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From a legendary new Omega Speedmaster and arguably Rolex's best Daytona yet to the Tissot PRX, GQ's expert edit of the best chronograph watches has something for everyone
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If you're a sports fiend with an interest in horology, chronograph watches are for you. They have long since escaped their sheer functionality (measuring elapsed time, in some cases, down to a thousandth of a second) to become style icons in their own right. You only have to look on the wrists of Dwayne Johnson, Bradley Cooper and Lewis Hamilton for proof.
And here's why: more often than not, the arrangement of two or more often three counters on the dial create a visual harmony often missing from other "complicated" timepieces and add another layer of interest to the design. Granted, time-only "dress watches" have an allure all of their own, but if betting the farm on a beater that will herald your entry into the serious watch market while offering sufficient wrist appeal to attract the right kind of attention, then chronograph watches are the best way to go.
- 1/29
Farer Monopusher GMT Seagrave
It might seem surprising but removing a pusher from this Farer so there’s only one actually adds complexity, not to mention a bit of extra chrono charm. One push starts the timer, while the second snaps the glossy blue hand back to zero. As is the Farer way, there’s British functionality, curated case design and three distinct pops of colour for good measure, with the big orange hand adding a handy GMT element too. £1,995. At farer.com
- 2/29
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Panda’ 1972 Chronograph
Nothing procures retro love in horology quite like a panda-dialled chronograph. Seiko has fitted this evocative hunk with a solid automatic automatic calibre which will ensure accurate chronograph timing for your race days. The mid-sized 42mm C-shaped case has an impressive amount of detailing given the price, and the sleek mid-century bracelet elicits big love for Seiko’s simple style. £2,350. At seikoboutique.co.uk
- 3/29
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
The subplot to this particular Moonwatch – arguably the GOAT when it comes to tool watches – is not the subdials for once. It’s the fact that the dial has been fashioned out of Omega’s 18K Sedna Gold. That pink gold dial successfully robs attention from its key feature, while the honed brushed and polished bracelet boasts OMEGA’s patented comfort release adjustment system (not that you’re taking it off anytime soon). £17,100. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 4/29
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
Roger Dubuis is forever pushing what we cast as the norm, which is to say why not view this lightweight, Lamborghini collab baller 45mm as everyday wristwear? One reason to refrain from doing so would be it’s such a conversation starter, you’d never be able to get anything else done. Adding to the green theme in 2024, few flex such fierce angles as this. Within the C-SMC carbon case lies a chronograph with flyback functionality and a mad myriad of colours – for added distraction. POA. At rogerdubuis.com
- 5/29
MB&F LM Sequential Flyback Platinum
For this new LM Sequential Flyback, somehow Max Busser and his team of mad scientists have trapped an entire mechanical metropolis under a vast domed sapphire crystal – and we are lost for words. With an atomic orange dial plate, this is a fully integrated, myriad-part dual chronograph system. Developed for MB&F, it allows multiple timing modes and yeah, we’re still bereft of appropriate words to describe it. So just look at it and marvel. €160,000. At mb&f.com
- 6/29
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper
Aye-aye, Skipper! TAG Heuer’s new panorama-like Glassbox design and TH20 06 calibre make the most of the Goldilocks-sized Carrera case, emphasising the dial art. The long-awaited reissue of the Skipper icon deserves every last one of the 39 millimetres with its colourful dial. Minty green and a sharp shade of orange-tinged red with a regatta-tricolour register at 9 works for us. We’re feeling the nautical vibes, set sail for the Caribbean, please. £5,900. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 7/29
Omega Speedmaster ’57
We could include the venerable Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch but then you'd miss out on the smaller Speedmaster ’57. A deep, almost mossy green sunburst dial in the slim 40.5mm case makes for a more 2023 look than the Moonwatch sixties-racing vibe. Inspired by the very first 1957 Speedmaster, this all-steel chrono balances unrivalled tool-watch providence and elegance. Paired with a classic flat-link bracelet and a high-tech Co-axial movement that deep green sure is captivating. £8,700. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 8/29
