A Hidden Pearl
A ferocious civil war, lasting 16 years, brought my frequent visits to Mozambique to an abrupt end. That was over four decades ago when I was roughly the same age as my six-year-old daughter is today. I recall crying tears of sorrow when I was told we could not go back.
All I have left of these earlier times are the fondest memories of glorious holidays. Back then, it was fairly common for those living in Rhodesia to cram their cars with kids and other obligatory beach accessories and venture over the Vumba Mountains to the port of Beira. We spent summers being kissed by the sun, splashing happily in the shallows, and building elaborate sandcastles.
It was only in the mid-'90s that I returned to Mozambique. Both times it was brief sojourns to gingerly transit through the infamous Tete corridor. Taking this shortcut through what my university buddies and I coined, the “armpit of the world", was worth the risk, as we pushed further north to explore Malawi. Those were the days of random roadblocks manned by AK47 wielding Mozambican “officials”, who confiscated passports and demanded extortionary US dollar bribes to obtain passage. Being poor straggly students on shoe-string budgets, we got away with bartering off cigarettes, sneakers, and music cassette tapes.
I returned again in 2003 with my fiancé. This time flying into Inhambane but heading to Tofo Beach in search of whale shark and manta ray in the Mozambique Channel. We stayed at the now-extinct Bamboozie backpackers, known for a cheap beer with a view and its all-night parties. I can confirm we found the festivities and spent hours with majestic alien-like creatures, 20 meters below the surface at Manta Reef.
In August 2020, our planned holiday to Greece was cancelled and had to be unraveled because of the Coronavirus pandemic. To avoid a similar disappointment in 2021, we decided to stay closer to home. We picked Mozambique, which is said to have earned the title “The pearl of the Indian Ocean”. We figured that ten days in the Bazaruto Archipelago would be the perfect way to nurse the post-traumatic stress suffered from covid confinement and recent social unrest in our home country of South Africa.
This archipelago is a protected national marine reserve consisting of five sandy islands. They lie within a 40-kilometer boat ride from the sleepy mainland town of Vilankulos. Tourist facilities on these low-key idyllic drops in the Indian Ocean do not come cheap and are geared for barefoot luxury.
I hoped to rekindle some childhood memories and create new ones with my family. Both my wife and I consider ourselves beach connoisseurs, who have widely scoured the planet for the best stretches of sand and sea. The Bazaruto Archipelago was missing from our repertoire, so we took the opportunity to escape to this East African Eden.
Fate and blessing would lead us to Benguerra, the second largest island in the group. The island is covered by large sand dunes, has sections of indigenous casuarina pine forest, and is filled with freshwater lakes, which serve as the nesting ground for flocks of black-winged Flamingos. Benguerra is also home to herds of shy red Duiker antelope, prolific birdlife, exotic butterflies, and freshwater crocodiles.
One should not expect the isolated pockets of indulgence of the Maldivian variety. This is authentic Mozambique, with a permanent human population of about 1800 locals, living simply, in small villages dotted along the coast and scattered in the island interior. Nor should one presume the bustle of activity of a Mauritian resort, complete with multiple restaurants, a kids club, and a round of golf. There are four unobtrusive lodging options for holidaymakers on Benguerra. We chose the intimate laid-back 20 villa Azura Benguerra Island, which extends a genuine and personal service.
On arrival, we were graciously welcomed with chilled scented face cloths to cool our brows and proffered sweetened iced-tea on a silver tray. As we cast our eyes to the gloriously setting sun sinking below the horizon, we watched the silhouette of a porter chain wading from our boat, calf-deep in water with our retrieved luggage hoisted on their heads.
Upon polite introductions, Chelsie the general manager presented us with a useful piece of advice. "This is an island, don't worry about the sand and water, it gets everywhere". This guidance was warmly embraced by both parents, as we were busy reigning in our children. They were scampering around the newly varnished decks with sandy wet feet, acquired during their coming ashore from the transfer boat.
Nothing is too much trouble for the exceptional Azura hospitality team. They happily go out of their way to cater to your every whim, and just as important, also know when to leave you alone. Mino our host for the entire time there, had the nature of an angel; strong, kind, caring, and patient. He fitted in well with our 6 and 7-year-olds who were intrigued by everything.
Azura is developed on the island's north west coast at the actual site of the old Gabriel's backpacker hostel. One of Gabriel's old shacks is preserved as a reminder of its humble beginnings. The re-development and investment into the property were made by Chris and Stella Bettany, a South-African/British couple. In return, Azura is a party to the Special Operators License that allows the lodge to offer its sophisticated facilities in this rich part of East African paradise.
