Tokaji Wines: A Legacy of Sweetness and Diversity
Tokaj is the name of the wine region, while Tokaji refers to the wine produced there. The Hungarian suffix ‘i’ means ‘from’ or ‘belonging to,’ so ‘Aszú from Tokaj’ and ‘Tokaji Aszú’ both accurately describe the wine. Tokaj is also a village within this renowned region. Praised in Hungarian culture and even featured in their national anthem, Tokaj is a long-standing name in the world of fine wines. Its unique climate, shaped by the Bodrog and Tisza rivers, creates perfect conditions for noble rot, making it one of the oldest and globally respected wine regions.
Tokaji’s Revival: From Historic Legends to Modern Excellence
The Origins of Tokaji Aszú
Szepsi Laczkó Máté (1576-1633) is credited with pioneering the use of botrytis cinerea in winemaking. In 1631, during a Turkish invasion, he discovered his vineyards covered in this fungus. Seeing an opportunity, he made the first sweet botrytized wine. However, some sources suggest that Tokaji Aszú, known as the world’s first botrytized wine, might have been developed around 1650. According to this version, Lady Zsuzsánna Lórántffy (c. 1600-1660) deliberately delayed the grape harvest to encourage noble rot. By the late 17th century, 27 communities in Tokaj were producing this celebrated wine, and formal vineyard classifications were established in the 18th century. Some historical references even mention Aszú as early as 1571, but it became more formally recognized in the 17th century.
Tokaj’s Golden Era and Historic Designation
Tokaj earned its reputation for botrytized grapes through centuries of experimentation. Louis XIV once called it ‘Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum’ (Wine of Kings, King of Wines). A significant milestone came in 1737 with a royal decree setting the boundaries for villages to use the Tokaj name. This decree established uniform standards for vineyard and winemaking practices, marking the creation of the world’s first protected designation of origin for wine.
In medieval and Renaissance Europe, Tokaj was a prized luxury known for its golden sweetness. It was admired by popes, royalty, and Thomas Jefferson, inspiring many writers and artists. During its height from the 17th to the 19th centuries, Tokaj drew traders from Greece, Italy, and Jewish communities, enriching its cultural landscape and raising the quality of its wines.
Tokaj: From Decline to Revival
Tokaj’s reputation faced significant challenges over the years. The late 18th-century partition of Poland, trade issues, and the phylloxera epidemic in the 1880s had a severe impact. World War I and the Treaty of Trianon in 1920 further devastated Tokaj, as Hungary lost substantial territory and key vineyards. The destruction continued with World War II and the loss of the Jewish community.
The latter half of the 20th century saw Soviet control, which emphasized mass production over quality and led to the neglect of valuable vineyards. For 50 years, Tokaj struggled with lost markets, communities, and winemaking knowledge. The collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 marked the start of a revival. Foreign investors, like Lord Jacob Rothschild and Hugh Johnson, and renewed local efforts, were crucial in restoring Tokaji’s global reputation and revitalizing its winemaking traditions.
Aszú: A Tokaji Gem
Aszú, the world’s first and most concentrated botrytized wine, originated during Tokaj’s golden era in the 17th and 18th centuries when sugar was scarce and alchemy was in vogue. This sweet wine quickly became a favorite among European royalty, religious leaders, and artists, symbolizing prestige and diplomacy.
Making Aszú is labor-intensive: botrytized grapes are hand-picked, mashed into a paste, and mixed with fermenting base wine before aging in special Hungarian oak barrels. Traditionally, the sweetness of Aszú was measured by the number of puttonyos (baskets) added, though now it is measured by residual sugar content.
The ban on chaptalization and fortification in 1991 marked a turning point in improving Aszú’s quality. Modern Aszú wines are known for their refreshing sweetness, low alcohol content, and balanced oxidative qualities, representing Tokaj’s rich winemaking heritage.
The process of making Aszú wine begins in the fall with the careful hand-picking of botrytized grapes, known as aszú berries. These berries are mashed into a thick paste, while non-botrytized grapes are pressed to produce a base wine. The aszú paste is then soaked in this base wine for a minimum of eight hours, sometimes extending up to three days, allowing the flavors to meld. After soaking, the mixture is strained and undergoes a slow second fermentation, driven by its high sugar content and the cool cellar environment. The wine is then aged for at least two years in oak barrels, followed by an additional year in the bottle, during which it develops its rich, complex character.
Essencia: The Nectar of Tokaj
Essencia is less a wine and more of a rare nectar. In exceptional vintages, aszú berries are hand-picked and left to naturally release their juice without pressing. This liquid gold can exceed 800 grams of residual sugar per liter and 20 grams of acidity before fermentation. Fermented only in glass, often in carboys, it can take years to develop just a few degrees of alcohol.
Tokaji Essencia is an extraordinary wine made only in select years when grapes are affected by botrytis. These grapes are left in a cask to naturally release a juice with around 45% sugar content, which ferments slowly into Tokaji Essencia, renowned for its rare and intense sweetness. Tokaji Aszú Essencia, a more common variant, blends this concentrated juice with wine from non-botrytized grapes, resulting in a luxurious wine that maintains Tokaji’s signature sweetness.
Essencia stands out from other wines for its thick, rich texture and surprising character. Historically, it was served by a spoonful and was even believed to have healing properties.