Breitling x Triumph Top Time
Breitling has a strong image of brawny watches and legendary pilot tools like the Navitimer, but we love this menthol-cool Top Time. The two-tone ice blue dial is a collaboration with Triumph Motorcycles and recalls the heyday of Café racers and British sixties cool. The fresh sunray brushed dial is complemented by twin rounded chrono registers in black and a vintage-styled rally strap. £4,950. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 9/29
Tissot PRX Chronograph
Tissot has made a big impact with its slim, curated PRX range, but this time we want bigger with the PRX Chronograph. It embodies the integrated bracelet charms we’ve grown to love, as has the 42mm case (quite literally), accentuating its angular nature. A slight increase in thickness combined with big rectangular pushers combines tough guy and party-fit vibes. A big thumbs up too for the brushed silver dial infused and gold details. £1,620. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 10/29
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer
We love Seiko for its value-added offerings, and there are a fair few chronographs in the locker, but none like this Speedtimer. The enigmatic dial is a jumbled-up version of a classic Panda, with a bewildering array of crowns and pushers adorning the case. It might look like Manga madness but is, in fact, an eminently capable solar-powered chronograph with separate, instrument-like registers that’ll record your favourite run down to a 1/100th second. Complex personified for £760. At jurawatches.co.uk
- 11/29
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Platinum
Sure, there are plenty of capable chronographs out there but this redesigned, evolved Cosmograph Daytona is the Daddy. New alternatives might have what it takes, but the intrinsic detail and new 4131 movement with its Chronergy escapement is hard to top. The reference 126506 has the still-perfect 40mm size of its predecessor, and those chestnut details and icy dial mean only one thing. This is the top of Rolex’s chronograph grail pyramid, with no list price and a case and bracelet from solid platinum. If you have to ask… POA. At rolex.com
- 12/29
Zenith Chronomaster Sport
We’ll see your Platinum Daytona and raise it with a Zenith Chronomaster Sport Sir. At the price, this is a seriously capable sports watch with stopwatch functionality at its best. And this Zenith delivers that within a dazzling 41mm case of solid rose gold playing to the details within the crisp white dial. All the right Zenith El Primero clues are here, including the sartorial move of tricolour registers and a Zenith Star at 12. Playing a more casual tune than the Daytona on a soft calf leather strap. £18,700. At zenith-watches.com
- 13/29
Grand Seiko Tentagraph
We won’t beat around the bush – this is the Japanese alternative to the Daytona, with a deep blue dial that will draw you into its depths. The Tentagraph is the first mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph and comes with a high-beat 9SC5-calibre in an angular 43.2mm case. Now that might seem beefy, but the darker tone comes from high-intensity titanium, weighing a full 30% less than steel. Intricate, tough, comfortable and very much Grand Seiko. £12,500. At grand-seiko.com
- 14/29
IWC Pilot’s Chronograph 41mm
For many the IWC brand epitomises the Pilot’s Watch, in all its fighter-pilot-daydream splendour. Known for its big case tool-emphasis on legibility, over the last couple of years their range in the smaller 41mm size has grown, and this might be the deep blue pick of the bunch. A solitary pop of red at 6 o’clock is an enjoyable small detail in a function-packed blue instrument scene. Teutonic tool chic on big-stitched blue strap for £6,650. At goldsmiths.co.uk
- 15/29
Patek Philippe 5924 G
Patek Philippe does chronographs differently, tending to lean on deep-seated traditions. This year it dropped this large pilot’s watch in white gold in what was a very unexpected move. As any Patek is wont to do, it commands your – or any other’s – attention with a navy leather strap and downplayed blue sunburst dial. Exquisite detailing in white gold adorns a busy dial that includes a useful GMT function and calendar. Bold-for-Patek numerals make this the ABC of legibility in a 42mm case. POA. At patek.com
- ©16/29
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
