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36 best gold watches – because flashing a bit of brass is cool again
By Thor Svaboe and Finlay Renwick
As well as being a timeless asset and a sound investment, gold watches also just look great on the wrist
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Gold watches for men and women have long achieved cult status. Rappers rap about theirs; bankers brag about theirs. But you don't have to be one or the other to rock a bit of bling on your wrist. And given the recent trend of steel watches having the upper hand in the popularity and resale stakes, now is a good time to get yourself a gold timepiece.
There are plenty of options for men's watches that flashes gold but don't necessarily contain that much (if any) of it. In the old days, that was generally known as gold-plating – as the term suggests, a process by which gold was attached to a less precious metal, most often stainless steel. Prone to wear and therefore unlikely to fool the eye for long, more recently a process of PVD-coating gold onto metal has all but replaced plating, ensuring a longer-lasting, much more robust appearance. The real news, however, is that gold-toned watches are currently a hot trend. So as long as you're not an old-time watch dealer trying to pass it off as actual 18-carat, wear it with pride and the satisfaction it hasn't cost you the earth.
- 1/36
Rolex DeepSea
No picture of this watch can prepare you for the fact it’s 44mm and weighs 322 grams. Solid gold is heavy! Topped off with that electric blue, Rolex really did outdo itself on this front. Rarely a more bling dive watch, you’ll see. It’s a good thing the water resistance stretches to 3900m though because that thing will sink to the depths of the ocean if ever dropped – so be careful out there, we’re totally cool with you not actually deep sea-ing with this DeepSea. £45,700. At rolex.com
- 2/36
Breitling Chronomat B01 Giannis Antetokounmpo
The legend of the Breitling Chronomat B01 has a new halo model thanks to this Giannis Antetokounmpo edition. Sporting a new 18K gold suit, the weighty 42mm case and Rouleaux bracelet make this a proper baller. Loving the cheeky basketball outline in the counter at 9 o’clock and the basketball icon's initials on the seconds hand pops above the rich olive green of the chronograph dial. £34,900. At breitling.com
- 3/36
Certina DS-2
Sorry but a 200m depth rating and 80-hour Powermatic movement for under £1k is mad value. Certina knocks this goldie out of the park. Thanks to the winning PVD gold case, leather strap and deep fumè mocha dial trifecta, the new DS-2 hits the spot as a retro-loving charmer. £895. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 4/36
Piaget Polo ‘79
The watch that put Piaget back on everyone’s lips this year – fittingly in time for the Swiss brand’s 150th anniversary. Impossibly slim at 7.35mm, this Piaget Polo ’79 is flamboyant factor 100, and will win nearly all ‘who’s watch is more of a vibe’ arguments among friends. Wearing one of these integrated bracelet grails puts you in the good company of Andy Warhol and Miles Davis, which is quite a power move. £69,000. At piaget.com
- 5/36
Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024
The Chronoscope series nails the trick of sticking to the beloved Speedmaster aesthetic while pulling off vintage dial vibes and big personality energy – quite literally as this bad boy is 43mm of solid gold. This is Omega’s Paris Olympics special edition and it’s a close call as to which we’d prefer to have given the choice – this or an actual Olympic gold medal? The mid-century metrics on the dial might have us going for the Chronoscope. £48,500. At omegawatches.com
- 6/36
Hermès Cut
There’s plenty of rose goldness on this two-toner to feel right at home here. With its sharp yet rounded case shape, the 36mm Cut is Hermès’s way of saying ‘Look, we can do refined everyday sports watches too’. Delightfully low key yet game changing at the same time. £12,550. At hermes.com
- 7/36
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Rose Gold
Powered by Zenith’s envy-of-the-industry El Primero movement, with chunky chrono pushers and busy dial that gives off the effect of a watch built for performance, the Chronomaster might not have the status of some of the other big Swiss beasts on this list, but it’s definitely one for The Heads. A proper chronograph with a 41mm dial, calfskin leather strap, and a tri-colour dial that immediately draws eyes and attention. £18,700. At zenith-watches.com
- 8/36
Chopard Alpine Eagle
Designed by Chopard’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele back in 1980 (a great name for a luxury Swiss watch company president), the Alpine Eagle is an under the radar beauty, made from responsibly-sourced gold with a gently curved dial and roman numerals on the face. While a lot of similar watches are only available in 40mm+, Chopard leans into one of our favourite recent trends — small watches — offering up a perfectly-proportioned 36mm variety of its signature range, as well as 41mm versions. £50,800. At chopard.com
- 9/36
Louis Vuitton Tambour
