DAN'S WINE BLOG- THIS WEEK'S WINE REVIEW

THIS WEEK’S WINE REVIEW:

 This week instead of reviewing one wine, I am going to talk about the variety – Grenache. This is because last week the Hentley Farm “The Old Legend” Grenache 2021 won the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy for the best 1–2-year-old red wine at the Royal Melbourne Wine Show.

 This is an awesome achievement as it is only the second Grenache to win this all-important trophy in the 60 years since the trophy’s inception. The first being the 2016 Grenache from fellow Barossa winery, Turkey Flat Vineyards, winning it in 2017.

 For most of the last century, Grenache was considered by most drinkers as a second-rate variety and a major constituent in cheap “plagons” of wine. There were a handful of wineries that made outstanding wines from this variety, but the majority was overcropped swill.

 Then in the 1980s Yalumba, Orlando and a raft of small McLaren Vale winemakers began to make rich, ripe, juicy wines from this versatile variety. Pirramimma and d’Arenberg in particular, made outstanding Grenache, whilst the Gramps Barossa Grenache of the 1990s was my wife’s favourite “everyday” red.

 Seeing the success of this big (up to 16% alcohol), rich style of Grenache many other wineries got on the bandwagon, so that by the early-2010s there was an abundance of excellent Grenache available – we were spoiled for choice. A few suffered from the “hotness” of alcohol from being disjoined but most were superb, rich, tasty, well integrated wines.

 More recently in keeping with general drinking trends, most producers have aimed at a lower alcohol, more “elegant” wine. Some such as that which Hentley Farm and Turkey Flat have (obviously) carried it off in style, however, there are a growing number of thin, green, weedy, even dare I say it, pissy Grenache, on the market where the reduction in alcohol has been achieved by using green/under ripe fruit, thus robbing the wine of the innate gorgeous flavours of the variety.

 In my opinion, as a general rule:

 No.1: Grenache over 14.5% are big and bold in style.

No.2: Grenache between 13.5%-14.5% are graceful and elegant.

No.3: Grenache under 13.5% are usually thin, green and pissy.

 I love No.1 and No.2 (especially No.1) styles and try to avoid No.3 at all costs by checking the alc/vol on the label when I pick up a bottle of Grenache.

 Here are some quality Grenache wines I have tasted this year (in no particular order):-

 ►Lino Ramble McLaren Vale 2021

►Yalumba Bush Vine Barossa 2020

►Willunga 100 Smart Vineyard McLaren Vale 2021

►Dell’uva Barossa 2012 (Museum release) & 2017

►Reilly’s Old Bush Vine Clare 2016

►Schild Estate Edgar Schild Old Vine Barossa 2020

►Clandestine Vineyards Hearts & Minds McLaren Vale 2021

►Turkey Flat Barossa 2020

►d’Arenberg Derelict Vineyard McLaren Vale 2018

►Yangarra Estate Hickinbotham Clarendon 2020

 So there you have my thoughts on Grenache, with well over 500 wineries currently producing a varietal Grenache wine here in Australia, the wines available range from extremely ordinary right up to extra-ordinary, such as the Hentley Farm “The Old Legend” Grenache 2021.

 Have a great week, enjoy some fabulous Grenache and don’t forget that Monday is “International Merlot Day” – I will celebrate it by enjoying one of the superb Merlot made by my dear friend, the Legendary “Mr Merlot” himself, Jim Irvine. Probably a 1997 or 1998. Cheers, Dan T.