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Yes, it's totally fine to be keen on knowing what the best dive watches are without having any intention of ever actually using them for diving. Splashing around in the pool? Sure. Descending to the Mariana Trench? Perhaps not.
“Dive watches remain a core category for watch enthusiasm because the format combines a useful overbuilt do-anything ethos with the still very popular charm of mid-century exceptionalism,” says James Stacey of Hodinkee and The Grey Nato podcast. "Dive watches were born of need and worn by the types of people that many of us aspire to be in our modern lives. Even if you don't dive, the vibe of a great dive watch is rooted in purpose and fuss-free capability. And though dive watches have a less tool-like context today, the rakish personality of the modern dive watch is based in a deeply appealing history. With a great dive watch, you feel you can do anything."
Whatever your reason for wanting to eek out the best dive watches, here is our ultimate guide to what you need to look for, what you should (and shouldn’t) be buying, and any other deep, pressing questions you might be fathoming – like what characteristics define a dive watch.
What is a dive watch?
Though the vast majority of dive watches have now been superseded in functionality by dive computers, dive watches were originally used by divers to calculate the amount of time spent underwater – important when you’re dealing with oxygen tanks with limited supply. Technically speaking, a dive watch is a timepiece that can withstand a minimum water-resistance of 10 atm (the equivalent of around 100 metres). Where most dive-ready timepieces these days will be able to reach minimum depths of 200-300 metres, some can go as deep as 20,000 feet below the surface of the sea – the CX Swiss Military Watch being a case in point. Those at the shallower end of the dive spectrum should be used for more recreational scuba diving, snorkelling and swimming, while technical divers will require something with greater resistance.
Which characteristics define a dive watch?
There are many characteristics that define a true dive watch. Firstly, most dive watches will feature a rotating bezel, which allows the diver to easily measure elapsed time. Your dive watch will most likely also feature a long rubber strap, making it both suitable for underwater use and for wear over a wetsuit. What’s more, the watch should be finished with luminous hands and indices in order to make them both readable at depth. Another useful thing to have is a helium escape valve, which allows for the safe release of potentially damaging helium in the watch. This builds up as divers go deeper underwater. If your dive watch is particularly fancy, you may also have a built-in depth sensor. Other key characteristics include a screw-in crown and case-back finished with rubber seals, and an extra-thick crystal (occasionally domed) to deal with all the extra pressure. Phew.
Are dive watches actually waterproof?
Dive watches are always only water-resistant to the depth stipulated on the watch. Take them any depth below that and not only will your watch not be water-resistant, but it will be broken. What you can rely on, however, is that if you use your dive watch (resistant, as we know, to a minimum of 100-metre depth) for recreational swimming, you shouldn’t have a problem (although try and avoid the bath or shower, where excessive humidity can present problems of their own). Remember: most diving watches are able to go deeper than humans themselves can go, so you should, invariably, be fine in most scenarios.
Tudor Black Bay Harrods Exclusive
There’s no getting away from the impact a certain nouveau-vintage diver has had on Tudor. Shown here in a glorious, green-bezelled guise, this Black Bay pays knowing homage to Rolex's oft-grailed ‘Kermit’ Submariner while sticking to the brand's thoroughly attainable ethos. A Harrods exclusive colourway, we'd wager this is one of the few items from the Knightsbridge department store that can survive at a depth of up to 200 metres underwater. Certainly, the contents of its cheese counter are best kept above sea level.
Farer Aqua Compressor
We all know Farer does pops of colour like no other British brand but this time its latest Aqua Compressor has a techy twist, geeking out on the look of a ’60s Compressor dive watch. As well as the fact the two crowns and cushion case have been reimagined in superlight titanium and the lume markers offer decent legibility, a 300m depth rating and that luscious red dial and strap make it one of the freshest divers on offer right now.