A legitimate heavy hitter in its own right when it comes to ‘proper horology,’ Louis Vuitton’s flagship Tambour, which has existed in one guise or another since 2002, is given the all gold treatment with a 40mm case and integrated bracelet in 18k, with an open case back so you can see into the engine room that houses its automatic LFT023 movement. Is it made in Switzerland? Of course it’s made in Switzerland. LV might just take the cake when it comes to high fashion watchmaking. £49,500. At louisvuitton.com
- 10/36
TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph
There’s just something about a gold watch with a black dial, isn’t there? Elevating TAG’s iconic racing watch, this Big Boy Carrera chrono is inspired by the interiors of luxury motors, with a brushed black sunray dial (giving it a lovely glint when the sun catches it), with 18k gold appearing on the hand, case, as well as the hefty chrono pushers and crown. A winning edition to one of our favourite lines of racing watches. £18,750. At tagheuer.com
- 11/36
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic
Move over Tank (we still love you), Jaeger Le-Coultre’s Reverso is actually the peak of a fancy little dress watch that one might wear to black tie gala, or just out and about to show that you have the mindset of someone who gets invited to fancy galas. A design classique with a case that sits under 8mm in thickness, its reversible pink gold case is made up of more than 50 components, with a sunray silver dial and a spotless look that is a tribute to JLC’s 1930s-era watchmaking heyday. We are also very partial to the smaller Duetto version. £35,600. At jaeger-lecoultre.com
- 12/36
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k
A perennial favourite in the Big Powerful Dive Watch category, the Black Bay’s 39mm case is a platonic ideal in terms of sizing, while the addition of deep green on the dial, 18k gold on the case, and brown alligator leather on the strap is one of the best styling combos of the year. As with all Black Bays, it has that rotatable bezel and domed glass dial for all sorts of seafaring activities… or just staring admiringly at it on your wrist. £13,340. At tudorwatch.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
- 13/36
Rado Captain Cook
Charting a course to strange lands with nothing but a compass, a big map and an iron will. A harrowing battle against stormy seas and the caprices of mother nature. No thanks, I’d rather stay on my sofa. Named after a certain ocean-going explorer, Rado’s Captain Cook was introduced in 1962 as a diver’s watch with a sturdy build and top of the line water resistance. Calling back to those early days, the current edition can plunge to 300m, with a 42mm with a gold-coloured stainless steel case, a quite lovely deep green dial and SuperLuminova hands and indexes for clear legibility in the dead of night. Nice! £2,450. At rado.com
- photostudio14/36
Gucci 25H
Even if Idris Elba wasn’t a Gucci ambassador we get the feeling he’d still be wearing the hell out of this Gucci 25H. Gucci nailed it this year, with striated dials and sleek bracelets making the thin-cased series an urban talisman. This 38mm piece might have a steel bracelet, but the dial alone makes it stand out more than most. There’s nothing like downplaying excess at a sensible £1,510. gucci.com
- 15/36
Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra Thin
Baroque curves and a stud-patterned rubber sports strap on an ultra-thin 8.7mm dress watch? Yes, please. With the indefinable Genta-style language in the Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 the short 39mm case makes one hell of an impression. The talking hand-applied hour markers and the curvy-tangular case make for an unexpected impression of balance and poise. When it comes to gold watches for men, this gold-framed date window has never looked more precious. £29,600. At geraldcharles.com
- 16/36
Audemars Piguet RO Jumbo 50th anniversary
Easily the best-looking Royal Oak this decade? We’ll let you decide, but the Tapisserie dial of the “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 50th anniversary is a vision of honey-laden dreams. Nailing this year’s newfound love for yellow gold in the sleekest case of the range, the dial has the power to turn the most steadfast R.O-skeptic. Seen on the wrist of Erling Haaland, its smoked gold fume dial alone means he’ll never relegate it to the bench. CHF 66,200, audemarspiguet.com
- ©17/36
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222
We’d happily admit to jaws being dropped in the office when Vacheron Constantin surprised us with the reborn 222 in 18K yellow gold. As the spiritual father of the Overseas range, it drips of peak seventies glamour and is true to its sleek origins. The work of a young Jörg Hysek, it takes but a brief glance at this to see that Genta was not alone in establishing the now all-encompassing trend of the integrated bracelet. POA, vacheron-constantin.com
- 18/36
Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic
In a world of hyped-up collabs and tough divers watches that never leave the sofa, there is zen to be found in the classicism of Frederique Constant. This 42mm rose gold plated case is a slim 11mm and exudes a rich mid-20th century Swiss dressed-up vibe. Powered by a Manufacture movement, the FC-710MC has a pebble-smooth case matched by an onion crown and guilloche dial details. It's the step back in time we all need. £2,495. At frederiqueconstant.com
