Inside Denim

In case you missed it, here's some of what happened in the #denimindustry last week: #denim #newsroundup #icymi #news #jeans #fabrics 🧵 Sharabati’s new spinning facility willl create 2,000 jobs https://lnkd.in/e_SZxv4W Sharabati #Egypt 👖 Biodegradable collaborative capsule https://lnkd.in/emQfWJic Asahi Kasei #Roicaelastane Lenzing Group Advance Denim 👖 Tejidos Royo capsule highlights Officina39 solutions https://lnkd.in/eyGqVMSV TEJIDOS ROYO OFFICINA39 👖 PV Denim readies for next show https://lnkd.in/eVwujMwH Denim Première Vision

Spanish mill TEJIDOS ROYO has created a capsule collection featuring novel clean chemistry solutions developed by Italian chemicals supplier OFFICINA39. The range features Aqualess All-In-One, an enzyme-based pumice stone replacement, chlorine alternative Smart bleach and PP substitute Remover IND/J-N, along with Officina39’s Oz-One Powder. The two companies share the same values of sustainability and social responsibility, said Tejidos Royo. Company CEO Jose Royo told Inside Denim that the mill had not been directly affected by the recent flooding in the Valencia region, but that many roads had been damaged which made it difficult to ensure timely deliveries. https://lnkd.in/eyGqVMSV

“In the early 1990s, before specific #denim #fabric fairs came to be, we, the designers, would head to the Paris fabric show, seeking similar looks to source or develop for our own clients. We’d share our ideas, like the time when we were hunting with Pierre Morrisey for a denim fabric with a special coating, which Pierre would then turn into G-Star’s Kinetic denim, a trend that launched a whole new aesthetic." This reflected a time when designers and product developers would, logically and systematically, bring in fresh ideas for trends and fabrics that denim #mills and factories would then strive to develop. Those times are (mostly) no more. Today, denim mills and factories are the instigators of trends. Read Tilmann Wröbel’s latest piece for Inside Denim on the process that has led to this inversion. With Tim Huesemann, Paolo Gnutti, Dilek Erik, Simon Giuliani, Piero Turk https://lnkd.in/eTv_gu9D

It is well known that shiploads of second-hand clothes are transported from Europe and North America to Africa, Pakistan, Chile and other places. Some are sold in local markets. But how such a large volume of these garments end up in dumping grounds or on shorelines is a topic of much debate. Calling them ‘waste’ is a first friction point in understanding the sector. Inside Denim headed to Brussels for the Bureau of International Recycling conference to find out more. Read the full feature, online now: https://lnkd.in/ea4w7_Xc #secondhandclothing, #resalemarket , #upcycling , #karamanto, #usedtextiles , #recycling , #EPR Mariska Boer Maud HARDY Marlvin Owusu Lisa Jepsen Teresiah Wairimu

Denim innovation platform Transformers Foundation has launched a report called ‘Collective Action Reimagined: A Call for Fair Process and Supplier Inclusion in Fashion’s Multi-Stakeholder Initiatives’, describing it as an exploration of “the systemic barriers preventing meaningful supplier engagement in some of the industry’s most influential multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs)”. The report says rules, governance and processes “often perpetuate supplier exclusion”. The organisations, though well-intentioned, often reinforce barriers that limit supplier participation, leading to what it calls “a cycle of distrust, disengagement, and ineffective sustainability strategies”. It calls for the adoption of a ‘fair process’ model. This would be based on non-biased decision-making, equitable engagement and transparency. Transformers Foundation said its aim is to transform MSIs into “true platforms for collective action”. The report focuses on Cascale (formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition), Textile Exchange, the Social and Labor Convergence Program (SLCP), and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). Tricia Carey, formerly of Renewcell, and Alberto De Conti, denim market lead for chemicals company Rudolf, joined Elizabeth Cline, author of the report, and Kim van der Weerd, from Transformers Foundation, to discuss the report before its official launch. “There’s a societal transformation underway,” said Tricia Carey, which makes the role of these organisations even more important. Yet it is the suppliers that will be doing a lot of the heavy lifting. “The challenges that we face concern all stakeholders equally, especially when considering decarbonisation or circularity.” Alberto de Conti admitted that the report was an eye-opener, as chemicals companies, he said, “are low in the food chain”. He noted that the need for closer collaboration and better understanding is stronger than ever. The number of multistakeholder initiatives, that the report believes are de facto standards makers, has led to overlaps which is a major source of frustration and disengagement, despite a few initiatives to address the fragmented landscape. On this point, Mr de Conti noted that other industries have been able to address this issue. Cascale, SLCP and Textile Exchange responded to the Transformers Report, which can be accessed on its website, generally saying they “welcome feedback” and outlining how they are addressing some points. Textile Exchange said it is “currently implementing organisational shifts that further looks at how decisions can be more transparent and inclusive of stakeholder voices, both in setting the direction of travel, but also in implementation”. https://lnkd.in/eHYezf9i

