"GHOST KITCHENS - a passing Craze or here to stay?" + Op-ed's by Prof. Dr. Willy Legrand "The Kitchen is Dead! Long live the Kitchen!"
Will the ‘Ghost Kitchen’ Trend Continue After COVID-19? Ghost kitchens - Innovation or Craze? and its impact on our environment…
As an independent hotelier & developer together with dedicated associates of the CoutureHospitalityConcept team I had the privilege & the pleasure over the past 4 decades to open & manage more than 20 hotels in about 16 countries around the globe. and already some 20 year ago we founded HoteliersGuild, a non-profit private society of discerning hoteliers, by invitation only, with a pledge to sustainable luxury in our industry.
The COVID-19 viral outbreak may be an unprecedented crisis that has ravaged through most parts of the world —and the global food and beverage industry in particular, and we are looking at challenging times ahead.
You may have heard of our most recent HoteliersGuild initiative called EXTRAVAGANZAculinaire, the premiere virtual Gourmet Safari, which was in fact “inspired” by Corona and had approx. 30.000 viewers so far.
In my foreword to Vol. III I said that our event showed that there is so much untapped ‘virtual potential and space for both, virtual experiences as well as the in-person hospitality. I asked members to join me to think of how we can push these ideas further? For example, can we create a virtual restaurant concept that can be a partner business to our traditional concepts? Of course, restaurateurs have to serve and take care of real people. But if this cannot be done in-person, one has to figure out other ways and means…right? For many of our colleagues, restaurateurs and/or hotel restaurants alike, take-out concepts have been the only way of survival during the the time of Covid-19.
So, after this introductory notes, let me set the stage for you by structuring this presentation as follows:
- GhostKitchens - what they are, why they are here & pros & cons
- After the Virus Pandemic, we’re facing the Plastic Pandemic
- Some Sustainable solution scenarios - Farm2Table and the Renaissance of Hotel Restaurants
Now, what the heck is in fact a Ghost Kitchen and what’s the hype surrounding it ???
It all started with the Millennials and the Gen Z-ers - tech-savvy generations shifting the prototype of businesses towards a virtual world. Trends like virtual gaming and virtual shopping paved the way for the “virtual” restaurants. Essentially, a ghost kitchen (aka “virtual kitchen” or “cloud kitchen”) is a rented kitchen space where restaurateurs can open a restaurant or a brand without a brick and mortar location. These “restaurants” don’t even need to have a physical address, mostly they are simply an app on your smartphone. They are purely virtual businesses that are specially designed for food delivery and outsource the preparation of their meals to canteen kitchens. Food is delivered through intermediaries such as Deliveroo, Foodora and Co. and numerous investors already believe in this segment. And while our classic hotel restaurants and also independent restaurants struggle with high expenses for local rent, FF&E and of course cooking and service staff, the cost factor for virtual restaurants is incomparably lower.
In our post COVID-19 world, restaurants of all types will have to take a long hard look in the mirror to decide what the next chapter is. It may well be that this catastrophe is triggering a shift in guest behaviour that may be beneficial to those who make the right decisions now!
Mind you, it’s not even necessary to become 100% virtual in order to enjoy the benefits of a ghost kitchen. Some of our colleagues concluded that the best approach is a hybrid which allows them to test the waters without full committment or losing their restaurants physical presence. If the tide starts rapidly changing to virtual-only, they’ll find themselves in a strategically advantageous position.
A classic restaurant could easily integrate a cloud kitchen! How: Take for example Chicago’s Oyster Bah - a seafood diner. Packed every day, it’s not oysters bringing in the big money — it’s the ribs. Oyster Bah is home to a ghost kitchen by the name of Seaside, which offers ribs and fried chicken to consumers through 3rd party delivery apps like Grub Hub and Uber Eats.
In order to increase sales at the restaurant, the owner knew he needed to think outside its walls. With all seats being taken, his production could have been much higher but he was restricted by the restaurants small space. So the question was, how to increase efficiency without adding more seats?
The answer: delivery. But not just Oyster Bah delivery—that was already happening. Rather, he wanted to create a restaurant-within-a-restaurant that would offer items customers couldn’t get at Oyster Bah. With that, Seaside’s was born. The carryout/delivery-only outfit serves ribs, fried chicken, lobster, and sides, which are delivered by the restaurant delivery service DoorDash and Grubhub. The owner says: “The real trick when you open a business, either beside or in the same market as an existing business is, you don’t want to cannibalize your own consumer,” It’s never more evident than when the two businesses share a spot.”