Citizen Promaster Diver 44mm
A value-driven tool watch with the look that’s anything but. The turquoise dial is in good company (hi there Patek x Tiffany Nautilus and Rolex OP) and its cheerful nature belies the 200m pro specs and chunky bezel. It might be big at 44mm but the gold-toned steel case and the sustainable Eco-Drive solar power inside makes it accurate and slim.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m
Clean-cut tool watches are all the rage and this Omega Seamaster 300 is exactly that – a crisp-looking diver with elegant 007 undertones. Celebrating the 2024 Paris Olympics, the brand’s go-to diver has had a zingy makeover with its own Moonshine Gold. It frames an arctic fresh dial with a frosted bezel that amps up the glitz. Our fave easter egg is the seconds hand with its understated Olympic flame logo.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 42mm
Not everyone has the wrist for the OG 45mm Fifty Fathoms – Blancpain’s iconic diver known as the first civilian dive watch ever. But we’re buzzing because the brand has just launched a 42mm version in red gold and titanium version. On a soft tropic rubber strap, the gold one in particular has us quietly working out how best to sell off other grails to be able to afford one.
Casio G-Shock Frogman MRG-BF1000R-1ADR
Japanese watch design at its unhinged best, and no, that is the correct price. This may resemble your £30 Casio G-Shock from school but the MR-G is the pinnacle of G. Its hand-polished and assembled titanium case has 76 components giving it a mad asymmetric look, and this MR-G Frogman has weapons-grade details with close to 20 functions including a tide graph.
Doxa Sub 300 Beta
Doxa has come out of its cult status, elevating the Sub 300 from a niche fave to the edges of the mainstream. It’s still a quirky-shaped, slim '60s tool watch and its charm is only amped up with new colours, combos and dial textures. The new Sub 300 Beta comes on a steel bracelet or rubber strap, modernised by a dark visage and laser pops of turquoise, keeping its poise and stealth-fire hot looks – albeit at a slimmed down size.
Gucci Dive
This is a delightful counterpoint from Gucci to the flamboyance of the ultra-thin 25H, as seen on our man Idris. It’s a dive watch with all the requisite design clues, like a chunky steel bracelet, serrated-edge legible dive bezel, and a 300m depth rating. But then there's the little sartorial touches that set it apart, like the cheeky bee at 12. We also enjoy its aggressively pointed arrowhead indices, which add to its air of insouciance.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m ETNZ Deep
Omega’s solid, often predicable output of wrist delight never ceases to get our approval, but occasionally we caught napping, like when this big-cased disruptor burst out earlier in the year. With a mad mix of ultra-fresh turquoise and black handsomeness, this 45.5mm bruiser is a co-axial chronometer with a regatta timer and chronograph functionality packed into a black DLC case that’ll take you to a 2000ft depth if that's your thing.
Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 Automatic
Breitling does big tool energy better than most – the new butch Avengers underlining the raison d’être of boss man Georges Kern’s success. This 42mm sports watch, however is the perfect juxtaposition of elegance and capability, sporting a 200m depth rating with a thick sapphire crystal protecting its legible dial. The delicious contrast lies in its deep, silk-like navy dial with rose gold accents, including a broad set of sword-and-arrow hands and a colour-matched ceramic bezel. Milanese mesh bracelets can be a bit hit or miss, but not this time.
Tudor Pelagos FXD
As if we don’t already have a deep love for the Tudor Black Bay 54 in its small-cased perfection, then along comes yet more clean-cut tool vibes. The FXD epitomises a good, legible watch with its big, blocky indices and generous lume. Strap it on with its rip-stop tough Velcro strap and enjoy the odd scratch or two while noticing the Rolex family legacy of exquisite tolerances and attention to detail. Like the vintage-dipped PELAGOS logo matching the central red stripe on the strap. Don't forget to clock the superb in-house movement too. A banger.
Longines Legend Diver
Don't pretend you haven’t been yearning for this for a long time – because we have, Longines. Slotting neatly between its well-known 42 and 36mm Legend Diver, the classicists have hit our sweet spot with aplomb. Delivered on a soft navy NATO strap, the compressor case of the Legend D has never looked better. With a Longines-only automatic movement and remarkably tough-for-its-elegant image 300m depth rating, it’s a yes from us.
Bremont Waterman Apex II
Bremont’s deep-diving credentials come with a very British in-house seal of approval, shown quite literally in the new Waterman Apex II. This time, we get a tool-tough crown at 2 o’clock and a rather elegant sky-blue minute track encircling a delicately wave-patterned inner dial. There’s a GMT travel function, and a matched blue striated rubber strap holds the Trip-Tick case with soft confidence on your wetsuited wrist.