Nestling beautifully into island life, Azura demonstrates perfectly how sustainable tourism should be undertaken. Even before opening the lodge, the Bettany's had built a school with teachers' quarters and set up the Rainbow Fund charity for the villagers. Along with their luxury lodge neighbours AndBeyond, Azura has co-funded a much-needed clinic and it is the only place that offers basic healthcare to the islanders. In addition, Azura source their seafood and vegetables from the island's inhabitants and have cultivated an ecosystem of small local businesses around them. The lodge itself currently employs some 170 staff.
Our typical day started with a beach wander in the milky early morning light; finding shells, chasing crabs, and watching the fishermen ply their trade. Brilliant blue and yellow kingfishers diving for their breakfast were regular sunrise visitors, as were white-breasted cormorants, tall grey herons, stumpy legged pelicans, and the elegant great ibis. We spotted local village children rolling on the sand, giggling in each other's arms and they would call after us, as their mothers collected sand oysters in woven baskets made from lala palms.
A very large daily tidal variation on Benguerra affects most of island life. At first, I was bothered by the inconvenience of limited access to ocean swimming for part of the day. However, as the shoreline moved with the tides, I soon learned to appreciate the incredibly beautiful and ever-changing landscape that it created. Every day, the retreating sea across the archipelago exposes countless sand spits and tiny isles of pearl-white sand that emit swirls of undulating shades of sapphire, indigo, and aquamarine.
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There are more than enough activities to keep one busy at Azura. Deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, island hopping, kayaking, standup paddling, dune exploring, dhow cruises, horse riding, island soccer, private picnics, and the well-spent lunch days at the oh-so-eco-chic Peri-Peri beach club. However, if it is in one’s preference, a different approach could be taken. Such as one embraced by a couple we met from the Mediterranean. They made us laugh when we asked them over post-dinner bar banter what they were doing the next day. The answer was a matter of fact "Nothing of course!".
There are so many things to rave about and recommend. One of my highlights was our day trip to Paradise Island where we explored the abandoned ruins of the once glorious 250 roomed Santa Carolina Hotel. The hotel was abandoned in 1973 when business owner, Joaquim Alves, fearing the worst, fled the country just before independence. The increasingly deteriorating shell later served as a military base for FRELIMO, the local freedom fighters, during the civil war. After that, it was left solely to the mercy of storms and cyclones.
While on Paradise Island we were afforded the prospect of chalking up more marine sightings along the pristine house reef. Imagine a kaleidoscope of colour, with fish shoals numbering in the 1000's, then add dolphins, turtles, eels, rays, sharks, breaching humpback whales, and a dugong. Yes, true story. My wife actually caught a privileged glimpse of the extremely rare and ever-elusive dugong. Performing such adventurous activities works up an appetite.
A white-themed picnic meal is very welcome around mid-day. The lunch was perfectly set up on a deserted stretch of beach, under a large sun umbrella with a table and four chairs, linen cloth and napkins, silverware and glasses, and an icebox filled with drinks. As we dined beneath screen-saver blue skies, it was almost impossible to believe where we were. I had to pinch myself and my wife to ensure that we were not dreaming.
However, not all is well in paradise. It seems it is not only the reefs that need to be protected but the delicate relationships that support them. Some factors threaten the lodge operators. This time it is not civil war, nor is it random individual men armed with AK47s. This time it official government bodies demanding insight into the operational running of the lodges and punitive taxes. As one operator simply put it; let the national park stick to running parks and the operators stick to running lodges, all while offering a substantial increase in parks fees paid by guests. For heaven’s sake, we trust a fair compromise can be reached.
One would think ten days pass in a flash. On the contrary, incredibly, time seemed to slow down and stretch while on Benguerra. Azura time as it was fondly referred to at the lodge. Existence was so simple. I was given the rare chance to sit idle and allow my mind to wander undistracted by the routine trappings of normal reality. I am sure everyone who visits this part of the world wishes that it would last forever.
Finally, the brutal day arrived when we had to leave. Just as I had wept as a young boy leaving Mozambique behind some 40 years ago, my young son wept as our boat departed to take us home. Each day on Benguerra offered something new and equally special. Even now, when I close my eyes I can see the mosaic of blue flickering in my mind, and if I try hard enough I'm almost certain I can smell the sea breeze and hear the ring of pure Mozambican silence.
What this trip confidently resolved, is that the Bazaruto Archipelago is unquestionably a contender for a favourite vacation spot. It calls for definite bragging rights as an up-and-coming destination and certainly challenges the appeal of other Indian Ocean pearls like Maldives, Mauritius, and Seychelles.
TRIP INFO
- AndBeyond Benguerra Island (andbeyond.com)
- Azura Benguerra Island (azura-retreats.com)
- Azura Marlin Beach (azura-retreats.com)
- Kisawa Sanctuary (kisawasanctuary.com)