So, let’s look at some Benefits & Challenges of Virtual Restaurants:
Pros
1) Obviously, they have a much Lower Overhead Cost - no storefront & digital updating of their offerings/no printed menus
2) They Meet and Exceed Online Ordering Demand as they can exist on the websites of multiple delivery services, such as GrubHub or DoorDash, in addition to an in-house delivery system.
3) They provide Quick Start-Up Opportunities as they do not need to be located in a highly trafficked location and owners can save money and rent an unassuming building without a need for large signage or foot traffic.
Some Cons
1) Engineering Meals for Delivery You’ll need to make sure your food is packaged in a way that will keep it intact for deliveries. Very unsustainable & addressed later in more detail.
2) They eliminate the Touchpoints Between Restaurant & Customermeaning customers will not have the opportunity to pass your restaurant on the street and inquire about it.
3) Their reliance on online Reputation as more and more consumers are searching through the reviews to decide where they will eat next. Operating entirely online means your reputation lives online as well, and one bad Yelp review can significantly bring down your average rating.
4) High Commissions of up to 30% for Companies like UberEats, Postmates, DoorDash, and GrubHub
So, bottom line - what is it? Top Or Flop? It’ll be exciting to see how the success of virtual restaurants will impact restaurant storefronts and also what new apps will be created for this new food trend.
But whichever way you look at it, ghost, virtual or delivery-only restaurants - these business models for food to-go are here to stay! Why? Because its big business!
In this II. Second section, let’s highlight THE PLASTIC Packaging PANDEMIC
The recent lockdowns have led to a boom in e-commerce. In March, as parts of Europe and America shut up shop, some 2.5bn customers have visited Amazon’s website, a 65% increase on last year. In China, more than 25% of physical goods were bought online during the first quarter of the year.
Some bullet points for a better understanding:
- Online purchases come wrapped in plastic—and the bad kind at that - and often packaged in plastic comprising several layers - nearly impossible for recycling.
- All portions, sauces etc. are individually packed and beverages come, of course, also in plastic bottles, preferably for single use.
- Tendencies to recycle materials that can be reused is diminishing.
- First-quarter sales at Uber Eats, one of America’s biggest restaurant-delivery apps, for example, rose by 54% year on year.
- Latex gloves and disposable face masks add to the disaster
Coming to section III. let’s put the focus on some potential sustainable solution scenarios in a short outlook
After a two-month delay, the EU Commission unveiled its Farm to Fork and Biodiversity strategy in late May with the aim of creating a more ‘robust, secure, and sustainable food system’.
According to the Commission this is the “first time in the history of EU food policy that we propose a comprehensive agenda for all stages of food production”.
Sounds good to me, as the strategy sets concrete targets to reach by 2030, including a 50% cut in the use and risk of pesticides, a 20% cut in the use of fertilizers, a 50% reduction in sales of antimicrobials used for farmed animals and aquaculture, and a target to increase the size of EU's agricultural land dedicated to organic farming to at least 25%. And it basically also supports the Farm2Table concept.
The EcoCaterers Organisation explains the differences between Farm2Table and Sustainable Food. Whilst both concepts are meant to help the environment — what do they ask, of us, as the consumers and of our guests?
Farm to table restaurants stock their kitchens directly from local farms or their own gardens, and educate diners about the stages of the food cycle and the effects that their choices have on people, animals, economies and the planet.
Sustainable Food in essence, refers to food production (plant or animal) that ensures that the environment, the land, the communities, and the people are protected. The concept is meant to protect biodiversity and aims to allow healthy ecosystems to flourish.
So what Are the Benefits of Both?
Though the ideas of the farm to table and sustainable food movements are different, they share many similarities. At the forefront, the idea is to create a good food system that is beneficial to humankind (both present and future).
Various of our partner HoteliersGuild members, like for example our friend Paul Jones of the LUX*Collective and their SALT brand in Mauritius, Jason Friedman of the ShintaMani retreats …., are, in fact, using the above concepts very successfully in their properties - a win-win situation for all the concerned, and of course a great marketing tool!
And finally - will this crisis cause a Renaissance for Hotel Restaurants?