VC's Overseas has come out of the shadows as the connoisseur’s alternative to the Royal Oak and Nautilus. That means Overseas has become (even more) sought-after, and it doesn’t take more than a brief glance at the new pink gold version to understand the appeal. We feel dangerously drawn to the allure of the deep blue dial, add a slim 13.7mm case and we’re sold. Even with three strap choices included, we’d still rather not remove the royally sleek, solid gold bracelet. £POA. vacheron-constantin.com
- 17/29
Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman
This Breitling is neither vintage-inspired nor petite, with its summer-fresh and turquoise-tinged 44mm case. A beast, yet what if we tell you it’s the lightest of the lot we have featured? Unbelievably, the Breitlight composite case weighs a feather-like 67 grams on its rubber strap, making this a killer combo of Ironman-tough collab with wearable comfort. £2,950. At breitling.com
- 18/29
Farer Chrono-Classic Swann
The sartorial chic of the Chrono-Classic is true to British brand Farer’s style. Picking up the trend of rich-coloured dials it has a vintage vibe with a warm twist. In a trio of top tier chronographs, our fave is the lush magenta. A tribute to historic Olympic champion Sidney Swann, the dial has a velvety sunray finish. With its new, scalloped case design and dashes of colour, Farer’s top top-tier trio is fitted with a Dubois Dépraz DD2022 calibre. £2,195. farer.com
- 19/29
Boss Steer Chronograph
With monochrome cool, Boss has upped their watch game. The brushed dial signals industrial minimalism with classic vertical registers, and the understated Steer chronograph is a well-priced alternative to Swiss luxury sports. This contemporary and minimalist design is rendered in grey for the angular cushion case, with the same finish on a suave integrated bracelet. A great entry ticket to the hot market for integrated bracelet-cool, the Steer Chronograph tugs at our sartorial heartstrings. £449. beaverbrooks.co.uk
- 20/29
Undone Vintage Killy
In just six years, Undone has created a strong following for its customisable watch brand. A current standout model for the company is the Vintage Killy. The rarest of beasts, it is a dress chronograph with numerous style nods to chronographs from the mid-20th century. The elegant 40mm steel case is just 12mm high, including the domed crystal, and houses a Seiko quartz flyback chronograph movement. The cream dial features delicate red and blue highlights, vintage typefaces, three hands from the centre and dual chronograph counters at 12 and six o’clock. As with all Undone watches, certain tweaks can be made to colours and case design using the online customiser, allowing buyers to make the watch completely their own. £229. undone.com
- 21/29
Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope
With its Bauhaus-influenced design philosophy, Junghans' colour combination of black and white is an obvious choice and nowhere is it more appropriate than in this 2020 Max Bill Chronoscope automatic model. The slim, stainless-steel case has an anthracite PVD coating and the lack of bezel means the matte-white dial looks larger than its 40mm, while the black hands, Arabic numerals and day/date – placed at three o'clock in perfect symmetry to the brand logo at nine – are all high-contrast and extremely legible. The outer minute track and chronograph subdials, both in a charcoal shade, are complemented by the soft grey calf-leather strap. £1,740. junghans.de
- 22/29
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink
The latest collaboration between Hublot and long-time brand ambassador Lapo Elkann and his design studio, Garage Italia, is a gorgeous and unique take on all things pink. Created in what Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe refers to as “a unique colour”, the shade is hard to define, ranging from salmon to pink grapefruit, with the aim of breaking traditional colour codes and making the shade more unisex. The 42mm, satin-finished, anodised aluminium case is a product of Hublot’s metallurgy department and houses a Unico column-wheel chronograph. The watch is supplied with a rubber and a fabric strap, both of which feature Hublot’s quick-release “One Click” system. Just 200 pieces will be made. £17,300. hublot.com
- 23/29
Geckota W-02 Vintage mechanical chronograph
Geckota is a British watch brand founded by the managing director of e-commerce store WatchGecko, with the aim of creating high-quality timepieces and making them available at an accessible price. The latest introduction from the company is the W-02 Vintage chronograph that is directly inspired by 1950s and 1960s military chronographs. Lashings of lume make the dial readable in all light conditions and the two chrono counters provide a minute counter at three o’clock and running seconds at nine. Inside the 37mm steel case is a Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. £299. geckota.com