Rolex Submariner
The Submariner is, of course, a Rolex flagship, and the no-date model is a purist's favourite with a cult following. After eight years, it has been given a subtle but serious refresh with a slightly enlarged 41mm case, and a new calibre 3230 movement, which furnishes it with a hefty power reserve of 70 hours. The very first Submariners were unveiled in 1954; this is a modern continuation of that fine tradition.
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
TAG Heuer has been on point so far with its 2023 releases, especially that lit version of its racy Monza. What really struck a chord with us though was the satin-matte titanium of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. Exactly as it says on the tin, this is a sustainably solar-charging dive watch, in a slim 40mm case. That two-tone lume is begging to be used for some dark descents, yet again proving that tool watch can look cool while also being functional.
Grand Seiko SLGA015
We’ve already gone past the point where we compare Grand Seiko case and dial quality with the top Swiss grail brands. We know you’ve got it sorted in the Shizuikushi studio, making what seems shaped like a monochrome diver’s tool transcend its purpose. The 43.5mm Zaratsu polished case is made from Grand Seiko’s High-Intensity titanium, framing the dial as art. True to the Japan giant's deep affinity to nature, the wave-patterned dial is inspired by the deep Kuroshio current known as the Black Stream.
Longines Hydroconquest Ceramic
With a reputation for elegance, the Hydroconquest represents another side of Longines – that of a high-performance, technical tool watch. The 41mm steel case houses a marine-blue dial, framed by a robust, blue ceramic, unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale. A screw-down caseback and screw-in crown enable the impressive 300-metre water resistance and make this a watch for the most serious of divers, while the self-winding movement and stylish touches such as the steel bracelet – which has an integrated diving extension – make it equally suitable for urban environments.
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman
Hamilton's brawny 46mm diver says BIG IS BACK but it also has a rather elegant vibe thanks to its textured dial with polished Swiss details. True to a diver’s DNA though, we wouldn’t want it any other way than being rock solid, large and boasting an expandable rubber strap. An 80-hour power reserve and battle-ready crown protector means it's worthy of its name so we’re off to boot camp to at least imagine utilising its functionality.
Oris Aquis Date Upcycle
We adore the tie dye vibes of this kaleidoscopic addition to Oris' much-loved Acquis range of dive watches, but the story behind its dial is even more alluring. Made from recycled PET plastics, each facade is unique to the timepiece it inhabits and a physical manifestation of the Swiss manufacturer's ‘climate neutral’ status. As such, Oris has kitted out its factory with solar power, plans to reduce its CO2 emissions by 10 per cent per year and will offset its remaining emissions in the meantime. The end result is a truly feelgood diver that's made for carefree summer wear.
Rado Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic
Rado may be a Swiss brand known for future-proof ceramic minimalism, but the Captain Cook started out as a vintage-pure skindiver. The tool has charmingly morphed into this 43mm stealth-fest with choice gold detailing and a skeletonised dial. Dressed-up it might look, but it's also ready for real action with a 300m depth rating, a high-tech (it’s in the name, innit?) top-tier R734 calibre and the inherent bullet-proof nature of ceramic.
Vertex M60 AquaLion
As a big part of the British watchmaking renaissance, Vertex has a battle-proof history. Its AquaLion is full of intent with bold sword hands and a distinct design language bereft of homage. It has touches of the '50s while being distinctly modern, especially on its soft black rubber strap. With a brag-silencing 600m depth rating and choice of three included straps (we rate the bracelet best), it is quite likely more adventurous than us. We’ll take that as a challenge.
Orient M-Force
We all know and love Seiko and Citizen for their value-driven big portfolio of sports and dive watches, but storied Japanese brand Orient has a massive contender in its M-Force. Literally, as the 47.3mm case is no Goldilocks skindiver, but a veritable tank for the wrist. The 200m-rated watch has a steel shroud and massive crown guards should you get into any altercations with a Great White, and we’re all for its brutish looks. With an ISO-certified spec and an in-house F6727 movement, Orient proves it's much more than brawny looks – though the lush-red dialled big guy has charmed us.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Goldtech OroCarbo
Panerai does big, burly, sartorially sharp Italian watches for big wrists so while we applaud the efforts in tailoring the Luminor and Radiomir ranges to the small-chic zeitgeist, the full-fat 18ct rose gold Submersible is much more our bag. In a no-excuse 44m case with a massive trademark crown guard, a carbon fibre bezel tops a weighty brushed gold case with a recognisable monochrome dial. Now where do we find a wetsuit with brushed gold details?