- Vincent Wulveryck19/36
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Nothing says studied chic like a Cartier, and the Tank is the rectangular daddy. Our choice would easily be this deep space noir, yellow gold number. The Tank Louis Cartier balances the fascinating line between classic cool and minimal modernity and will always look right. Whether it’s your go-to choice for the wedding fit or copying Jeff Goldblum’s black Prada jumpsuit, you can’t go wrong with black and gold. £11,200, cartier.com
- 20/36
Brew Metric
American micro-brand Brew aces the 36mm-sized category with their squar-cular Metric series. The usually multi-coloured dial of the Metric is re-interpreted in a pure gold & black style, with PVD gold exuding a sky-high '70s cocktail glam factor. Seiko’s proven VK68 meca-quartz movement powers this affordable take on an integrated bracelet grail. £441. At brew-watches.com
- Fotostudio221/36
Hamilton Ventura 14K
The all-different Ventura will make your dad nod in approval, but don’t let that put you off. It’s an all-American icon from the candy-coloured days of be-finned cars, and the wrist of Elvis. But the Ventura is achingly cool in its own right, as the tech-tastic icon that brought the first electric watch movement to the people. And its futurist visage and delta case looks just as eye-catching today, this time celebrating its historical role with 14K solid gold panache. £10,400, hamiltonwatch.com
- 22/36
Tissot PRX
Let’s not mince our words, the timing of the Tissot PRX was perfect, and the success has been phenomenal. With our insatiable craving for watches with sleek integrated bracelets, we bet Tissot wishes had unleashed its '70s glam on the world even sooner. Sporting the look of a £40k grail watch for less than £400, that sumptuous, brushed dial awakens our desire for Swiss quartz. Big time. £375. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- Rolex23/36
Rolex Day-Date 40
Launched in 1956, the Rolex Day-Date quickly became the timepiece of choice for the rich and powerful, leading to its nickname: the “President”. The first wristwatch to display the date and the day of the week spelled out in full, this waterproof, self-winding calendar watch has been one of Rolex’s top sellers for more than 60 years. Available in various precious metal cases and with myriad dials ranging from simple to exotic and bejewelled, the purity of the current Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 in yellow gold with white dial, fluted bezel and President bracelet makes it a wonderful choice with just the right amount of statement-making bling. £29,950. At rolex.com
- 24/36
Cartier Pasha De Cartier
Another example of the resurgence of Cartier cool, the Pasha is resoundingly different. With one of the most pronounced circular cases we know, there is a quirky charm to it that we absolutely love. From the jewel-like cabochon crown to blue lacquer-filled indices on the guilloche dial, the Pasha proves that Cartier doesn't create insouciant watch trends, it follows them. Pasha’s late '80s charm in yellow gold will set you back a princely sum, but it’s worth it. £15,100. At cartier.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
- 25/36
Casio Watch Vintage A1000 Premium
Seeing Robert Lewandowski on the red carpet for the Ballon d’Or rocking a gold Casio with his immaculate fit shook us up. The A1000MG-9EF eighties icon riffs on our newfound love for small wristwear with a sleek new look. The Barcelona striker’s Casio outguns many wrist grails that have an extra six zeroes on the price of this sub-€100 nugget. Never underestimate an understated Casio, packed with features to keep you away from your smartwatch in no time. £94.50. At jurawatches.co.uk
- 26/36
Panerai Luminor 38mm 18K
We do wonder what a regular-shaped watch from Panerai would look like, if only out of curiosity. The fact that the Luminor series has survived the ups and downs of noughties stardom proves its worth. There is chameleonic nature in the classic Italian wristwear which is blatantly apparent. Witness the weapons-grade crown guard taking on a different role, as 18k rose gold makes this goldilocks-sized Panerai a rich celebration of cushion-shaped cool. £13,700. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 27/36
G-Shock GM-S5600PG-1ER
You don’t have to wear real gold to make a lasting impression. A G-Shock is cool in anyone’s book, and this one deserves the cover shot. A rose gold IP-plated case and a smooth black resin strap make this minimalist cool with a twist. Boasting a crystal-clear black multifunction screen and a 200m depth rating, its suave looks can deceive you. The GM-S5600PG-1ER might be dressed up for the party but is a wolf in bespoke clothing. £159. At g-shock.co.uk & jurawatches.co.uk
- 28/36
IWC Portugieser