Speaking from experience in all of our hotels, we paid great attention to sourcing the best Chefs and to provide highest quality cuisine - not only to of course satisfy our resident guests, but to attract outside diners and to use our F&B operation as a strong marketing & sales tool…I think it’s a good time to promote in-hotel restaurants, and I am absolutely convinced that if we do it really well - and particularly in this situation, I believe people are feeling a lot safer in hotels. Both locals and tourists will be looking very closely at everything over the next year and beyond where they are staying, and where they want to dine, especially where hygiene and acceptable social distancing availability is concerned. Guest will find trust and faith in the strong brands. They’ll prefer to stay in their cocooning little bubble instead of running out the door and enjoy the excellent facilities, the produce and products and the reputation of our hotels. Think back 20 or more years ago, when all the best restaurants were all in hotels. A great opportunity for younger entrepreneurs and chefs to start something new and to feed on the now ready market - we can capture back a nice chunk of business!
Coming to the end, let me go back to the question that was raised at the beginning - are Ghost Kitchens a Craze? Will the trend last?
Well, while they have both benefits and drawbacks, many believe the trend is here to stay, especially considering new research from the National Restaurant Association that shows a whopping 60% of restaurant meals are now consumed off-premises.
However, it does not change our opinion regarding its negative impact on our environment. As long as no solution is being found for the plastic pandemic caused by the totally unsustainable packaging & distribution methods of this concept, we are very sceptical, to say the least. The responsibility to create a workable recycling/reusing concept should fairly and equitably fall on the shoulders of all stakeholders - consumer, restaurant, distributor. Unless this issue is addressed in a suitable manner (not window dressing) we consider this venture a somewhat false economy!
We definitely prefer our sustainable approach, and I personally would encourage Chefs to pursue to broaden their horizon and for example also explore what the insect cuisine has to offer - but that’s for a different speech and I thank you for attending this event! Stay healthy & confident!
Op-ed by Prof. Dr. Willy Legrand: The Kitchen is Dead! Long live the Kitchen!
In a recent research conducted by McKinsey & Company on Reimagining European restaurants for the next normal, the authors argued that the food and beverage sector must “embrace innovation in their channel strategy, menu offerings, and business model” (Khan et al., 2020). And the 2020 COVID-19 health crisis has triggered a multitude of opportunities to boost innovations in products, services and systems, as crises often do (e.g. Clark, 2020; Rigby, Hollander, 2020; Elk and Berez, 2020). From click and collect channel strategy or made to delivery and meal kits, many restaurant innovations, which have been around already but often operating in a niche segment or with a slow uptake, suddenly became a ‘must have’ simply to remain in business during the months of lockdown.
Ghost kitchens (also labelled as ‘dark or shared kitchens’, ‘delivery-only kitchens’, ‘cloud kitchens’ or ‘virtual kitchens’) is one of those innovations which became, almost overnight, a pillar to food supply in urban environments. In those same urban centers, operating a stand-alone restaurant has become extremely challenging for a multitude of reasons and most notably high operational and financial gearing due to heavy lease agreements, licensing and regulatory requirements and labour costs. The lockdown has exacerbated the situation and laid bare the fragile restaurant foundations with many operators wondering how to stay in business. The situation post-lockdown remains dire, where a 50% occupancy in restaurants is the new ‘100%’, a recent norm due to distancing regulations. So with this in mind, how can one compensate that missing 50% occupancy? Certainly menu pricing, loyalty programmes and off-peak offers are all important topics. Additionally, customer experience such as personalised digital offers or in-app ordering continues to play a very important role in restaurant recovery. However, there are great expectations for digital orders and delivery of out-of-home food with an expected growth rate three times that of in-restaurant sales by 2023 (Steingoltz & Picciola, 2019). Strong from flexibility in changed market conditions, and alongside the already established food trucks and pop-up restaurant, ghost kitchens and virtual restaurants may become a new gastronomy reality, where “the branding and food are real, but the restaurants do not exist elsewhere in the physical world” (Wiener, 2020). With easy order and payment processing, perceived shorter waiting time and along with better packaging that ensures an adequate sensory experience once the food has travelled from the ghost kitchen to one’s own four walls, this seems to be a dream come true for many who ditched home-cooking a long time ago (Hanbury, 2018) but a challenge to traditional restaurant owners (Loizos, 2019).
