a much-fancied Porsche but it has an identity and a history in a league of the likes of Patek’s Nautilus, Rolex’s Daytona, Breitling’s Navitimer, Cartier’s Tank, Omega’s Speedmaster and AP’s Royal Oak. The Carrera has spawned more than 500 references in 60 years so devising a way to make it feel new and relevant required something extra special. Like a new TH20 movement inside and a re-designed 39mm ‘glassbox’ case design in blue or a reverse-panda white on black version? At £5,600, the two options negate any complaint of there being too much choice and instead focus on the watchmaking skills used to craft it and the sapphire crystal that’s pushed to the very edge of the case so that the tachymeter scale is legible from all angles. The faceted logs are sexy as, and the overall silhouette feels fresh and modern while still in keeping with the OG from 1963. It also looks really f-ing good on Ryan Gosling’s wrist – and there's more sightings to come next month apparently.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 42mm
What a feisty, racy one you are! For some, bigger is better and three millimetres coupled with an orange ring and go-faster vivid orange touches makes all the difference here (it comes in black and blue, too). It’s the sportier, cooler older brother you aspire to be when you’re younger, and of all the new releases it shouts racing cars at us the most – in a good way. £5,000.
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36mm
Serving up unisex appeal, these bold Date sporty steel types are a gift only given thanks to Biebuyck, Forestier-Kasapi et al doing their homework. Demand for smaller case sizes is on an upward trajectory, so these 36mm are an astute move. The OG was also 36mm so this quartet of Carrera Dates carries extra significance. The refined, new profile retains the racing-inspired vibes and it’s also able to house the upgraded movement too, but the colourful new dials – that is totally Barbie pink – are the real talking point, right? At £2,750, they are the most inexpensive pieces among the 60th anniversary collection, making the timeless appeal of the Carrera even more universally accessible.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon 42mm
Also in the new glass-box case, the new Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon allows us the opportunity to see the new in-house tourbillon movement, the Calibre TH20-09 automatic COSC, in action. While many people often pronounce tourbillon incorrectly, and even more people struggle to explain what one is or does, few people can misapprehend the beguiling beauty and intricacies of the craftsmanship involved in making a tourbillon tick. This two-tone number isn’t shouty as the tourbillon is rather subtly positioned at 6 o’clock, but flip it and the sapphire caseback shows off the vault and movement in a big way. Overall, it’s super racy in its DNA and given how technical it is, £19,950 offers good value for a tourbillon – relatively speaking.
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon 44mm
There’s nothing relative about this last piece. Last year, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma was mind blowing. This year the 2.0 version garners a similar reaction. By harnessing the prowesses of Diamant d'Avant-Garde technology, TAG Heuer is genuinely changing the horological game here. Pushing boundaries and not cracking under pressure has always been TAG Heuer’s thing so maybe we shouldn’t be all that surprised by this development. Innovation and price aside (it's north of half a million Swiss Francs), it’s a special looking watch with a crown that is out of this world, stat. Yet still it manages to remain in keeping with the original Carrera.