- Fotostudio224/29
Hamilton Chrono-Matic 50
In 2019, the world of horology celebrated the anniversary of the automatic chronograph, an innovation introduced 50 years ago. While the Zenith El Primero stands as the most successful single-brand effort, a second movement, developed by a consortium of brands, was also launched in 1969 – albeit a modular rather than an integrated calibre. The group consisted of Heuer, Breitling, chronograph specialist Dépraz & Co and Hamilton-Büren. In recognition of the 50-year milestone of the movement, Hamilton has released the gloriously retro Chrono-Matic 50. Based on a successful design from the Seventies, this 48.5 x 51.5mm has a power reserve of 60 hours and a quick-change date function. £2,195. hamiltonwatch.com
- 25/29
Bremont Jaguar D-Type Limited Edition
In 1955, Jaguar set out to create 100 D-Type sports cars. Only 75 were made at the time, but now the company has committed to produce the remaining 25 vehicles. In light of this goal and to celebrate the beauty of the triple Le Mans-winning D-type, Bremont has introduced a 300-piece, limited-edition chronograph. The blue dial features two brushed nickel sub-dials and an outer tachymeter ring. A generous, 43mm, three-piece case holds an automatic movement with an oscillating weight in the shape of a Jaguar steering wheel. Further motoring references are in the crown, which is engraved with a vintage Dunlop tyre pattern and topped with an enamelled period Jaguar logo. £5,495. bremont.com
- Andy Cahill26/29
Christopher Ward C3 Grand Tourer
One of our favourite models to join the CW C3 Grand Tourer family gives a firm nod to the UK, thanks to its British Racing Green livery. The sun ray-effect dial has two chronograph subdials with a black sun ray finish at three and nine o’clock, applied Arabic numerals and a tachymeter scale on the outer edge. Further motor racing cues can be found in the piston-shaped chronograph pushers and double flag engraving on the caseback. Within the 39mm, stainless-steel case, which is water-resistant to 30 metres, beats a Swiss-made quartz movement. The quick-release strap allows owners to change the look of their timepiece quickly and without the need for special tools. £395. christopherward.co.uk
- 27/29
Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph
Montblanc’s Heritage line is inspired by the finest Swiss movements and the competitively priced Monopusher Chronograph is no exception. Delightfully vintage in styling, a domed, silvery dial is adorned with dark, applied Arabic numerals and dot indexes, 30-minute and 60-second chronograph counters and a retro Montblanc logo. At 42mm, the watch is a decent size and the single chronograph pusher within the crown, makes for a clean, streamlined silhouette. Available on a sfumato alligator leather strap, the piece is given an extra touch of elegance when worn on a steel Milanese mesh bracelet. £4,400. montblanc.com
- 28/29
G-Shock Carbon Core Guard G-Steel ref GST-B200G-2AER
Still undeniably cool, 38 years after its introduction, Casio’s G-Shock – in all its iterations – is a watchmaking tour de force and one of the latest additions is to the analogue/digital hybrid G-Steel family of watches. The new watch has a brass and black finish and features a stopwatch function measuring one thousandth of a second for the first 60 minutes and then tenth of a second. Equipped with a host of functions, including Bluetooth connectivity, this solar-powered watch is reinforced with a carbon core structure for improved strength and shock resistance, making it as robust as one would expect from this brand. £349. g-shock.co.uk
- 29/29
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date
A staple of the Vintage Collection, the latest limited-edition (100 pieces of each) versions of the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date are inspired by the hues of the landscape surrounding the Glashütte factory and feature dials in green and grey ombre – an effect Glashütte refers to as “degrade”, that is achieved through applying layers of lacquer before heating to super-high temperatures. Housed in a stainless-steel case an automatic movement powers the chronograph indicators that include a central stop seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour counters with flyback mechanism. A small second, power reserve display and signature large date aperture complete the watch face. £10,700. glashuette-original.com
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