The challenges are, as in so many cases when innovation disrupts established markets or operating procedures, multi-fold on the sustainability front. Recently, in an article published in the New Yorker, a video made in a mega Ghost Kitchen unit was discussed which “depicted line cooks packed into a windowless warehouse, yelling over the sounds of tablets and phones chiming with order alerts” (Wiener, 2020, para 10). The author concluded that “as in most restaurants, the apparition is for customers; the ghosts are the workers themselves” (Wiener, 2020, para 10). Chefs and cooks may still have work, albeit under difficult conditions, the need for any front staff, from cashier to wait staff and managers, is eliminated with related socio-economic impact in communities. On the other hand, a fleet of drivers and riders are needed to handle food deliveries. However, those gig economy jobs are often precarious with low wages, high workload, issues with personal safety while delivering food and relatively low job satisfaction (Li et al., 2020). Consequently, countries are trying, with mixed results, to implement legislation to improve the rights of those workers (e.g. EU, 2019). On the environmental front, the argument can be made that ghost kitchens ensure an optimal use of real estate by maximising the output per square meter, thus optimising the energy usage for heating, cooling and ventilating space. However, a research conducted by Li, Mirosa and Bremer during the COVID-19 outbreak on the impact of online food delivery platforms on sustainability revealed that the carbon footprint of delivery is in fact high (2020). Additionally, the generation of waste, plastic in particular, is significant.
Packaging waste resulting from food delivery is an environmental hazard. While the ‘fight on single-use plastics’ had shown its first result pre COVID-19 with large hotel chains banning items from rooms and food and beverage outlets, the clock is being reversed at an alarming rate. In China’s mega cities where food delivery has experienced a rapid increase over the past five years, the volume of packaging waste increased from 0.2 million metric tons in 2015 to a staggering 1.5 million tons by 2017, a stunning seven time fold in two years (Song et al., 2018). With the COVID-19 outbreak, the use of disposable single-used plastic has increased on the argument that single use packaging meets higher sanitation standards and is thus more hygienic (Neo, 220). However, there is no scientific consensus on this particular issue and a study published in The New England Journal of Medicine in April of 2020 came to the conclusion that if plastic surfaces are not properly cleaned, “the virus can remain viable and infectious in aerosols for hours and on surfaces up to days” (van Doremalen et al., 2020, 1567) suggesting that single use plastics may not be as safe as first thought. In terms of circular approach to waste management, recycling packaging waste is only as good as the availability of recycling facilities in individual countries. Additionally, food delivery packaging is frequently soiled with food residues and thus often discarded in regular trash bins. Depending on the country, municipal waste is either sent to landfills, incinerated or simply dumped or burned illegally. In all cases, the environmental impact is considerable. This is particular worrying since plastics and in particular micro- and nano plastics (i.e. plastics bags and bottle breaking down in tiny fragments too small for the eye) not only have a proven negative impact on the fauna and flora but the latest study presented at the American Chemical Society found that micro- and nanoplastics are detectable in human organs and tissue including lungs, liver and kidneys (ACS, 2020). While scientists are not certain of the health hazards due to plastics making its way into human bodies, “search in wildlife and animal models has linked micro- and nanoplastic exposure to infertility, inflammation and cancer” (ACS, 2020, para 4).
Another waste associated with deliveries from ghost kitchen is spent batteries (thus consigned to waste with a majority being lead-acid batteries) used in electric bikes as well as the energy required to charge electric vehicles. While studies are still scarce on the topic, a research conducted in China found that energy required to charge food delivery vehicles and bikes (with coal as electricity source) plus the energy needed for the treatment of packaging waste resulted in 73.89 Gigatons of carbon dioxide equivalent in 2016 alone (Jia et al., 2018). The authors discuss the energy – emission –waste nexus of food deliveries.
The last aspect is related to food waste. Here too, there is scarcity in the scientific literature on the impact of ghost kitchens on food waste management. Arguably a lot of the food waste issues are ‘outsourced’ or ‘externalised’ to the consumers who tend to over purchase while using an app or website to order and consequently discard the uneaten food (Li et al., 2020). There is a counter argument to which ghost kitchens are more efficient at preparing food although here too, supporting evidence is scarce (Li et al., 2020). Food waste is also ‘planned’ via minimum price for free deliveries practice enticing consumers to order more in order to reach that free delivery amount threshold (Li et al., 2020). Another aspect playing a role is the difficulty for consumers to assess the aromas, portion size or the taste while ordering online (li et al., 2020); all those elements play a critical role when dining in a physical restaurant. Some research shows that consumers ordering food deliveries easily disregard food due to poor taste or unexpected large portions (Li et al., 2020). This is not to say that food waste is not an issue in physical restaurants, but it is equally an issue in a ghost kitchen environment.
