How to Dial-In Your Espresso Differently for Espresso and Milk-Based Beverages: Key Learnings From My TDS Around the World Tour and WBC Observations

From my experience, dialing in an espresso is still one of the biggest challenges in today’s coffee industry. It’s already hard enough—and now, I’m here to tell you that you might need to dial in your espresso recipe twice. Why?

On my TDS Around the World Tour, one decaf shot in Berlin earlier this year stood out for its impressively high TDS. The barista behind the machine warned me that the recipe was tailored for a milk-based drink, so the shot might not taste great as a pure black espresso.

The coffee - from Villamaría, Caldas, Colombia (Castillo and Colombia varieties, processed naturally) - had a TDS of 13.4% with flavor notes of candied orange, black tea, and prunes. Indeed, this espresso was intense, or in simpler terms, a bit overwhelming.

This experience made me rethink the differences between recipes for pure espresso versus those designed for milk-based drinks, leading to some fascinating insights.

Reflecting on this, I revisited my WBC Competition notes from 2021 to 2024. As you might know, the Specialty Coffee Association WBC stage is dominated by single-origin, single-variety coffees - very different from the blend-focused reality of most coffee shops. Yet, the WBC espresso recipes of the 16 semifinalists of the last four years reveal interesting patterns:

For milk-based drinks, WBC competitors typically use slightly higher doses and shorter brew ratios, producing espresso with higher TDS. This intensifies flavors, ensuring the coffee cuts through milk or milk alternatives.

This approach also aligns with the growing use of milk alternatives with reduced water content. For example, in 2023, World Barista Champion Boram Julio Um highlighted milk as a gateway for new customers, crafting dessert-like beverages. This year, Mikael Jasin echoed that sentiment with his focus on “smaller, dessert-like” milk drinks. These innovations perfectly reflect what Gen Z wants - sweet, fun beverages.

The Future of Espresso

It’s time to rethink espresso! While I personally love pure black espresso, I’ve observed that in coffee shops around the world, it’s increasingly treated as an ingredient rather than a standalone beverage. This shift calls for reimagining espresso recipes to fit the next wave of menu best-sellers. Think Espresso Martinis, Tiramisu Lattes, or Luckin Coffee’s Moutai alcohol-infused latte, that generated $17.3 million in sales on its first day alone.

I was surprised to learn that one in four Adult Americans enjoys sipping espresso martinis.