Vulcain Nautique
This Vulcain is the très chic alibi of the more common diver watches. Known for its presidential Cricket alarm wristwatches, the salmon dial of the new Nautique is a deep-diving wolf in a suave suit that hides its strengths. Within the sleek 38mm case of only 12.2mm thickness beats an ETA2824 caliber, and it has a solid 200m depth rating to go with its crisp diver’s timing bezel.
Aera Instruments D-1
British, bold and hewn from the same 904L steel that Rolex advertised as a precious metal in the sixties, for good reason. The warmer feel of the king of stainless steel and a studied, rounded case shape contributes to a stonking first impression. Bereft of all retro baggage, the D-1 is an exemplary watch with a Leica-like feel and big yet comfortable presence. In an ergonomic case on soft FKM rubber, it’s Swiss-made and seriously good value for £1,200.
Farer Aquamatic
We love Farer’s aversion to monochrome, and the Aquamatic series does the British brand proud. Powered by a trusted and shock-proof Swiss SW220-1 movement by Sellita, it has all the right specs including a 200m depth rating and a dive bezel. We’re going for the scintillating pink version, with a minty (did we say Tiffany?) dial, soft red bezel and a wrist-pop of pink rubber strapology. The Aquamatic might be ergonomically sweet-sized at 38mm, but has big wrist energy presence.
Carl F Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Black
Proving that black never goes out of fashion, Carl F Bucherer has followed the success of last year’s Black Manta Special Edition with a new Patravi ScubaTec in the same colourway. A 44.6mm, ultra-light titanium case has been coated in matte black DLC, as has its unidirectional rotating bezel. The stealth continues to the dark textured dial where the hands and indexes have been treated to lashings of Super-LumiNova that shines blue in the dark. With a helium release valve, the watch has 500 metres of water resistance and a COSC chronometer-certified, self-winding movement.
Bell & Ross BR03-92
Through Bell &Ross' evolution, what used to be a square oddity is now a French tool standard. After 20 years there is still a quirky coolness about the instrument-esque aesthetic of this brand's watches. The only diver’s watch with a circle within a square, the BR03-92 sits remarkably well on the wrist, and is an archetype of rugged legibility. Just don’t try to sneak it under a shirt cuff, it’s simply not on.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver
As a couturier, Louis Vuitton inspires nothing but respect, but a premium fashion brand branching out into the watch space is risky business. Smashing through the proverbial glass ceiling, the Tambour Street Diver was nominated for a GPHG award in 2021, the closest we get to the Watch Oscars. And we’ll be damned if this victory wasn't deserved thanks to its street-tough vibes. A large, legible tool watch with a “je ne sais quoi” that makes it stand out from the crowd, in the genial comfort of the pebble-round Tambour case.
Mido Ocean Star Decompression World Timer
Just like Certina, Mido is a storied brand with a well-deserved resurgence. We all love the tool-like simplicity of dive watches, don’t get us wrong. But the beguiling nature of a destination-packed world time bezel is so evocative. True to its '60s forebear, the Ocean Star has a confusingly packed dial with a supernova-like centre of rich citrus flavours with a twist. There is a 24-hour scale allowing you to set the time at your fave destination, a weekend diving trip to the Azores, anyone?
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m 007 James Bond 60th anniversary
At a top-secret event, Omega released a tantalisingly deep blue new Seamaster to celebrate 60 years of James Bond. Daniel Craig, ever dapper, was wearing this 42mm version with a rather special caseback. No matter his rebuttals we’re sure he had a hand in the design process, and the changes are slight but meaningful. A sartorial dark blue oxalic anodised aluminium for the wave-engraved dial and bezel comes with a sleek Milanaise mesh bracelet.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech
The Fifty Fathoms might be the OG of all grail divers we know, and earlier in the year Blancpain brought out a big(ger) gun. The Fifty Fathoms Tech is a beast of a diver’s watch with some hot Satsuma-tasting accents. Forget any slim-sleeved shirts and leave your wrist-shyness at home, big watches are back. This 47mm titanium tool watch has a separately adjustable, useful 3-hour timing function for your mission, and one hell of a presence.
