Climbing the first steps of the horological ladder with one of the best watches which also happens to be relatively attainable is one thing, but once you're hooked, the virtual rabbit hole of watch desire will beckon you in – so be careful. Spending tens of thousands might look like the norm on Instagram, but believe us, there are big bangs for your buck to be had for less than the £5K mark – from some Swiss royalty to the British tool watch elite, with a touch of Japanese hand-polished bling.
Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase
Green is a strong contender for colour of the year, especially when you look at this Classic Moonphase Date, which delicately straddles the line between classicism and clean cut modernity. The deep green dial frames a blue calendar and moon phase at 6, set within a balanced steel case of 40mm. £3,495. At frederiqueconstant.com
Bremont Terra Nova Chronograph
Industry alchemist Davide Cerrato is Bremont's new big dog and his first big hit is the new Terra Nova. There’s a lot to unpack – like a brand new Bremont Logo and a big, angular cushion case that speaks to a newfound language. Surprisingly, this tool watch is rendered in 904L steel, a more precious variant that rocks a proper vintage aesthetic. £4,700. At bremont.com
Breitling Navitimer 41
The storied Navitimer is the tool watch numero uno for pilots and the first Swiss watch in Space. Those are some big shoes to fill when it comes to nailing new iterations, and Breitling makes it look easy with this all-black version. Still sporting its recognisable GMT functionality in and around the dial, there are some distinct pops of red that really do it for us. £4,850. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Tudor Black Bay 41
Are we seeing a strong but curated game from Tudor this year? With just the right omission of vintage lume and gilt, the Black Bay OG 41mm was one of only three new releases. And really, it shouldn’t be all that exciting. But it surprises with a slimmed-down case and offers massive bang for less than £4K – especially when you think about how much it’ll cost to get hold of a new Rolex Submariner. £3,910. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Norqain Wild One Skeleton
Given Norqain’s so big on lightness and tech, the Mach10-speed trajectory of the brand is not surprising. Its Wild One is pretty much the poster child for Swiss future-proof watchmaking, especially the ones in a black Norteq carbon composite case. And a tough 200m depth rating makes the orange 42mm version a top summer choice. £4,550. At jurawatches.co.uk
Longines Flyback Titanium
The new 42mm Flyback version of the Longines Spirit Titanium puts it at the top of its tool watch food chain for techy-cool reasons. If your winter fit is of the monochrome variety, the darker tone of bafflingly lightweight titanium with a smattering of gold details is worth maxing out the budget for. The bright red tip of the chronograph seconds hand will come in dead handy as the flyback function makes it snap back instantly to time another lap. And perhaps something more significant than your mate’s run to the bar for a second or third round of drinks. £5,000. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton
Orient Star has the top-tier and under-radar image Grand Seiko was known for a decade ago, offering big value at affordable prices. In many ways the M34 F8 Skeleton – with its hand-wound in-house movement – is best in class. At this budget, the captivating intricacies of an openworked movement is as unusual as the M34 F8 will be a conversation-starter like few others. Especially when you count in its 39mm sleek case with a 10.8mm thickness and 70 hours of power reserve. £2,759.99. At orientwatch.co.uk
Omega De Ville Prestige Co-Axial Master Chronometer
Moonwatches, MoonSwatches and whopping big dive watches that only Dwayne Johnson could pull off on his totem wrists. That is the image of Omega this year, but hey! Here’s a hidden treasure of rich, deep red minimalism, still sporting a co-axial METAS-certed movement, with big presence. A clean dial with feuille hands emphasizes a delightfully on-the-nose festive colour, right down to the discreet date window. £4,800. At goldsmiths.co.uk
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
Sure, we love the new glassbox design of the smaller Carrera (it was one of the best watches of 2023) and topping our budget, the rainbow-edged retro blue of the 42mm Chronograph dial is delicious. In fact the sweeping circle has a newfound dynamic in its vibrant sweep from yellow to a searing red that matches the central seconds hand. We’re all for this unusual combo of modern-sized comfort paired with vintage-cool, and colours, those colours! £5,000. At goldsmiths.co.uk
Grand Seiko 44GS Quartz
After opening its showroom in Paris a year ago, Grand Seiko now has a deserved place in the upper echelons of European watch retail. With a 40mm bold case design and spectacular dial art, the SBGP017 has a sky-blue dial to die for. Enjoy the deep feeling of Japanese craftsmanship for a very reasonable £3,260. grand-seiko.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
Cartier Tank
There is a lot to be said for the incessant rise of Cartier, and we applaud it. The small-cased chic of this calibre is frankly unbeatable. The Tank Must Solarbeat is your unstoppable (solar power, get it?) ticket to Tyler, The Creator’s suave look underlined by his love of French wrist-glam. £2,530, cartier.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
Raymond Weil Freelancer
The Freelancer range from Raymond Weil is a great stepping stone to the world of Swiss premium watches, and our fave might just be the new blue Skeleton. With an open-worked dial you would only expect from top-tier Swiss brands, consider this your ticket to haute horology. £2,595, raymond-weil.co.uk & goldsmiths.co.uk
IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX
IWC’s Pilot’s Watch is here shown in its purest, monochrome form. The 40mm case is timeless and tough on a tapered black leather strap with bold stitching. The Mark XX is legible in the dimmest of lights through liberal doses of Super-Luminova, while the polished bezel and hands gives it an unexpected yet very assured elegance. Worth stretching the budget by a bullseye to £5,050 for this one. iwc.com & goldsmiths.co.uk
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea
If you haven’t heard about the forgotten technique called gratté-boisé, one look at the dial and you’ll be smitten. As if capturing the arctic sky seen through a frozen telescope, Montblanc has added a fresh touch to what is a classic sports watch with a tapering steel bracelet and tough diver’s spec. Between blue, green and black, we'll go for the latter. £2,785, montblanc.com
Bell and Ross BR-05
Inextricably linked to big, bold pilot’s instruments for the wrist, Bell and Ross surprised us with the BR-05. A French, chic alternative to Genta grail charm, off the beaten monochrome path with a rich copper/toned dial. We like this squircular take on seventies chic with a sunset dial. £4,300, bellross.com & jurawatches.co.uk
