Scopello – Sicily | Bewitching Seascapes & Rooted Tonnara Tradition

Scopello is one of those places of Sicily so difficult to forget for its bewitching seascapes and also for its Tonnara, a rooted, old tuna fishing tradition which are part of a historic, local culture started centuries ago.

 Part of the municipality of the splendid coastal town of Castellamare del Golfo of Trapani this little gem of the Sicilian vis situated Just 37,0 km from the city of Trapani.

One of the main, local landmarks are the monumental Faraglioni which give that place an epic suggestive, mysterious and captivating charm.

Today Scopello is a peaceful and charming tiny coastal village,with a maze of narrow streets,cobblestone alleys and white houses.It has less than 100 inhabitants and one of its relevant highlights is the Bagghiu.

Bagghiu is a Sicilian word which translated to  Italian language,means Baglio and in Sicily is protagonist of many different and controversial opinions about its means. In the Eastern Sicily is a small Moorish Ribat,a little Arab fort,with fortified walls and a wide patio in its interior,in other places of Sicily is considered a fortified farm with solid walls and one entrance leading to a courtyard.

On the facade there are a couple of windows and it is flanked by two wings. Once entered in that area of the building you can sit in a relaxing cafe,enjoying a coffee,a drink, a fresh and genuine granite in that picturesque place in which centre lies a big eucalyptus.

The Bagghiu of Scopello is mainly dated 17th century but also has controversial opinions,for someone is dated since the medieval era developed under Moorish rule and probably rearranged during the Norman period,other sources are from a construction erected between the 17th and 18th century and later restored.

In the centre of Scopello you can see the Parish Church ,the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie erected in the 60s.

An iconic, local symbol is the Torre Bennistra,a strong and solid tower erected on a rectangular plan loyal example of the Torri Almenara used as a check point and from there with signals and fires by the guards the population was alerted in case of attacks by sea.

The tower was built in the 13th century to defend the coast by the Saracen invasions, its name probably derives from the family Bennistri or Bennisti who ruled Scopello during a period based on feudal systems and it was partially rebuilt during the 16th and 17th century.

There are two other towers,one is of medieval origin built probably in the 13th century during Swabian rule but only the ruins are visible.The other one was erected in the 16th century,a work by the architect Camillo Camillani.

The Tonnara di Scopello is one of the emblematic highlight of the village and not only for the date of construction. It was erected in the 15th century and until the 20th century it was active.

Tonnara in Sicilian means two things, the expedition for hunting and fishing the tuna on the boats,but also that place where the nets,cables,accessories,parts for the boat and all the equipment that the Rais organises for fishing.

Usually a Tonnara starts in March,the work is similar from Tonnara to another but each has its identity,the Tonnara is a place which in some cases is similar to a Bagghiu in some places it is a building surrounded by walls and in the interior are prepared all the operations with the materials placed in a Maffaraticu, a sort of warehouse.

 The Rais is the the leader, who organise the plans,the routes,giving instructions to the team,it is a hard work because to prepare a Tonnara is not simple,the tuna is not easy to hunt,all the results and fruits of a good operation or a negative fishing are responsibility of the Rais. Rais is that word in Arab means boss or leader ,transmitted in Sicily in the 9th century and still used in the Tonnara.

The Rais checks the work of the Tunnaroti the men of the team,he gave them orders and every day very early he also checks the climatic condition with a visit along the coast to control to go offshore fishing or not.

In the negative case for bad climatic conditions,the Rais organising maintenance,meetings with the crew and dedication to the study of the route which can be every time different.

There is also a Sutta Rais or two Sutta Rais depending how big is the Tonnara,they check and coordinate the work in absence of the Rais.

The Tunnaroti are divided in different roles,the Capu Bastarderi is like an assistant responsible of the movements of the team on a Bastarda the name in the Tonnara terminology of the boat,then there is also a Capu Coro who starts to sing a Cialoma, a song in Sicilian and the Piscaturi the fishermen answering to that in a sort of choir.

The Capu Urdaru,,Cabannisti and Faratichi are people dedicated on board and other dedicated as part of the team in catering operations preparing food for the crew,checking all the accessories of the boats,placing the nets on board, cleaning receiving orders by the Rais for maintenance works.

A traditional Tonnara  is also praying and singing, part of the culture since the beginning of the history,it is a religious rite but also a mutual help of the crew with those Cialoma helping the rhythm,the action and the moral of the team during a day of fishing.

The songs are from popular,religious of daily life,remembering a charming woman or other inspirations including the land and the families.Some Tonnare are devoted to a Saint protector,Patron or Patroness ,all depends from the area of the Tonnara where also the terminology of the crew is different.

A Tonnara can have different strategies, depending of the place and the attitude of the tuna there is the Tonnara offshore,far from the coast and also near the coast,when the tuna is close to the coastline and immediately dragged to the shore caught in nets and the Mattanza the slaughter of the tuna is different ways.

The Tonnara construction of Scopello is a double building located a few meters from the sea with a large courtyard. It was for long time property of the local families Mannina and Sanclemente later the owners were religious orders and also nobles as a Baron and a Prince linked to the Spanish rulers and after the reunification of Italy it came back to local owners.

Scopello is one of the two entrances to the beautiful Riserva dello Zingaro which is an authentic paradise of Sicily with many opportunities to walk along enchanting trails admiring the coastline which offers amazing views with a big number of inlets,small bays,tiny coves other Tonnare, forests, a rich flora, fauna,picturesque cliffs and small beaches.

The natural  landscapes are unique,it is the first Nature Reserve of the island and in addition a very historic place with relevant archaeological founds.

Scopello and the county of Trapani are authentic treasures all to discover,it is a corner of Sicily you see once and you want to come back soon or immediately,all the island fascinates people for its infinite beauty and Scopello is one of that kind of places you will never forget.

Link : https://www.scopello.sicilia.it/

Where to Stay | Recommended Accomodation

Hotel Ristorante Torre Bennistra

Hotel Baglio di Scopello