It’s strange to think Zenith might not be around today – certainly not as a high-end watchmaker – if it weren’t for a man hiding tools, machinery and records of a manufacturing process in an attic for a decade.
That man was senior engineer Charles Vermot and the tools in question – deemed surplus to requirement in the ’80s amid the dreaded Quartz Crisis – were those used to make Zenith’s El Primero killer movement, and it's no exaggeration to say Vermot helped keep mechanical watches alive, and without his attic antics, icons like the Rolex Daytona might not exist in 2023. Unsurprisingly, the attic now acts as a museum to retell the tale.
Zenith CEO Julien Tornare says one day his dream is to make a movie out of the story. So naturally we debate which A-lister would be a good fit to play Vermot. “He has to learn the Swiss accent,” he jokes.
Since Tornare took over from legend clockmaker Jean-Claude Biver in 2017, Zenith has been one of the biggest movers in the weird and wonderful world of watches.
“I'm super happy about it, and I can only agree because we’ve come quite far in six years ago. We’ve really worked very hard on the fundamentals,” says Tornare. “We are a brand that has a long heritage so it's reassuring for people to know we’ve been here for 158 years and that we're part of LVMH. Then we have this very authentic aspect, which we should not underestimate because younger watch lovers do their research – they want to understand what's behind the brand, what's behind the movement, what's behind the price. We are the nice guy.”
The unveiling of the Chronomaster Sport in 2021 was something of an ‘IT’ moment with the buzz around it reaching new audiences, thrilling those who knew all about Zenith’s heritage and putting the brand back on the map.
“The Chronomaster Sport was a big wake-up call for the watch community and for our partners,” says Tornare. “I still remember when we launched it the number of calls and emails I received in the following days was just insane.”
People love a sporty chronograph and this one really hit the spot. And it was back-to-back bangers as in 2022 the introduction of the Defy Skyline cemented Zenith in the eye of many beholders as a watch brand to not only take note of, but to invest cash in. “It meant that everyone was much more ready and welcoming to the newcomer after the Defy Skyline,” adds Tornare.
Of the four watchmakers showing at LVMH Watch Week, Zenith is probably the least known in the mainstream. Everyone knows TAG Heuer – be it the big Ryan Gosling billboards in airports or seeing it on Max Verstappen’s world championship-winning F1 overalls, it’s impossible not to spot Hublot at a football match, and Bulgari has prestige in hotels and jewellery before quickly establishing itself as a manifester of sophisticated watches.
That’s not to undermine Zenith’s status in the stable though, on the contrary. Indeed, its recent success is likely the product of not being a household name outside of Switzerland, but at the same having 158 years of heritage and watch skills. As well as the attic, its manufacturer in Le Locle boasts some serious history – it’s a thing of beauty too and all movements have always been created under the same roof, and they continue to be today.
That includes Zenith’s 2023 novelties. Tornare et al are clearly plugged into the zeitgeist because smaller-sized watches, colourful dials, and gems are very in at the moment, and look what Zenith has – a host of Defy Skylines in 36mm, in blue (the same as last year), dusty pink and pastel green, available with or without white diamonds on the bezel.
For a wrist that’s used to wearing anything between 38mm and 45mm watches, you’d be pleasantly surprised to see how these Defy Skylines fit as they have a certain thickness that works proportionally for a lot of wrist sizes. We needn’t mention the ‘U’ word (unisex) but these are a total vibe. Pink or green? Diamond bezel or not? are the pressing questions. And the ease with which you can alternate between bracelet and rubber strap (all come with both) sounds minor but it genuinely gives the impression that you’re bagging two watches – such is the difference in what they look like, sport or more dressy. It’s possible to change from bracelet to strap in under 10 seconds, not that anyone’s timing or anything. Look closely and you’ll see the dial has a starry pattern engraved on it, which is a subtle reference to Zenith’s motto ‘Time to reach your star’ as well as its old ‘double Z’ logo from the ’60s. Such nods to history on a very modern-looking watch is textbook Zenith – always understated and subliminal but IYKYK.
Also added to the Defy Skyline family is a new Skeleton, which was purposely held back by a year (“because we had big demand, we were limited in production”) – a decision Tornare said paid off. In either blue or black (we’re digging the black), this one is a proper hunk at an angular 41mm in stainless steel. Taking cues from modern cityscapes, the skeleton dial feels genuinely very legible while still showing off its iconic El Primero engine with a chunky crown and the signature star featuring too – very much in the sporty steel ballpark.
There’s also a boutique two-tone version of the Defy Skyline, which means it’s Zenith’s way of testing the waters with a limited run on a piece. Our hot take is that, like the rest of the new pieces, it is piping hot – so if you haven’t already, you’d better get used to Zenith watches being bangers only.