Grape Varieties Used in Tokaji Aszú
Several key grape varieties are essential in shaping Tokaji Aszú’s distinctive profile:
Furmint: Furmint is the backbone of Tokaji Aszú blends, dominating the region with 60% of the plantings. Its tight clusters also enhance the spread of botrytis, essential for the wine’s distinctive sweetness. Its natural acidity provides balance, making it a vital component in both sweet and dry varietal wines. Historical references to Furmint in Tokaj date back to 1611.
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Hárslevelű: Hárslevelű, a descendant of Furmint, plays a key role in Tokaji winemaking. Its late ripening and aromatic qualities, reflected in its name meaning ‘linden leaf,’ offer fruity and floral notes. Hárslevelű’s acidity and botrytis resistance make it versatile for both varietal and blended wines, whether dry or sweet.
Sárga Muskotály: Also known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, this grape is celebrated for its intense aroma and lively acidity. Known as Muškát Žltý in Slovakia, Moscato Bianco in Italy, and Gelber Muskateller in Austria, it adds a fragrant and acidic layer to Tokaji blends.
Zéta: Formerly known as ‘Oremus’ until 1999, this Furmint-Bouvier hybrid is known for its high sugar content, early ripening, and strong botrytis susceptibility. Introduced to Tokaji blends in 1993, it quickly became vital for adding complexity and sweetness to these renowned wines.
Kabar: Also called Tarcal 10, this Hárslevelű-Bouvier hybrid is noted for early ripening, thick skin, high acidity, and high sugar potential. Approved in 2006, it remains sparsely planted in Tokaj.
Decoding Puttonyos in Tokaji Aszú
Puttonyos, a term rooted in the Hungarian word for ‘basket,’ has long been used to indicate the sweetness of Tokaji Aszú wines. The number of puttonyos originally referred to the amount of botrytized grape paste added to the base wine during production - the more paste, the sweeter the wine.
Modern Tokaji Aszú labels often show 5 or 6 puttonyos. A 5 puttonyos wine has a balanced sweetness with 12 to 15 percent residual sugar, while a 6 puttonyos wine is richer, with 15 to 18 percent residual sugar. This label helps us understand the wine’s sweetness and quality.
Other Wines of the Tokaj Region
While Tokaji Aszú is the most renowned wine from Tokaj, it constitutes only about 10 percent of the region’s wine production. Sweet wines, once highly sought after in the 18th century, have become less popular today. Climate change has further impacted the availability of botrytized grapes, making these prized wines even more scarce.
Tokaji’s vineyards also produce a variety of dry and semi-sweet white wines. A notable example is Szamorodni, which means ‘as it grows,’ reflecting its unique production process. Unlike Tokaji Aszú, where botrytized grapes are meticulously separated, Szamorodni involves whole clusters of both botrytized and non-botrytized grapes, offering a different approach to winemaking.
Szamorodni can be found in both dry and semi-sweet styles. The dry versions are particularly intriguing as they are often aged under a layer of yeast, akin to sherry production. This process imparts a slightly oxidized character, adding complexity and depth to the wine. Alongside Szamorodni, Tokaj produces other dry and semi-sweet wines that showcase the versatility of its grape varieties, providing a fresh take on Tokaj’s distinctive terroir while maintaining its rich winemaking tradition.
Tokaj’s Revival: A New Era of Investment
The early 1990s saw a resurgence in Tokaj thanks to foreign investments following the fall of Communism. British writer Hugh Johnson co-founded the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, which led to further investments from French, American, and Spanish estates. Early ventures like Disznókő, Tokaj-Oremus, and Királyudvar played a key role, producing notable wines and nurturing a new generation of Hungarian winemakers.
By 2020, Hungarian and EU funding of 330 million euros was directed toward Tokaj’s revitalization. This included rebranding, modernizing the state-owned Grand Tokaj, and extensive vineyard research. The 100-million-euro Közösségi Borászati Infrastruktúra Projekt aimed to provide local winemakers with new equipment and facilities, ensuring Tokaj’s continued growth and improvement. After around 30 years of privatization, Tokaj is undergoing a resurgence, offering a diverse range of wines, from its famous sweet varieties to innovative dry, sparkling, and flor-aged options.
The Future of Tokaj
Tokaj is poised for a resurgence, backed by its fertile volcanic soils, native grape varieties, distinctive winemaking techniques - especially Aszú - expert cooperages, and passionate industry professionals. Currently, around 6,000 ha of the potential 11,000 ha in the region are under cultivation. Efforts to improve clonal selection and optimize vineyard placement are just beginning. As Tokaj’s winemakers shape their future, the region is set to rediscover its place among the world’s most celebrated wine destinations, blending ancient traditions with a bold vision for tomorrow.
Visit a Great Winery in Tokaj
For over 40 years, this family-owned winery has been producing exceptional wines from their carefully tended vineyards. Each bottle, available in limited quantities, is individually numbered, making every taste a rare experience. Guests can explore the beauty of the Malomfeli vineyard with an exclusive tour. The winery’s cellar, nestled in the historic city of Tokaj, is a hidden gem, housed in a 16th-century building once a hunting lodge for King János Szapolyai of Hungary.
Conclusion: Tokaji - A Resilient Legacy of Sweetness and Variety
Tokaji wines, deeply rooted in tradition, have withstood the tests of empires, wars, and economic challenges. Despite these hurdles, the region’s dedication to quality and innovation has restored its esteemed place in the wine world. From the celebrated sweetness of Tokaji Aszú to the diverse expressions of its other wines, Tokaji remains a testament to resilience and excellence in winemaking. This historic region continues to impress wine lovers with its range of offerings and its commitment to preserving a legacy that endures through time.
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