While Italian mill Candiani was the forerunner in the natural stretch space with the launch of its Coreva denim in 2020, YULEX has had its eye on the denim market for several years. This summer, it launched two new products: Yulex 2.0, a stretchier version of its foams, and a stretch filament, Yulastic, billed as an alternative to elastane for the denim market, socks and elastics. There is a similar focus on natural raw materials from Korean group Hyosung Performance Textiles, which announced a $1 billion investment in bio-based butanediol (BDO). The LYCRA Company is also going full steam ahead with creating an #elastane with 70% #renewable feedstocks – industrial corn – since partnering Qore. Next year, it will convert one-third of all its elastane over to the bio-derived product. #biobased #bioderived #plantbased #fiber #stretchdenim Read the in-depth article on our Features page: https://lnkd.in/edSnXJVv

In case you missed it, here's some of what happened in the #denimindustry last week: #denim #newsroundup #icymi #news #jeans #fabrics 🧵 Workwear undergoes ‘metamorphosis’ at Tonello https://lnkd.in/en9n8taV #tonello 👖 Trippin’ Blue prepares seventh edition https://lnkd.in/eiMeyxaY #Trippinblue 🧵 Water preservation top of mind for Vicunha https://lnkd.in/emwRBEFD Vicunha Têxtil 👖 Museum pieces from G-Star-Rembrandt collaboration https://lnkd.in/eTwvbhbh G-Star RAW 👖 ISKO strives to make recycled fibres the norm https://lnkd.in/eWJrQGFw ISKO™

The software programs developed by machinery makers and chemicals suppliers have given the denim industry a head start in environmental scoring systems. These digital tools provide data to plug into future digital product passports. But how many gaps remain, and can information be transferred from one platform to another? #dpp #traceability #denim #pefcr #datasecurity BEGOÑA GARCIA Alberto Lucchin Stephane POPESCU Peter Zinser https://lnkd.in/ez-9akfW

In case you missed it, here's some of what happened in the #denimindustry last week: #denim #newsroundup #icymi #news #jeans #fabrics 👖 Kingpins toasts 10th anniversary in Amsterdam https://lnkd.in/eTCsJpqF Kingpins Show 👖 Levi’s publishes first climate transition plan https://lnkd.in/encPe4vC Levi Strauss & Co. 👖 Siddiqsons eliminates virgin cotton and polyester for SS26 https://lnkd.in/ePYkMUth Siddiqsons Group 👖 Soorty presents innovative line-up for SS26 https://lnkd.in/eSSBCcpU Soorty Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. denim

The thick fog that enveloped Sugar City and caused travel disruption on the first morning of Kingpins Show Amsterdam burnt off into a stunning orange sunset as the trade show celebrated its 10th anniversary in the Dutch (and so-called denim) capital. As business drew to a close, a Brazilian band led models around the halls, climbing the stairs to showcase some of the exhibitors’ latest fabrics and designs, while Kingpins founder Andrew Olah raised a glass to his team and the production company for their hard work and vision over the years. New developments this time included fabrics made with The LYCRA Company’s bio-based elastane – replacing 70% of the raw material (BDO) with one derived from industrial (non-edible) corn. In 2025, Lycra will switch one third of all its elastane to the bioderived product, following massive investment in the infrastructure (see the latest Inside Denim magazine for more on this story). A big fabric theme at the show was the demand for softness, with many mills showcasing offerings with a very soft hand feel, either in 100% cotton constructions, with new yarn and weaving methods and softeners, or through blends with viscose or Tencel, creating fabrics that feel silky and light. As part of The Boxes – displays at the entrance to the fair that showcase special projects or collaborations – Paolo Gnutti presented a vision combing art, denim and film. These garments and fabrics are inspired by his personal art collection and are brought to life in corresponding film clips, providing a glimpse into the inspiration for his latest collections for ISKO Luxury by PG. Technology provider Tonello showed a collection of reimagined Italian workwear, demonstrating how fabrics and garments can be transformed, while ENDRIME LTD’s Sadia Rafique and graphic design specialist Matt Duckett highlighted the versatility of Tonello's laser and washing options through Sake – “art with a purpose” – with eye-catching graphics and visuals lasered and finished on huge denim canvases. A clever addition to the project involved a QR code that brought the artworks 'to life' - enveloping the user in digital flowers and releasing digital butterflies... reflected by the real butterfly that was noted fluttering around the Blue Hall on Day 2. The Arvind-sponsored Indigo Art Museum this time brought Indigo Fragmented Crack, a bronze artwork by London-based Based Upon, to demonstrate how indigo can be used to dye many materials, including metals. A quieter second day meant more time for meetings, but also a reflection on what generally was suggested as a more positive mood for the industry. Inside Denim will be reporting these stories in more detail, plus more, over the coming week. https://lnkd.in/eTCsJpqF