IWC is a purveyor of pilot’s watches of near-intimidating sizes. Its formal Portugieser range is known for sleek chronographs, but this three-hander is the sweet pick of the range. With a chocolate brown alligator strap complementing a softly brushed rose gold case, is it too classic-perfect? We will continue to ask ourselves that question as we struggle to try to find a single non-proportionate detail on its mid-century silky dial. £15,500. At iwc.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
- 29/36
Maurice Lacroix Eliros
With its pared-back vintage look, the Eliros has become a top-selling model for Maurice Lacroix. In its simplest form, the watch has a large dial with three hands from the centre and a date window at three o’clock. A chronograph model is also available but the watch is possibly at its best in its basic form. The 40mm brushed and polished case is PVD-coated with 4N pink gold, while the anthracite dial is hand-brushed meaning that each watch will have a slightly different appearance. The hands and indexes have also received a gold-PVD finish and the complementary brown calf-leather strap has a gently aged patina. £690. At fraserhart.co.uk
- 30/36
Breguet Classique 7337
Combining innovation with classic looks, the Classique collection is a contemporary reminder of Breguet's long watchmaking tradition. This ref 7737 features a 39mm rose-gold case, framing a gold guilloché dial that shows the day of the week and date at the top on either side of an aperture that indicates the age and phase of the moon. Hours and minutes are read from an off-centre chapter ring that contains a small-seconds sub dial. Despite the very traditional outer finish, within the case beats a self-winding movement that incorporates the best of old and new, including a gold oscillating weight and Breguet’s cutting-edge silicon balance spring. £37,400. At breguet.com
- Jean-Daniel Meyer31/36
Patek Philippe Men’s Annual Calendar, Flyback Chronograph ref 5905R-001
While a gold watch is a great investment in its purest form, when two of Patek Philippe’s signature complications are added, the piece becomes a tour de force among covetable wristwear. The rose gold/sunburst brown dial colour combination, is the perfect iteration of this model – its curvy 42mm case providing all of the light reflections one expects from Patek. An arc of windows at the top of the dial give day, date and month, while a window inside the 60-minute chronograph sub dial acts as a day/night indicator. This is the perfect watch for anyone looking for a new family heirloom. £56,470. At patek.com
- 32/36
Chanel Monsieur De Chanel
Since Chanel launched the Monsieur in 2016, it has become the brand’s signature watch for men. With a jump hour at the bottom of the dial and a retrograde minutes indication intersected with a small seconds dial, most models of the watch to date have been pared back and deceptively simple in look. This version, made in a numbered edition, features a case made in Chanel’s proprietary beige gold, which is less “brassy” than yellow gold and celebrates the third colour – after black and white – that the house is built on. Powering the piece is the manual-winding Calibre 1 made in partnership with movement maestro Roman Gauthier. £34,500. At chanel.com
- 33/36
Tissot Excellence
Tissot’s mission statement is “gold value at silver price", and nothing represents that better than this rose gold-cased Excellence in a colour combination that is bang on trend for 2020. No fuss or frills, this three-hands-from-the-centre, time-only quartz-powered watch provides dress watch elegance at an affordable price. But the pared-back aesthetic does not mean an absence of discreet flourishes, such as the deep-blue gradient dial that changes in intensity depending on the light conditions and smoothly curving lugs that ensure the 40mm case hugs the wrist perfectly. £2,905. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 34/36
Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic 38mm
Swiss OGs Hamilton's revised Jazzmaster series has taken us by surprise. With some sharp new versions, the series nails the delicate balancing act between retro and modern, with exactly the right amount of utilitarian chic to keep us sweet. This Performer Automatic is an instant fave, mixing the racer look of a perforated leather strap with a matte black bezel and gold PVD case. Monochrome, gold, powered by Hamilton’s Swiss 80-hour movement, and there's also the tough 100m depth rating. £1,100. At hamiltonwatch.com
- 35/36
Seiko 5 Automatic
At less than £500, you don’t need to be a Premier League striker to afford the delicious contrast of gold on rubber with this Seiko. It's a classic tool watch with a rose gold PVD case and a black rubber strap. What’s not to love? Especially when it comes with the crowd-pleasing combo of a 200m depth rating and everyday-ready solar power. In-house craftsmanship in a 38.5mm case spells fave with a Japanese ‘F’. £480. At jura-watches.co.uk
- 36/36
Hublot Classic Fusion
Most people are better versed with Hublot's more bonkers Big Bang pieces – take your pick from rainbow bezels to fluorescent sapphire works of art. But its staple and best seller is the Classic Fusion range. 2023 saw more sizes in more simple materials as Hublot revisits the OG, but we're an absolute sucker for this 38mm bad boy in King Gold. Yep. £15,900. At hublot.com
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