Circular Denim Guideline

Denim is loved across ages, countries, and styles. Denim jeans are the undisputed champion of garments. In the past however, the denim industry has been a massive consumer of water, pesticides, insecticides, energy along with harmful chemicals in dyeing/finishing. Every year millions of Jeans are produced, worn and wasted; The Linear model of fashion. A paradigm shift is the need of the hour to fulfill the crack between fast fashion and circularity. 

“According to Levi Strauss, 3,781 liters of water are used during the production and use phase of one pair of 501® jeans and 33.4 kg of CO2 is created throughout its lifetime”.

This includes cotton growing, jeans processing and home laundering. Is there a future of denim without circularity? We see denim as whole has yet to become circular, but some front-runners are already firmly rooting circularity in their business model. The incorporation of circular economy principles, the denim industry can become sustainable and paves the way for the rest of textiles. Circularity called for fundamental change, right from product circular design, eco-conscious materials, renewable inputs and keeping materials vibrant after use. 

Ever popular Indigo Blue Fabric ‘design philosophy’ is the cornerstone, cascading down the denim performance, social responsibility, biodegradability and climate change. The selection of raw material with due performance is largely governed by the design phase.

In the past several years, fast fashion has faced intense criticism about environmental footprint, so brands have developed their strategies and commitments along with industrial initiatives. The commendable moment is, we already have clear and rational guidelines by ellen macarthur foundation;

“Making jeans that are used more, made to be made again, and made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs”.

Ease of recycle/reuse, use recycled materials, develop to last longer, and biodegradable are the pivotal framework of design. Raw denim is the godfather of all denim. It lends itself perfectly to circularity, needs less water, and doesn't go through industrial processes like others.

"We are happy to see skinny jeans slowly making an exit from the wardrobes of the masses - if not for their unforgiving silhouette, then for their stretchiness, which is a major barrier when it comes to circularity"Jade Wilting, Project Coordinator Textiles Programme

A.  Minimum 98% Cellulose based

Denim is made to be remade, by weight it should minimum 98% cellulose based, mono-material prioritize over multi, because to align with available recycling techniques. So that denim is practically recycled after use.

B. Removable buttons, zipper and rivets

All the components other than fabric, should be easily removable, to support the recycling process. A considerable fabric loss is faced, where easily detachable components are not applied. We don't condone quick changing trends, resulting in obsolete fashion monthly, but are excited about extending demand for reusable denim.  

C. Denim should has a good physical and emotional life

Garment tensile strength, dimensional stability, seam strength and abrasion resistance able to resist 30 home washes, ensuring a minimum benchmark as new.  How long does fabric, wash, style, look remain in course in a fast-paced fashion era? Life cycle expectancy of jeans is 2/3 years according to the International Fabric Institute Fair Claims Guide. Designers have to take into account the jeans emotional life, for a signal user/reuse.

The denim industry can’t go along its current production path, a resource thirsty and high levels of pollution. As long as the supply chain of denim continues to change, brands and consumers need more sustainable products, without compromising the feel, look, they love about. Technological advancement in process and new methods innovations have mitigated the environmental and human impacts, but a cleaner denim is inadequate; a circular one is desired. Both intentionally and unintentionally used substances often remain in textile. This raises serious concerns about adverse impacts on humans and ecosystems.

“Every second, the equivalent of a rubbish truck load of clothes is burnt or buried in landfill”.

The popularity and variety of denim, including different harmful chemicals and poor working practice in production, and waste often directly jump into rivers and several health issues.

D. Use chemical compliant ZDHC level 1

ZDHC provides a framework for all the stakeholders, chemical supplier, manufacturer and brands, with a pre well-rounded Manufacturing Restricted Substance List. All the denim manufacturing chemicals comply with ZDHC level 1, these chemicals are not limited to production used only, but also lubes, maintenance, cleaning and support also. 

E. 30 Liters water per meter fabric

Water scarcity is becoming one of the world’s greatest challenges. It is also estimated that 20% of industrial water pollution is associated with garment manufacturing, and 85% of that is associated with dyeing processes. Nowadays, fabric producers are digging out ways and schemes to be more environmentally friendly like; quick wash down fabric, laser friendly fabric, zero discharge dyeing, Water<Less® etc. Adapting the new techniques and solutions, producers are conserving freshwater intake by close looping, recycling or reusing the same water in the production line, drastically reducing freshwater needs. The water use per meter of fabric should not be more than 30 liters.

F. Exercise advance technologies

Conventional denim finishing techniques have adverse effects not limited to the ecosystem but human health also at risk. It is possible to achieve the same designs and overall look of denim while saving water, energy, time, and/or chemicals throughout the process. The use of stone, bleach, PP, sand blasting is prohibited. Adapting the latest technologies like Ozone, Nanobubbles, Laser, Abrasive Drum, will not only secure the planet but humans too.

G. Recycled or renewable materials

Including the recycled materials in denim plays a pivotal role in providing a holistic approach in the supply chain. 53 million tones of clothing is produced, 97% of which consist of virgin fiber, 73%  of all clothing after use either incinerated to disposed of landfills, an alarming situation for humans. The linear mode is primarily responsible for a major share of global environmental burdens that are already beyond safe limits.  

Previous research conducted by Circle Economy and G-Star showed that by including 12% recycled content in a pair of jeans, water usage decreased by 9.8%, energy consumption by 4.2% and the CO2 footprint by 3.8%.

Now, we can imagine what would be an impact of 50% or even more.

H. Renewable energy 

Carbon management and renewable energy are the key aspects in closed loop denim, manufacturers have to measure energy use, GHG emissions and strategies to regulate it. The Carbon Trust reports that almost half of the CO2 emissions embodied in global

clothing production arises from the generation of electricity. The meteoric demand of “Fast Fashion” has contributed to even substantial depletion of fossil fuels, and resultant carbon generation.  CO2 emissions can significantly reduce, adding renewable energy in mix, producers and retailers setting up renewable goals.

“Levi Strauss has set science-based targets for itself. The company intends to achieve a 90 percent reduction in greenhouse gas emissions and use 100 percent renewable energy throughout its facilities, as well as reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 40 percent throughout its global supply chain by 2025.”

An American buys 4 Jeans annually, the average man owns 6/7 pairs of jeans, which clearly means how quickly the wardrobe shuffles again and again. In the jeans life cycle, consumers account for 40% of climate change and 23% of water used in a whole life cycle. Across the industry, disposal is a major issue; Half of the garments made are burned or buried within one year. That is why we have to expand consumer awareness about how denim lasts a long time in service, how to wash, repair and donate after use. 

The fashion industry contributes to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions.

Denim brands and retailers continuously present a definitive consumer guide primarily decided by experts. A consumer can adapt to a win-win strategy by following these customer guides, that help fit better, look better and last longer.

I. Wash less, line dry

Wash your denim jeans a very few times a year, wash once every 10 wears at most. “A pair of jeans that hasn’t been washed for a year doesn’t contain much more bacteria than jeans that haven't been washed in a week. And not all bacteria are bad for us”. Washing with cold water and line dry is best suited to avoid GHG in the consumer phase.

J. Repair/ upcycle of denim

Denim is easy to repair and even looks more beautiful after repair, saving money is a surplus advantage. Many of us feel happy to pay more for jeans worn and torn, but it seems many customers do not find repairing an actual solution. Peer to Peer exchange or second user is also a way to improve ecosystem health. People's favorite denim, many up-cycles even do not involve sewing, so simple for all ages and abilities. As a last resort, denim recycling should be done to use materials again.