The challenges are, as in so many cases when innovation disrupts established markets or operating procedures, multi-fold on the sustainability front. Recently, in an article published in the New Yorker, a video made in a mega Ghost Kitchen unit was discussed which “depicted line cooks packed into a windowless warehouse, yelling over the sounds of tablets and phones chiming with order alerts” (Wiener, 2020, para 10). The author concluded that “as in most restaurants, the apparition is for customers; the ghosts are the workers themselves” (Wiener, 2020, para 10). Chefs and cooks may still have work, albeit under difficult conditions, the need for any front staff, from cashier to wait staff and managers, is eliminated with related socio-economic impact in communities. On the other hand, a fleet of drivers and riders are needed to handle food deliveries. However, those gig economy jobs are often precarious with low wages, high workload, issues with personal safety while delivering food and relatively low job satisfaction (Li et al., 2020). Consequently, countries are trying, with mixed results, to implement legislation to improve the rights of those workers (e.g. EU, 2019). On the environmental front, the argument can be made that ghost kitchens ensure an optimal use of real estate by maximising the output per square meter, thus optimising the energy usage for heating, cooling and ventilating space. However, a research conducted by Li, Mirosa and Bremer during the COVID-19 outbreak on the impact of online food delivery platforms on sustainability revealed that the carbon footprint of delivery is in fact high (2020). Additionally, the generation of waste, plastic in particular, is significant.
Another waste associated with deliveries from ghost kitchen is spent batteries (thus consigned to waste with a majority being lead-acid batteries) used in electric bikes as well as the energy required to charge electric vehicles. While studies are still scarce on the topic, a research conducted in China found that energy required to charge food delivery vehicles and bikes (with coal as electricity source) plus the energy needed for the treatment of packaging waste resulted in 73.89 Gigatons of carbon dioxide equivalent in 2016 alone (Jia et al., 2018). The authors discuss the energy – emission –waste nexus of food deliveries.
The last aspect is related to food waste. Here too, there is scarcity in the scientific literature on the impact of ghost kitchens on food waste management. Arguably a lot of the food waste issues are ‘outsourced’ or ‘externalised’ to the consumers who tend to over purchase while using an app or website to order and consequently discard the uneaten food (Li et al., 2020). There is a counter argument to which ghost kitchens are more efficient at preparing food although here too, supporting evidence is scarce (Li et al., 2020). Food waste is also ‘planned’ via minimum price for free deliveries practice enticing consumers to order more in order to reach that free delivery amount threshold (Li et al., 2020). Another aspect playing a role is the difficulty for consumers to assess the aromas, portion size or the taste while ordering online (li et al., 2020); all those elements play a critical role when dining in a physical restaurant. Some research shows that consumers ordering food deliveries easily disregard food due to poor taste or unexpected large portions (Li et al., 2020). This is not to say that food waste is not an issue in physical restaurants, but it is equally an issue in a ghost kitchen environment.
Despite the issues raised above, off-premise dining is on the rise (NRA, 2019) and ghost kitchens will continue to play a role particularly for a generation of consumers that enjoy the flexibility of consuming food anytime and anywhere. And while it may be difficult for consumers to check on the food provenance when ordering from ghost kitchens, it does not say that transparency cannot be guaranteed. In a world where consumers increasingly value the sustainability of the food, from origins to transformation (Khan et al., 2020) and where health and wellbeing play an important role in food consumption, ghost kitchens’ stance on their sourcing policy, transformation practices and work etiquette should be provided. Food delivery companies must have a clear plan for the implementation of various emission reduction activities and carbon offsetting plans as steps towards carbon neutrality. Governments are called to set the accepted minimum standard on all those topics and consumers have the duty to demand greater transparency.
There is one last aspect not considered in the discussion surrounding ghost kitchens. It is the role assumed by neighbourhood restaurants in creating bonds between members of a community. It is where acquaintances become friends, individuals become partners or professionals strike a deal; all around a table in a safe environment. Stand alone or hotel restaurants are more important than ever. It is only when they are gone that many will understand what is missing.
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